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MTM Tuxedo, help me make sure I'm all set

post #1 of 34
Thread Starter 

So I'm attempting the Indochino Tuxedo thing (bought the deal through The Daily Hookup) and just want to make sure I'm choosing the "correct" options.  [And please try to refrain from telling me how terrible IC is . . . I'm willing to give them a try, and for someone on a pretty strict budget at the moment this deal is pretty great (tuxedo shirt will come with the deal and whatnot]

 

Black, single breasted dinner jacket

  • 1 Button
  • Peak lapel
  • No flaps on pockets
  • Possible double vent (vs. no vent . . . I know this is "correct", but I have a rather large muscular behind, and a ventless jacket can tend to hug it tightly, even if sized "up" appropriately (or will otherwise look too billowy . . . so I'm not sure, thinking the double vent even though it's not "traditional")
  • Functional boutonniere 

 

Black pants

  • Flat front
  • Suspender/Braces buttons
  • ?Side tabs (I've heard these can interfere with the pants looking "sleek" or "streamlined", but they may also help the pants be a little more "flexible/versatile" in the future, should I happen to slightly change waist/hip size . . . seems like decent insurance, no?  Additionally, even though the pants are "MTM", I'm not sure how well they'll be able to capture the fact that my butt is a good bit bigger than my waist and if the pants end up fitting me in the seat they may still be loose around the waist . . . the side tabs could help remedy that)
  • No cuffs/no belt loops

 

 

I'll also be choosing higher armholes/lower button stance/reduced shoulder padding.

 

Am I missing anything here?  Or making any huge mistakes.  I think I'm probably set mostly, but would like to have some input on the vents and side tabs issue in particular. 

 

Thanks guys.

 

Edit: I'll be wearing a self-tie black silk bowtie, and probably going with a cummerbund (groomsmen will wear black vests since they all happen to think the colorful vest/four-in-hand is standard fare and aren't too keen on wearing a cummerbund with their bowtie).  I like the look especially when the jacket is on (I realize a true waistcoat should hardly show through, if at all, but it's hard enough to find a good one anyway).  

 

And do I wear white braces?  I plan on keeping my jacket on most of the night.


Edited by BackInTheJox - 9/8/12 at 9:28pm
post #2 of 34
Thread Starter 

Forgot about the tuxedo shirt.  It will be:

 

  • White
  • Spread laydown collar
  • Pleats probably (although undecided about width, any suggestions?)
post #3 of 34
Quote:
(groomsmen will wear black vests since they all happen to think the colorful vest/four-in-hand is standard fare and aren't too keen on wearing a cummerbund with their bowtie)

 

So you are the groom? I don't recommend having the groomsmen wearing four-in-hand ties with colorful vests. You seem to be trying hard to do real black tie, but you are going to have your groomsmen looking like they are going to the prom. Since they are already wearing tuxedos, what is the big deal about going one step further with a cummerbund and bow tie?

 

As far as for selection, it sounds good. What are you doing for lapel facing? Is there an option for grosgrain vs. satin finish? Some consider grosgrain the more appropriate facing for peak lapels. Since you are doing MTM, you should be able to get this easily enough. Also, a vest is more often paired with a jacket with peak lapels, while a cummerbund is often paired with a shawl lapel jacket. It is very difficult to find a decent vest, but since you are doing MTM, you should be able to get one for not too much more. Just make sure it has 3 buttons and is mostly not visible through a buttoned jacket.

 

White or black suspenders are fine, but, as you said, no one should see them with the jacket on.

 

What are you doing for shoes?

post #4 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

 

So you are the groom? I don't recommend having the groomsmen wearing four-in-hand ties with colorful vests. You seem to be trying hard to do real black tie, but you are going to have your groomsmen looking like they are going to the prom. Since they are already wearing tuxedos, what is the big deal about going one step further with a cummerbund and bow tie?

 

As far as for selection, it sounds good. What are you doing for lapel facing? Is there an option for grosgrain vs. satin finish? Some consider grosgrain the more appropriate facing for peak lapels. Since you are doing MTM, you should be able to get this easily enough. Also, a vest is more often paired with a jacket with peak lapels, while a cummerbund is often paired with a shawl lapel jacket. It is very difficult to find a decent vest, but since you are doing MTM, you should be able to get one for not too much more. Just make sure it has 3 buttons and is mostly not visible through a buttoned jacket.

