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Exposed waist: Your general thoughts

post #1 of 18
9/11/12 at 7:19am
Thread Starter 
What are your thoughts on exposed shirt/tie/waistband below the buttoning point on today’s slimmer suits with lower-rise trousers?

Flusser seems to hate this, and I understand that it has long been a faux pas with formal and semi-formal wear. But it seems rather unavoidable with a trim suit—your only mitigation strategies would be higher-rise trousers (incongruent with the overall look), or a vest (not always wanted or needed; presents fit problems of its own w/o luxury of bespoke).

What do you all think?
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post #2 of 18
9/11/12 at 7:29am
Not a fan. But I do prefer a somewhat fuller cut and higher rise.
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post #3 of 18
9/11/12 at 8:16am
Thread Starter 
With a full-cut, I agree. But a trimmer cut is another story. ...
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post #4 of 18
9/11/12 at 8:56am

A rise that reaches the bottom button of the coat isn't incompatible with trim cut, and no shirt/tie should show... pants worn lower than that just throw off the proportions of the jacket IMO.

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post #5 of 18
9/11/12 at 9:16am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

A rise that reaches the bottom button of the coat isn't incompatible with trim cut, and no shirt/tie should show... pants worn lower than that just throw off the proportions of the jacket IMO.

You are correct, but the bottom button isn't buttoned. This means that a rise that reaches such point will only prevent shirt from showing if the quarters are also relatively closed, something that many forum members have not been too fond of in the past if memory serves me.

I
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post #6 of 18
9/11/12 at 9:21am

The quarters usually start to open more aggresively below the bottom button. So even though it's not buttoned, shirt and tie should still not show when standing straight. If they do, there isn't enough space for your lower torso in the jacket and the quarters are opening more than they were meant to. Some people like that look, though.

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post #7 of 18
9/11/12 at 9:25am
Can you post a pic? I'm not smart enough to grasp this.
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post #8 of 18
9/11/12 at 9:36am
You need a fairly low buttoning point if you want to ensure no tie or shirt shows between the fronts.
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post #9 of 18
9/11/12 at 9:48am
No, you just need a higher rise.
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post #10 of 18
9/11/12 at 9:57am
No, you just want to shape the edge of the fronts differently and fit the jacket for a bit of overlap on the lower button, regardless of the trouser
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post #11 of 18
9/11/12 at 10:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cant kill da Rooster View Post

Can you post a pic? I'm not smart enough to grasp this.

 

 

 

 

Something like this. Okay, this is not slim, but you could have more waist suppression and a trimmer cut overall and still have the quarters overlap at the lower button, without them being closed quarters.

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post #12 of 18
9/11/12 at 10:20am
ah...agree with Sven.
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post #13 of 18
9/11/12 at 10:26am
Thread Starter 
This is the exposed waist that I was originally referencing, and which I find to be endemic of so many "modern" suit cuts.

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post #14 of 18
9/11/12 at 10:39am

The hand in the pocket has much to do with how much shirt and tie is showing there, but anyways that's not just a slim jacket, that's a too tight jacket...

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post #15 of 18
9/11/12 at 10:43am
Thread Starter 
^ You are right, but this picture is meant to be purely illustrative, and also demonstrates the exposed portion of waist in question.
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