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Beginner Bespoke/MTM - what next?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 

Next week I should be picking up my third bespoke outfit, a navy blue suit (first two were a dinner suit and a navy blazer, both of which I was happy with; and some MTM shirts, which also turned out well). I'm thinking about what to commission next, given my budget constraints and clothing needs. So, I thought I'd ask the forum for advice.

 

My situation is that I don't have much requirement for suits - I don't need to wear them every day at my work, for example. So 2 conservative suits will do for pretty much all my formal/work requirements. 

 

For about 80% of other situations, wearing a suit and tie would make me a bit overdressed. So, I feel that sport coats + odd trousers, and more casual suits that could be worn without a tie, are where I'd get most bang for the buck. I'd be able to use them at work 80% of the time, and at weekends and evenings 80% of the time. 

 

So, I was thinking to just keep it minimalist with the suits - get the navy suit, then a mid-grey - but to get them at a Savile Row tailor. I.e. go for quality rather than quantity.

 

With the SCs, I was thinking maybe to go MTM, or use a more affordable bespoke tailor. This way I can get a greater number and variety, and experiment without breaking the bank or having lots of regrets if I get something wrong. Maybe pick up half a dozen sports coats in classic colours/patterns, and then reassess.

 

Cost for bespoke SCs is about 50-75% more than MTM for the same items, and the cloth/pattern selection is a lot better. Would you recommend paying up for bespoke SCs, or is MTM sufficient? 

post #2 of 10

Shadow plaids are an excellent choice. You can easily break them up, just as you would a solid, but you get a little more personality. That way, you get two in one basically.

post #3 of 10
I would rather have a fewer high quality items personally. I think half a dozen MTM sport coats sounds like a lot. 2 or 3 bespoke ones would be much better.
post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

I would rather have a fewer high quality items personally. I think half a dozen MTM sport coats sounds like a lot. 2 or 3 bespoke ones would be much better.

Ok. What would you recommend for first 3 SCs?

post #5 of 10
What's the climate where you live?
post #6 of 10
Also, what weight is your current navy blazer?
post #7 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

I would rather have a fewer high quality items personally. I think half a dozen MTM sport coats sounds like a lot. 2 or 3 bespoke ones would be much better.

Honestly, I completely disagree. Depends on the level thereof. I have a tuxedo I bought at Michael Andrew's bespoke, which is warranted as some of the very best in NYC, and honestly it does not fit/look better than my 1/2 dozen or so MTM suits.

 

As long as you are going full canvas, with good fabric (nothing below vitale barberis canonico/reda level, preferably at the holland & sherry/dormeuil/scabal or upper holland & sherry/zegna) and you go to a good MTM/semi-bespoke shop you can do very well. 

 

I have tried several myself, but I must tell you Aksel Bespoke is the best I have tried to date and I will not be going anywhere else. 

 

Or, as some of my coworkers have done, you can get one bespoke suit made then bring it to your MTM/semi bespoke tailor and have them copy it to the nearest 1/8'' and you will do very well, and save a barrel of dough. 

post #8 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmic View Post

Ok. What would you recommend for first 3 SCs?

I'd recommend waiting a year or two before commissioning each of them. Your taste will evolve, your understanding of fabrics will increase, your body measurements may change...
post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

What's the climate where you live?

Temperate, low humidity, 5-25 C usually. I can wear my navy blazer almost all year round, so I wouldn't get a second just yet. 

post #10 of 10
If I were to get 3 more, I'd get summer navy blazer, tweed SC in brown, then some kind of PoW or gun club or shepards check, whatever you like
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