 

White or black suspenders are fine, but, as you said, no one should see them with the jacket on.

 

What are you doing for shoes?

 

 

Oh no, I'm not having them wear 4-in-hands.  Sorry for the confusion.  I am the groom indeed, BTW.  They'll wearing black bowties with black vests.  The issue is just that they all personally prefer the vests (and two of them already got married wearing a terrible colored vest + four-in-hand).  

 

I prefer grossgrain for the lapels, but I believe IC only has silk, which I suppose will do.  Good point about the vest/peak and cummerbund/shawl . . . I agree that'd be ideal.  The vest options with Indochino don't seem very good, as they all button very highly and would be about as visible as the run-of-the-mill prom tuxedo vests you see all too often.  I've considered going the Brooks Brothers route for the vest, since I believe they have an appropriately low-cut vest.  Would a cummerbund be a major no-no, or just going against the usual recommended pairing?  

 

Can't believe I skipped over the shoes.  So, at this point I'm not sure I can justify purchasing patent leather oxfords (I'm not into the opera pumps, classic as they may be).  I plan on wearing my tux to a few more weddings in the coming 1 1/2 years, but in an attempt (perhaps futile) to avoid being confused for being part of the wedding parties (and as an excuse to justify a new shoe purchase that I would actually get significant mileage outside of tux wearing), I was thinking of buying a pair of AE Vernons:

 

 

 

They're billed by AE as exactly what I described . . . a shoe for true formal/semi-formal occasions, but that can be "dressed down" a bit to be used elsewhere.  As it stands, the only black balmoral I own is a pair of Johnston & Murphy Meltons, which are fine journeyman shoes, but I'd kinda like to spruce my shoe collection up with something else.  I realize they're expensive and that's a bit counter-intuitive when it comes to my self-proclaimed "tight budget", but they should be on sale later this month for the "Rediscover America" sale.  Last year they were $276, and I have a $35 off gift card, which would bring them down to $240.  If it's for a pair of shoes I can wear with suits and such after the wedding(s), I might be willing to do that.

 

The other (and cheaper) possibility is this pair of Florsheim patent leather shoes:

http://www.florsheim.com/shop/style/12063-004.html

 

They're half the price of the Vernons (when the Vernons are on sale + gift card), but I like the overall look less, and the other obvious problem is that I will not get much use out of them beyond my wedding (and maybe the other weddings I will be attending).  I'd prefer to invest in a pair of shoes I'll wear more, if that's what it comes to.

 

I'm open to any and all suggestions and criticisms about my plan.  That's why I'm here.  And thanks again for your input so far!

post #5 of 34
Personally I don't like any kind of cap on a shoe with a tuxedo. Those AEs just look too much like business shoes. But then I like pumps with bows most of all so...I guess I'm just a little old fashioned in that regard.

A cummerbund is totally fine. Much better than a bad vest. Especially ok if it's summer, but ok in winter too. But you can't just get any old black vest and assume it will match your black tuxedo.
post #6 of 34
Thread Starter 

Yeah the presence of a cap (well, sort of a cap) on the Vernon was my only hesitancy . . . I'd probably prefer plan toed, and if I could find a whole-cut plain toe calfskin bal for $245 I'd jump on it in a heartbeat.  I'm a fairly young guy (turning 30 next month), so personally I think the opera pumps don't jive for me (and as much as I try to adhere to traditions and such, the opera pump is one thing I just don't see myself adopting anytime too soon).  I'm not sure what other options to consider at this point.  I don't currently own a black shoe that would even be passable for a tuxedo shoe other than the J&M captoes (which polish up nicely because they're corrected grain, but they're obviously a captoe).  

