- I am 5'10" and 160lbs; I'm a cyclist, so my upper body is pretty slim. I'm a 38 in a suit.
- I've gotten my shirts from Jantzen (about a dozen) and have been very satisfied given the price; I plan to order my next shirts from them as well.
- I have a long neck, which hopefully you can see in the photos below
- I like the collar to sit just under the lapel
- I usually go for a full windsor given the spread of the collar I have been wearing.
- I prefer a woven fabric tie over printed (a la Ferragamo)
I'd like to get your advice on a couple of questions. I have posted below photos of two shirts - the one with the blue tie is from my most recent Jantzen order (I took it after I got home for the work - sorry for all the wrinkles), and the one without a tie is one I picked up in Italy made by Shirt Factory Company or SFC (never could find anything about them) and labeled as "slim fit."
- Fit of the body - how slim do you recommend? I am inclined to go for a slimmer fit, closer to that of the second shirt, which is about 3" larger around the waist than I am, versus the Jantzen, which is about 5". And is there any way to keep the shirt from pooching out at the waist when tucked into pants?
- Back darts (on the SFC shirt) or no back darts?
- Fit of the arms - how slim should I go? The SFC has a much smaller arm hole and the sleeves are similarly tapered.
- What is the opinion of the spread on the Jantzen collar? More? Less? Just right?
- I can never seem to get my tie and collar to sit quite right. I gave a double-button collar, but there is always a gap, and sometimes the collar will even roll forward a bit. Also, the tie never sits right at the top of the collar - it always comes down a little bit. How can I prevent that gap from appearing (I order the collars without a tie space), and get the tie to sit right? An example of the tie sitting higher is here from another member: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v178/gdl203/IMG00217-20111117-0945.jpg.
- Any other fit or design recommendations?
Thanks in advance to all who take the time to read and reply.
Apologies for the sub-par photography.