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The Hand Sewn Buttonhole Thread - Page 13

post #181 of 207
Not saying you're wrong to feel that way, but why?
post #182 of 207
Sometimes I double the thread. When not in the knot the strands are parallel. This I do with thinner threads. With button hole twist, then single. With jeans I don't want twist, so doubled thread. Then there is- gimp, twisted thread, twisted twist, twist doubled on the needle untwisted, or, the same with thread. So, a number of combinations. And, where do you want the knots? Between the layers of cloth, level with the gimp, or some other method, such as between gimp and cloth?
post #183 of 207
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

After the asola lucida buttonhole, I've always held Truzzi's holes the best-looking. Theirs is a rounded look though the individual stitches are fairly sparse.

After having stepped away from Truzzi RTW shirts due to having found a bespoke shirtmaker, I felt I missed their buttonholes and so went back to a shop selling Truzzi shirts to try some. Either they have changed the patterns or I have changed my approach to fit and found them to not fit me properly so I opted for the MTM service Truzzi offers through the retailer.

After having received the final shirt and having worn it for some time I can say that I am a bit disappointed and feel that the quality has decreased (au contraire, the price went up!). The fit was not perfect when new (I suspect the shop assistant misinterpreted some of the adjustment I suggested) but it even got worse after some washes because the shirt shrank (an I have older RTW Truzzi shirts that still fit me better than this one after many years of use), the buttonholes are far worse than they used to be, they do not offer their usual tall MOP buttons anymore but changed to a larger and thinner model that I do not like.

One thing that remained at the usual top-level is their incredible pattern matching.

All considered, I am very probably not going to buy a Truzzi anymore (and I am a bit sad about this...) but will stick to my actual shirtmaker (that I really appreciate and, in my view, offers a better quality at a lower price point than Truzzi).


Pictures (Click to show)




post #184 of 207

From today's outfit


post #185 of 207
Ah! -- shirts' buttonholes got accepted. How about this one? Still not sure if I like it or not quite...


post #186 of 207
It is the firs time I see a "rectangular" buttonhole, but I definitely appreciate it!
post #187 of 207
so- going to revive this thread with some of the buttonholes from my closet. I wonder, from the experts out there, what makes them look different from each other.

Brioni- I think Brioni has the best buttonholes out there- the way the 'keyhole' is done looks very unique. What are they doing in there?

The Hickey Freeman ones look spectacular and I don't know why my photography makes the lapel hole look so bad- it looks way better than that in person.

Kiton's buttonhole is unmistakable (although Isaia & Borrelli sometimes similar). Its kind of chunky and kind of shiny. Why do they do it that way?

Buttonhole from my tailor in Hong Kong, New Kingston Fashions (thanks to the recommendations of some very well respected commentators here). I think they are pretty good although I may get the the lapel one redone here. I wonder what separates them from the ones above? I think maybe they have less shine (different thread type?) or are less tightly sewn- or am I wrong?

RLPL by St Andrews- this is my favorite suit. These buttonholes look awesome- except for the sleeve buttonholes which were done by my alterations tailor in NJ and are completely shameful. Not sure if its worth having them redone... probably, but maybe not worth sitting through 50 min roundtrip of midtown traffic and then paying $80 to lose it for two weeks...

Tom Ford- I find it crazy that the Tom Ford jackets come with a Milanese buttonhole but completely ordinary machine made buttonholes everywhere else. TF is not cheap (although I thrifted it so not complaining too much)

What the hell is that stitching on the leather tab?

Had this done by Sam Wazin. Looks great, not too flashy but tight. He does an excellent Milanese but will only do it on his custom suits.

So, what makes some of these look better than others? Is it tighter stitching, thinner thread, shinier thread, different technique? I'm sure its a combination of the aforementioned, but looking for some analysis.
post #188 of 207

Thanks for posting all the pictures.


I'm no expert, so I have a comment that is really a question, and I mean this in a way to ask not to be a dick (I read far too many unnecessary posts).


The topic of this thread is hand sewn buttons holes. Nice button hole porn basically. I'm not sure, but I don't think all of the pictures you posted are hand sewn. The suits from Hickey Freeman definitely are not (either lapel or sleeves), and I don't think the Brioni keyhole style on the front of the jacket is either -  though the straight one on the lapel is (and is very nice).


Of the pictures you've posted the Brioni, Tom Ford and Wazin (possibly the Kiton but can't tell from the photo) are hand stitched.


And I don't think it's unusual to have the button holes stitched by machine. That's almost always the case I believe.


But I could be wrong, and I'm prepared to be corrected.

post #189 of 207
They are all hand sewn. The TF sleeve are not as noted. The HF lapel is a bad picture as noted.
post #190 of 207
Can I ask how you are sure? I didn't think the HFs would be hand sewn at all.
post #191 of 207
HF has a "Bespoke" line, which is above their mainline in quality. I believe it has gone by other names in the past but "Bespoke" is what mine is labeled. It is quite apparent that they are hand sewn when you see them in person.

As someone people may argue is a bit snobby with suits, I think Hickey Freeman makes a damn fine suit. Their mainline is great and this bespoke line is even better. Their fabrics and styles recently are much younger and more exciting (on top of being luxurious) and I highly recommend them across the board- and it makes me feel very proud of my country that we have such great tailoring here.

Only downside for me is just that the armholes and pants rise are a bit more typical of tailoring here...
post #192 of 207
Local tailors hand work.

post #193 of 207
Guess the tailor

Bonus waistcoat buttonhole pic
post #194 of 207
The Brioni buttonholes use a different kind of thread and gimp, and as they stitch around the keyhole they pull the knot a little differently- it's the same technique I use on my own buttonholes, and I'm in the process of showing the finishers at HF how to do them this way and we're ordering the same gimp and silk thread now. I think they look better.

I agree with the comment about the Tom Ford stuff and I was told it was a question of capacity- they didn't have enough skilled finishers to meet production demands.
post #195 of 207
I believe all the HF suits used to have hand-sewn buttonholes, certainly into the early '90's at least. Of course, they also had pleated curtained waistbands, hand set/sewn sleeves and collars, and all sorts of other handwork. Gradually, many of those went away. Not sure about the button holes at present.
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