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Quick Naples impressions (e.g. Marinella sucks, Talarico rocks, mid-market unbranded clothes are...

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
I just spent a couple of days in Naples, so I thought I might share a few random style-related observations. I hadn't been there in a long time and was only passing through with friends, so this wasn't a clothes-buying expedition, but still.

- Marinella: disappointment. I'd only been to their little shop in Milan and expected to find a treasure trove here, but they didn't have much. For instance, no shantung/raw silk ties. Yes, I did visit their upstairs shop. Basically, their style is stiff, bland and unsophisticated in a bad way. High quality but somewhat soulless ties. I wanted to buy a couple of printed foulard ties and just couldn't find one that really spoke to me. They're mostly tasteful (as in not tacky), but uninspired. Places like Cappelli or Drakes are on a different level, taste-wise (I'm only talking about silk selection -- but I could also cite construction of the RTW selection). Incidentally, I bought two soporific foulard ties in a place in Palermo called Dall'Oglio -- much better selection than Marinella.

- Random find: Mr Fox, just off Piazza dei Martiri. Excellent tie selection, both in terms of knits and regular silks. Very nice ancient madder and English-style floral prints (three- and seven-folds, flat but flawless construction). Bought three knit ties, which are the same kind as the ones sold by Drakes (but cheaper).

- Cappelli, Ulturale, Rubinacci and Attolini were all closed. It's August in Italy after all. Shame as I really wanted one of Ulturale's ties with the hidden coral horn charm. Btw, Rubinacci is relocating from Via Filangieri to a beautiful building on Via Chiaia, where their 'vintage' shop used to be. I've glanced at the interior under construction and the style is pretty much the 'luxe' one of all their shops. Looks very promising.

- Lower-end clothing: I'm lucky enough to mostly buy bespoke and fairly high quality RTW clothes, but walking around Naples I noticed that there are a lot of mid/lover-mid market shops (e.g. on the lower bit of Chiaia) selling fairly decent-looking clothes under their own label. Those are clothes that would command much higher prices in Northern Europe or North America. Here we think of Naples as the home of Rubinacci et al., SF types on a limited budget would do very well in Naples, both in terms of styling and quality.

- Talarico: great place, quite authentic and unpretentious. Bought a simple blue folding umbrella with chestnut (I think he said that's what it is) handle -- Rubinacci's prices for the same items in London are ludicrous. The young guy in the shop also recommended a very good bar for the night, so I guess he can read the aesthetics of his clientele.

- Someone really must do something to keep this gorgeous city cleaner. It's infuriating -- I say this as an Italian citizen.
post #2 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by radicaldog View Post

- Marinella: disappointment. I'd only been to their little shop in Milan and expected to find a treasure trove here, but they didn't have much. Basically, their style is stiff, bland and unsophisticated in a bad way. High quality but somewhat soulless ties.

I believe Manton prefers the term "soporific".

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post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Grant View Post

I believe Manton prefers the term "soporific".
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I wear soporific ties almost exclusively. My point was that most Marinella ties are soporific in a bad way. A muted three-colour mid-sized floral print on blue ground is soporific, OK? Well, there's good and bad soporific. I just find Drakes and Cappelli more interesting. The point is to be soporific without being obvious, and I think that's were Marinella fails.

For example -- Good (Drakes):



Wearable but uninspired (i.e. bad - Marinella):



Good with small pattern (from my own closet):



I'm sure it's not just a matter of one vs more motifs. I've just tried to pick representative samples.
post #4 of 13
I just see different repeated patterns of more or less subjective appeal.
post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cary Grant View Post

I just see different repeated patterns of more or less subjective appeal.

Fair enough. But it just seems to me that the Marinella tie above is the sort of tie worn by every non-tacky Italian politician, businessman, professional or journalist; whereas the other ties wouldn't be picked by those sorts of people. Yet, as you say, they are fundamentally the same sort of tie (same level of formality, non-tackiness, quality, even same colour). What does that say? To me it says that the non-Marinella ties are more sophisticated. Or maybe I just like to think that my own ties are more sophisticated than the ones worn by so many people in Italy. Oh well, what do I know, I hardly ever wear non-knit ties.
post #6 of 13
I'm with you radicaldog.
post #7 of 13
I do like Cappelli more than Marinella, but I like Marinella more than you do.
post #8 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Did you check out Argenio or Magnefique?

Quote:
Originally Posted by radicaldog View Post

No. I was on a little tour of Southern Italy with friends, so didn't quite have time to go on major shopping expeditions.

Too bad. They are across the street from each other, near Rubinacci.

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post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I do like Cappelli more than Marinella, but I like Marinella more than you do.

Admittedly, I was being hyperbolic about Marinella. I just don't think it's this temple of neckwear that people sometimes talk about. Perhaps the disagreement here is due to context: Marinella-esque ties are just all over the place and signify conservative blandness rather than quiet discernment.
post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Too bad. They are across the street from each other, near Rubinacci.

Didn't notice them -- perhaps the huge LV shop in front of the old Rubinacci store put me off the area. But thanks for the tip. Will stop there next time.
post #11 of 13
Great frickin' thread and terrific information. Work much appreciated!
post #12 of 13
Why are people on SF obsessed with Naples? It's a shithole.
post #13 of 13
Naples is not a shithole... That is offensive! Look a little beyond the chaos and mess and you will find genuine people with passion heart and human qualities rarely seen in Milan, Rome and Florence. Admittedly it is difficult to access the likes of Kiton and isaia in Naples centro but you will be rewarded if you ask the right people the right questions. Local tailors are littered all over the City and do work for the local people and have a sartorial hand unique to the world.

Clearly you go to Naples with the eyes of a westerner and it is in is that you fail to see its beauty. I agree with radical dog that Marinella was uninspiring, dig deeper and you will find some magnificent ties in the Chiaia district including bespoke options for about 150 euro. I have Ulturale making me a bespoke tie so I will provide feedback on its completion early next week when I pick it up.

Naples is best for sportswear where you will find a vast amount of options in Rtw at prices way below most Itlain cities.

Forza Napoli
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