 

As for the vest vs. cummerbund, the tux I'm getting can be made with a matching vest; however, it's the vest that's way too high.  You're exactly right about the BB/any other brand waistcoat not necessarily matching the tux.  That (in addition to the other reasons I've mentioned previously) is why I am gonna go with a cummerbund.  It is a June wedding, so no problem there.

post #7 of 34
I'd recommend just going with the cummerbund. Regarding the pumps, I'm 31, so you don't have to be old to wear them. You can get them less pumpy and more slippery. Check it:

http://belgianshoes.com/mrcasual-evening.html#

vs

http://belgianshoes.com/henri-patent.html
post #8 of 34
Also I just uncovered this excellent post by Vox on the subject:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/73050/opera-pumps-show-me-your-real-world-pics/30#post_1207063
post #9 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Regarding the pumps, I'm 31, so you don't have to be old to wear them. You can get them less pumpy and more slippery. Check it:
http://belgianshoes.com/mrcasual-evening.html#
vs
http://belgianshoes.com/henri-patent.html

 

I do appreciate the suggestions/links; however, I won't be going with pumps for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is the fact that I unfortunately cannot afford to spend that kind of money on a pair of shoes so specialized that they will get almost no further wear.  I do agree that those pumps you linked are much more "masculine" than I had in mind, and maybe somewhere down the line when I have more disposable income I will make them a part of my wardrobe!

post #10 of 34
Well if you'll allow me to play devil's advocate just a little bit more devil.gif...

if you get velvet ones, I think they're quite smart to wear out in the evenings with more casual attire. Just an idea. If you wear shoes in regular calf, it's fine. Just polish them as shinily as you can.
post #11 of 34

There is no reason to actually purchase a tuxedo if you don't plan on buying real tuxedo shoes. At all, ever, no excuses, nada, zilch, fineto!

post #12 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Well if you'll allow me to play devil's advocate just a little bit more devil.gif...
if you get velvet ones, I think they're quite smart to wear out in the evenings with more casual attire. Just an idea. If you wear shoes in regular calf, it's fine. Just polish them as shinily as you can.

 

Haha, I do kinda like that notion.  What I will say is that I have a good bit of time to mull it over between now and the wedding (next June).  If I do end up going with regular calf, I'll just polish them like crazy.

post #13 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Apollotrader View Post

There is no reason to actually purchase a tuxedo if you don't plan on buying real tuxedo shoes. At all, ever, no excuses, nada, zilch, fineto!

 

Eh, agree to disagree here.  Especially if your definition of "real tuxedo shoes" means strictly pumps.  

 

As for patent leather bals, I'd like to own a pair, but given the general attitude displayed on this forum and elsewhere that highly polished calfskin bals are a passable alternative, I'm willing to "bend" the traditional rules here (for my wedding, no less).  

 

In a vacuum, sure it'd be great to buy some nice "real tuxedo shoes."  But at this point I have already made my decision to purchase a relatively inexpensive tuxedo (for a variety of personal reasons) and will require a pair of shoes to go with it.  At this juncture, it would make little sense to then splurge on a pair of pumps.  Purists may be offended by that, but I also don't anticipate many of them attending my wedding.  It's sad to have to even mention the following, but since current groom/groomsen fashion is in such disrepair in the US right now, I will probably still end up head and shoulders above the typical American wedding fare.  And yes, I realize that by "bending rules", I am to a small degree contributing to this downward spiral.  

 

Gotta pick your battles, though.

post #14 of 34

Regarding the cummerbund vs. vest, the cummerbund is certainly acceptable, so no big deal there. I am just surprised that they are unable to alter the vest to your specifications, given that this is MTM.

 

If you don't want patent leather, you can always get these and polish them nicely:

http://www.kentwang.com/shoes/benchgrade-plaintoe-balmoral.html

 

Put some silk ribbon laces in there, and you will have a nice tuxedo shoe that does not look like a business shoe.

post #15 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

Regarding the cummerbund vs. vest, the cummerbund is certainly acceptable, so no big deal there. I am just surprised that they are unable to alter the vest to your specifications, given that this is MTM.

 

If you don't want patent leather, you can always get these and polish them nicely:

http://www.kentwang.com/shoes/benchgrade-plaintoe-balmoral.html

 

Put some silk ribbon laces in there, and you will have a nice tuxedo shoe that does not look like a business shoe.

 

Well, if you guys are familiar with Indochino, you can imagine that they're not necessarily the truest "MTM" in that the options seem to be limited with regards to certain customizations.  I suppose I could actually email customer service and inquire about that.

 

Those shoes are pretty damn sexy.  At retail they may be just a tad above my price range at the moment.

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