My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake? - Page 3

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reevolving 

Photos can be very deceptive.
People here will tell you pants that are too tight to function in real are "baggy" b/c they see one crease in your photo
You need to understand something about SF: Some people here don't actually dress up.
They are just internet people who never leave their basement and do not own dress clothing.
They are comparing your photos to artificial fashion model fits
(where the pins would pop off if the model bent over or raised his arms, or sat down)
You are dressing in the real world. So, if it feels like it fits, go with it.
Why the hell are you standing on grocery bags? That is the question.

This is good insight.  I do think there are a lot of people with way more experience than myself who can steer me in the right direction.  The suit felt slightly too baggy, not as much as I think I initially thought.

I think the shoulder was my biggest issue, and my tailor told me there is no easy way to shave off an inch off the shoulder without a lot of work.

I'm not looking for an tight fit, just a fit that allows me to move around but also so I don't look like a kid in adult clothing.

My wife's really particular about keeping the carpet clean, and I still need more of her measuring help on the remake, so better keep her happy.

You are obviously very experienced in SF and men's style, and I thought your comments on my pants are right on, I'm trying to figure out what to do to address them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tailorgod 

The most obvious issue is the sleeve pitch, which is hard to get right. Many customers are not aware that they hold their arms a little backwards.
In pattern making the reference point for a normal sleeve pitch is a point behind 1/3 to 1/2 of the front pocket opening, given that the jacket fits you reasonably well.
Based on personal experience, telling the manufacturers to lower the sleeve pitch often creates bigger problems than leaving it in it's original position.
Looking at your measurements, there isn't a big drop between chest and waist, and the 4" they added is pretty standard in MTM.
My advice would be to find an able alteration tailor and have the waist of the coat taken in on the side seams a bit (1 to 1,5" in total). That will help create a more tapered look.
Sleeves: Need to be rotated forward. Not an easy alteration (takes lot of skill and time) and therefore costly. While the sleeves are out, have the shoulders narrowed according to your taste.
Left sleeve needs to be a tad shorter.
Trousers: Length is obvious. Not sure about the waist, looks like the waist band is standing away a little in the back.
Judging by the deep folds in the seat area I guess the seat seam needs to be corrected. It's too high up, so all the cloth is sitting below the seat. I'd say that the front rise is fine, but the rear seat seam needs to be scooped out a bit, perhaps the waist band lowered in the back as well (to take out the extra length in the rear trousers).
Again, lots of work for an alteration tailor, plus he/ she needs to be very skilled and knowledgeable. If Indochino has an alteration (or remake) service, and you consider sending the suit back, do the following:
Pin away the excess cloth along the side seams, but make sure you don't create tension at the front button and create drags from there towards the back. Mark the amount you want the shoulders to be taken in, same with sleeve length (right one is ok).
Do mark the amount that the waistband needs to be tighter and pin away the excess cloth beneath the seat. Pin the hem to get the correct length.
BTW, many customers grab their coats at the centre front to show how large the coat is. It's only too large when you can do it without causing major distortion in other areas like back and seat (like you do).
Looking at the pictures I'd say that for an internet ordered suit it's not that bad. It's tough to get it right without having seen you.

Tailorgod wow, this is a great response, so much information to digest.

I spoke to my regular tailor yesterday, and she told me to take in 1.5" off the side seams around the chest area, she actually pinned it down and showed me, and I like the result very much. 

She didn't mention the issues around the sleeve pitch or the shoulder.  I found that a bit disappointing, maybe it's time for me to get another tailor, but I digress.

Here are some follow-up questions.

1. On the sleeve pitch, how much should I tell Indochino to rotate it forward(e.g. 10, 15 or 20 degrees)?

2. "Trouser: Length is obvious", how do you mean?  Should I decrease it by 1/2" or 1"?

3. How much shoulder reduction should I shoot for?  I'm thinking 1/2" on both ends resulting in 1" reduction in total.

4. How much reduction in sleeve length on the left and right? Sound like the right one is ok.  Will the shoulder reduction in question 3 result in sleeve reduction?

5. "rear seat seam needs to be scooped out a bit, perhaps the waist band lowered in the back as well".  I don't completely understand this sentence, do you recommend lower the seat seam by 1/2"?  and lower the waist band in addition by 1/2"?

As you can tell, I'm quite new at MTM suit process, so thank you for your patience.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Despos 

Quote:

Originally Posted by tailorgod 

Sleeves: Need to be rotated forward. Not an easy alteration (takes lot of skill and time) and therefore costly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by StormRider 

Quote:

Originally Posted by tailorgod 

Sleeves: Need to be rotated forward. Not an easy alteration (takes lot of skill and time) and therefore costly. While the sleeves are out, have the shoulders narrowed according to your taste.
Tailorgod wow, this is a great response, so much information to digest.
She didn't mention the issues around the sleeve pitch or the shoulder.  I found that a bit disappointing, maybe it's time for me to get another tailor, but I digress.
Here are some follow-up questions.
1. On the sleeve pitch, how much should I tell Indochino to rotate it forward(e.g. 10, 15 or 20 degrees)?
This is wrong. The sleeves are rotated back not forward. The problem here is the sleeves are set too far forward and not following the natural fall of your arm. 75% of the time it is not necessary to rotate the sleeve but to trim the sleeve head and crown to match the armhole. You have to be sure of the cause.

Despos, that makes a lot of sense.  Looking at the photos again, it looks like the lines appear to be indicate the backward rotation is called for, meaning clockwise on the right sleeve.  Sounds like the sleeve head and crown are too large for the armhole, anything I can tell Indochino to fix that? 

When I ordered the suit, I told Indochino to do "high armhole", could that have contributed to the problem?  But I also don't want to have low armhole, so I'm torn.

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tailorgod 


It's only simple when the sleeve does match the armhole in crown height and width. If that's not the case, a re-cut of the sleeve might be necessary.
In any case you'd need a skilled and experienced tailor. If you want the shoulders to be taken in as well the whole operation might take up to 3 to 5 hours.
When the shoulder becomes narrower the armhole becomes wider (it's like a circle, you increase the diameter), which means you have to also let out the sleeve seams!
The rotation will throw a check out of it's matching position in the front, but with an already finished coat that's all that can be done.
BTW. I found instructions from Indochino for being measured. Hilarious: "Go to your local tailor and get yourself measured"! They apparently keep things very simple...

Just to confirm, to fix the sleeves on my Indochino suit, I should ask Indochino to rotate the sleeves toward the back of the body, and to match the sleeve crown & size to the armhole.

I suspect even if a tailor measured me, the suit would still be off because their measurement is very particular if you watch the video.  Apparently, some people who got measured by the traveling tailor in Chicago had the suit that is too snug, I wonder what Indochino's instruction to the traveling tailors (local help mostly likely) are.

Thanks again.