The Hand Sewn Buttonhole Thread - Page 13
After having stepped away from Truzzi RTW shirts due to having found a bespoke shirtmaker, I felt I missed their buttonholes and so went back to a shop selling Truzzi shirts to try some. Either they have changed the patterns or I have changed my approach to fit and found them to not fit me properly so I opted for the MTM service Truzzi offers through the retailer.
After having received the final shirt and having worn it for some time I can say that I am a bit disappointed and feel that the quality has decreased (au contraire, the price went up!). The fit was not perfect when new (I suspect the shop assistant misinterpreted some of the adjustment I suggested) but it even got worse after some washes because the shirt shrank (an I have older RTW Truzzi shirts that still fit me better than this one after many years of use), the buttonholes are far worse than they used to be, they do not offer their usual tall MOP buttons anymore but changed to a larger and thinner model that I do not like.
One thing that remained at the usual top-level is their incredible pattern matching.
All considered, I am very probably not going to buy a Truzzi anymore (and I am a bit sad about this...) but will stick to my actual shirtmaker (that I really appreciate and, in my view, offers a better quality at a lower price point than Truzzi).
Pictures (Click to show)
Brioni- I think Brioni has the best buttonholes out there- the way the 'keyhole' is done looks very unique. What are they doing in there?
The Hickey Freeman ones look spectacular and I don't know why my photography makes the lapel hole look so bad- it looks way better than that in person.
Kiton's buttonhole is unmistakable (although Isaia & Borrelli sometimes similar). Its kind of chunky and kind of shiny. Why do they do it that way?
Buttonhole from my tailor in Hong Kong, New Kingston Fashions (thanks to the recommendations of some very well respected commentators here). I think they are pretty good although I may get the the lapel one redone here. I wonder what separates them from the ones above? I think maybe they have less shine (different thread type?) or are less tightly sewn- or am I wrong?
RLPL by St Andrews- this is my favorite suit. These buttonholes look awesome- except for the sleeve buttonholes which were done by my alterations tailor in NJ and are completely shameful. Not sure if its worth having them redone... probably, but maybe not worth sitting through 50 min roundtrip of midtown traffic and then paying $80 to lose it for two weeks...
Tom Ford- I find it crazy that the Tom Ford jackets come with a Milanese buttonhole but completely ordinary machine made buttonholes everywhere else. TF is not cheap (although I thrifted it so not complaining too much)
What the hell is that stitching on the leather tab?
Had this done by Sam Wazin. Looks great, not too flashy but tight. He does an excellent Milanese but will only do it on his custom suits.
So, what makes some of these look better than others? Is it tighter stitching, thinner thread, shinier thread, different technique? I'm sure its a combination of the aforementioned, but looking for some analysis.
Thanks for posting all the pictures.
I'm no expert, so I have a comment that is really a question, and I mean this in a way to ask not to be a dick (I read far too many unnecessary posts).
The topic of this thread is hand sewn buttons holes. Nice button hole porn basically. I'm not sure, but I don't think all of the pictures you posted are hand sewn. The suits from Hickey Freeman definitely are not (either lapel or sleeves), and I don't think the Brioni keyhole style on the front of the jacket is either - though the straight one on the lapel is (and is very nice).
Of the pictures you've posted the Brioni, Tom Ford and Wazin (possibly the Kiton but can't tell from the photo) are hand stitched.
And I don't think it's unusual to have the button holes stitched by machine. That's almost always the case I believe.
But I could be wrong, and I'm prepared to be corrected.
As someone people may argue is a bit snobby with suits, I think Hickey Freeman makes a damn fine suit. Their mainline is great and this bespoke line is even better. Their fabrics and styles recently are much younger and more exciting (on top of being luxurious) and I highly recommend them across the board- and it makes me feel very proud of my country that we have such great tailoring here.
Only downside for me is just that the armholes and pants rise are a bit more typical of tailoring here...
I agree with the comment about the Tom Ford stuff and I was told it was a question of capacity- they didn't have enough skilled finishers to meet production demands.