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How long did it take you to transition to heeding MC advice? - Page 2

post #16 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGrotius View Post

I'm the typical SW&D, noob guy in the sense that I found SF, ignored most of the MC advice, and loaded up on Prada, Dior suits (because they were the "best" of the fashion brands), etc.
Two years later and I just received one of my Dior suits back from the tailor and while it has that look, it's not perfect for me. The arms don't lay just right (ironically, they did prior to being tailored shorter), the length is probably still .5 inches too long (believe it or not), and the silhouette is so dropped it's like a mix between RLBL and well a woman's suit. On top of that, the pants are not perfect.
I gave MTM or Custom (in the Napoli sense of the word) a look recently but was a little scared off by:
  • While I don't mind dropping $2.5K on a fashion suit, $6K+ is still an eye opener for me. I can afford it, it's just a "change"
  • Worries that the tailors would not "get" it, and I'd come back with a giant, boxy suit with a 12" pants rise and 9" leg opening
  • Confusion about what would be best for my body type, e.g., I'm soft shouldered (euphemism for no shoulders), so figured I should do something with more structure, but if I went that route it looked too severe, and if I went the direction which I thought was cooler, Napoli (loved the Madison ave store), I was worried that the lack of canvassing or shoulder pads would be bad for my small frame

So, how long before you made the leap, and did you ever regret?
(As a microcosm, got my first pair of Lobbs after flirting with many other type

 

s of shoes and can't look back now.)

 

We all seem to go thru stages where we experiment and make a lot of mistakes.  I know that I  look back on many of my earlier items and fits and think 'what possessed me to buy that garish orange/spotty/shiny tie? why did I put striped formal pants with an odd tweed jacket? etc'  

 

 If I had my time over I'd start by acquiring a full set of  basics- cf the 'what a well-dressed man must have in his wardrobe' thread started by Manton a week or two ago.  

Lots of plains and solids in the best materials I could afford, and focus on fit and texture rather than color.  Understated and elegant rather than trying to find 'signature' items that in the end just don't really go with anything .  Now I'd go for items that on their own may seem boring but are versatile basic elements in a variety of fits.   MTM or bespoke, whenever possible, for better fit, and on the theory that a few very good items are better than dozens of average ones.  

I'd avoid excess of any kind.  No really wide or narrow lapels or exceptionally fitted waists in jackets.  No extreme spread collars on shirts, and stick to basic blue, cream, white (and maybe a pink) shirts in herringbone or end-on-end or oxford cloth. A navy and a gray summer suit, and a navy and a gray winter suit and a fawn linen.  A couple of plain tweed jackets in blue and gray herringbone.  Hand-made black oxfords, a Norweger, a scotch-grain derby, a burgundy wingtip in red-brown, something in suede and a PTB.  Quality blue and gray vertical stripe and plain socks.  Ties in linen or cashmere,in navy and black and for color a couple of silk challis and macclefields and PSs for flair.

post #17 of 25

I try to follow advice by reputed members here (to the extent that my often tight budget allows) since the beginning, because I want my style to be as classic as possible. I am not really interested in breaking the "rules", or adding "modern twists" when dressing. If I break the rules it's because I'm still far from knowing them. I'd prefer trying to be creative within those limits.

post #18 of 25
Bespoke, made to measure, and ready to wear. Just buy what best fits you and suits your personal style, that will develop with time. Not all the advice you get here is useful and $6k bespoke doesn't guarantee a better look than $800 ready to wear. Start slow and pay attention.
post #19 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGrotius View Post
While I don't mind dropping $2.5K on a fashion suit, $6K+ is still an eye opener for me. I can afford it, it's just a "change"

 

Sorry, but why, when you are already paying $2.5K on a fashion suit, would the natural thing be to pay $6K for bespoke? It seems to me that you have still got some learning to do.

 

You can get full bespoke for $2.5K no problem in most major cities - and really good bespoke too. This is more than people like Graham Browne in London charge. And you can get really excellent semi-bespoke from people like Cad and the Dandy for $1.5K. And neither will force you into choices you don't want or make you have a boxy suit.

 

What I've learned from MC is that, whatever your style, it's about 1. fit; 2. understanding how to combine materials, colours and textures*. Bespoke doesn't necessarily have any part to play (if you are lucky enough that you have a fairly standard body shape, or you find a particular maker whose stuff fits you). However, for me, MTM and bespoke are almost essential for MC-type coats and jackets because of my particular body-shape - I am just in between standard sizes in incompatible ways.

 

* Actually, SW&D fundamentally isn't so different to this, it just doesn't derive its inspirations from the rules of classic gentlemen's clothing. This means that the context is different, so fit can mean, for example, a deliberate aesthetic decision to wear stuff that's designed to be worn oversized. It's still about fit though: you can't just wear an oversized conventionally tailored suit and hope it looks like Yohji Yamamato. It doesn't work. The materials involved are also of a much wider range, for example, manmade fibres aren't looked down on intrinsically the same extent - it's more about what they do and how they are used, not what they are or whether the maker has a century-old tradition.

 

So I've actually learned as much from SW&D here as I have from MC (and actually from a small number of particular people in each forum). What I don't do anymore is try to mix everything up and think that it works or that eclectism is a good form of rule-breaking in itself - and this is perhaps the biggest lesson I've learned from the forum as a whole. I now tend to keep to either (approximately) MC or SW&D norms at any one time - although that doesn't mean there aren't some pieces of clothing I have that can work in either context. Oh, and I'm in my 40s. I don't see why getting older should mean that you have to 'chose a side' or turn conservative.

post #20 of 25
Napoli is a store? I thought it was a city? If you are dropping that kind of cash, have you checked out the NYC bespoke tailors, Logsdall, Ercole, etc.?
post #21 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Petepan View Post

Every person says they dress classic with some flair. What exactly does that mean?

post #22 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

Oh, and I'm in my 40s. I don't see why getting older should mean that you have to 'chose a side' or turn conservative.
I didn't mean it that way. "Have to" is pretty strong wording. I just meant that it can help explain why there tends to be a split between generations. I'm speaking for myself and based on what I've heard from some others—not everyone, obviously. I don't think I'm off-base to say that it's the younger crowd that is more likely to follow fashion trends, however.
post #23 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mox C View Post


I didn't mean it that way. "Have to" is pretty strong wording. I just meant that it can help explain why there tends to be a split between generations. I'm speaking for myself and based on what I've heard from some others—not everyone, obviously. I don't think I'm off-base to say that it's the younger crowd that is more likely to follow fashion trends, however.

 

Oh, I agree. I'm just not normal. But then almost no-one here is normal...

post #24 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

Oh, I agree. I'm just not normal. But then almost no-one here is normal...
Speak for...

bounce2.gif

Ok, fair cop.
post #25 of 25
Try to find some slimmer fitting off the rack brands.
Some might fit you perfectly, and you can go from there.
You are exactly right that you will end up with shit if you pay $6000 and have no idea how to specify exactly what you want.
I would start saving photos of fits you think are ideal.
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