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New bespoke dinner jacket - now with photo of cutting process...more to come - Page 2

post #16 of 27
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post #17 of 27
Thread Starter 
Thank you all - will keep this going with photos as and when Matthew sends them to me

First fitting is on September 19th, will try to get some photos then as well

R-O-T
post #18 of 27
ROT, looking forward to fitting pictures. I was thinking about getting three patch on the green donegal, I know Edwin doesn't care too much for patch pockets but that cloth strikes me as very casual and a breast patch would be appropriate. Probably with swelled edges.
post #19 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by forex View Post

ROT, looking forward to fitting pictures. I was thinking about getting three patch on the green donegal, I know Edwin doesn't care too much for patch pockets but that cloth strikes me as very casual and a breast patch would be appropriate. Probably with swelled edges.

I opted for 2-patch and welted breast pocket. I am not really a fan of patch breast pockets. Have it on a fresco blazer by NSM, and in retrospect I regret it. My other jackets by them are all 2-patch, welted breast

Am really looking forward to the Donegal - such an amazing cloth. Fear it will lead all of my other cold weather jackets to be neglected
post #20 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by R.O. Thornhill View Post

Thank you for thoughts so far
I will have a look at the plain wool as well as the wool/mohair offerings. I was attracted to the blend as it will offer a bit more crispness, which I like in evening clothes
In terms of configuration, I am changing my mind hourly...on the one hand I like the simplicity of a 1B SB, on the other hand my favourite suits by Steed are DB...Shawl lapels to me are classic, and just a little bit different. I guess I have been brainwashed by all those pictures of Connery and the DoW
How I arrived at these two options is:
1) I don't want another DB peak lapel dinner jacket - so if I go DB it will definitely be a shawl
2) If I wanted a 1B SB peak I would probably go for a tailor with a more structured style, something like a Huntsman. Maybe I am wrong about this, but I feel the softer drape cut of Steed will be better suited to a Shawl
3) Hence, it will either be a 1B SB shawl or a 4x1 DB shawl
Whatever I do it will have side vents. My current dinner jacket does not, and it is driving my insane
R-O-T

A bit of Style Form heresy to complicate your decision process:

Notch Lapel SB worn with a vest (waistcoat)
post #21 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

A bit of Style Form heresy to complicate your decision process:
Notch Lapel SB worn with a vest (waistcoat)

Could never do that - just think notch lapel SB DJs look wrong

In any case too late - the DB shawl 4x1 has been cut and is being made up for a first fitting in two weeks

R-O-T
post #22 of 27

Just a quick note for those eagle-eyed of you that may have noticed but we have put a neck cut in on the Dinner Jacket as well as the Donegal. I just happened to be a bit hasty with taking the photo and did so before we marked the neck cut.

 

Also regarding the Notch-Lapel on a DJ, I much prefer the Shawl Collar or Peak Lapel. The Notch-Lapel is a bit too "Hollywood" for me and reminds me of more hire-wear or OTR.

 

Best,

 

Matthew

 

www.steed.co.uk

 

matthew@steed.co.uk

post #23 of 27

I would go with the 1B SB. Single vent would be a hipper look. Go a inch and a half shorter in the coat length. Piped pockets with flaps. Pipe pockets in grossgrain. Flaps will let you wear it two ways, with or without. Want to wear it piped, tuck in flaps and press properly. This will add versatility. Sleeve buttons = 2 functional covered grossgrain. Maybe go a little bigger than 24L.

post #24 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qualityguru View Post

I would go with the 1B SB. Single vent would be a hipper look. Go a inch and a half shorter in the coat length. Piped pockets with flaps. Pipe pockets in grossgrain. Flaps will let you wear it two ways, with or without. Want to wear it piped, tuck in flaps and press properly. This will add versatility. Sleeve buttons = 2 functional covered grossgrain. Maybe go a little bigger than 24L.

Is there no emoticon for head exploding?
post #25 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qualityguru View Post

I would go with the 1B SB. Single vent would be a hipper look. Go a inch and a half shorter in the coat length. Piped pockets with flaps. Pipe pockets in grossgrain. Flaps will let you wear it two ways, with or without. Want to wear it piped, tuck in flaps and press properly. This will add versatility. Sleeve buttons = 2 functional covered grossgrain. Maybe go a little bigger than 24L.

Mother of God, that sounds awful. You nearly made me choke on my Monday martini

R-O-T
post #26 of 27
Pictures here would be just lovely!
post #27 of 27
bump.

Any pics?
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