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New bespoke dinner jacket - now with photo of cutting process...more to come

post #1 of 27
Thread Starter 
All,

Am seeing Edwin DeBoise of Steed tomorrow to discuss a new dinner jacket - and would like your thoughts on configuration

For reference, I already have a 6x4 DB black dinner jacket, which I intend to keep in rotation (in particular for more robust events)

What I am thinking of having made is:

Fabric: Midnight blue barathea, will ask to look at the Smith and H.Lesser books. Any strong preferences for one over the other? Have heard good things about the 10oz Smith wool/mohair blend

Cut:
- I am wavering between a 4X1 DB and a 1B SB - in either case it will come with generous shawl lapels
- Jacket will have black grosgrain facings, jetted pockets, covered buttons, side vents
- Trousers will be high-waisted, cut for braces, no back pockets

Any suggestions?

R-O-T
Edited by R.O. Thornhill - 9/4/12 at 4:09am
post #2 of 27
Fabric sounds fine, any choice you mention would be great, however I am not convinced of wool/mohair blend, don't think they are that much cooler than a plain weave all wool.

In terms of cut, I prefer a generous shawl on one button SB, no vents, might consider gun cuff.

Enjoy.
post #3 of 27
generous shawl lapels make me nervous-- seems like the shawl collar turns out well in about half the cases i see it. Why not do a classic peak lapel, especially in one button midnight blue style?
post #4 of 27
Thread Starter 
Thank you for thoughts so far

I will have a look at the plain wool as well as the wool/mohair offerings. I was attracted to the blend as it will offer a bit more crispness, which I like in evening clothes

In terms of configuration, I am changing my mind hourly...on the one hand I like the simplicity of a 1B SB, on the other hand my favourite suits by Steed are DB...Shawl lapels to me are classic, and just a little bit different. I guess I have been brainwashed by all those pictures of Connery and the DoW

How I arrived at these two options is:

1) I don't want another DB peak lapel dinner jacket - so if I go DB it will definitely be a shawl
2) If I wanted a 1B SB peak I would probably go for a tailor with a more structured style, something like a Huntsman. Maybe I am wrong about this, but I feel the softer drape cut of Steed will be better suited to a Shawl
3) Hence, it will either be a 1B SB shawl or a 4x1 DB shawl

Whatever I do it will have side vents. My current dinner jacket does not, and it is driving my insane

R-O-T
post #5 of 27
Really? How can no vents makes you uncomfortable, it is actually the most comfortable mode for me consider I never put my hand in pocket when wearing a tux
post #6 of 27
Ask Mr Deboise to show you any 9-10oz all wool worsted, they are largely plain weave and should be cool enough even for tropical weather
post #7 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

Ask Mr Deboise to show you any 9-10oz all wool worsted, they are largely plain weave and should be cool enough even for tropical weather

Definitely going for a barathea / evening weak weave, not a plain suiting

As for vents, guess we are all different. Having worn an unvented DJ for 10 years I recon I know what I prefer

R-O-T
post #8 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by R.O. Thornhill View Post

Definitely going for a barathea / evening weak weave, not a plain suiting
As for vents, guess we are all different. Having worn an unvented DJ for 10 years I recon I know what I prefer
R-O-T

Fair enough,I am open to any education.
post #9 of 27
Thread Starter 
Just got back from seeing Edwin

Ended up going with the 10oz Smith's midnight blue barathea in wool/mohair (the darker of the two). Edwin very bravely tried to steer me to the black Fisher option - but I guess my heart was set on midnight.

Went with the 4x1 DB shawl configuration, with side vents, and jetted pockets. Black grosgrain facings and covered buttons. Trousers will be cut high for braces, straight side pockets, no back pockets, side braid

Also decided to order a green W. Bill donegal odd jacket - 3-roll-2 SB, two patch pockets and a welted breast pocket.

Fittings in three weeks or so

R-O-T
post #10 of 27
Thread Starter 
Received this by way of update from Matthew and Edwin of Steed - my dinner jacket is being cut



R-O-T
post #11 of 27
Great stuff, I look forward to seeing finished garments. I think I have the same W.Bill green donegal you are getting, what color lining did you choose for the sport coat?
post #12 of 27
Thread Starter 
Here's a bonus shot of the Donegal about to be cut



@Forex: I never really specify linings - Edwin knows I like them fairly sedate. I trust him to pick something that won't frighten the horses

R-O-T
post #13 of 27
Thank you a lot for sharing!
post #14 of 27
NICE ONE
post #15 of 27
Great stuff, ROT! Looking forward to more photos.
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