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GETTING THE TROUSER LENGTH RIGHT

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
Your foot's instep is one of the things that controls this. A very narrow trouser leg will hit the higher part of the instep. A wider bottom will reach the lower part of the instep.

Also, the upper part of the trouser should be altered before the length is adjusted. Then being fitted the belt must be on and cinched up to the degree that you normally wear it. If you dont have two different leg lengths the fitter will mark only one leg.

For the person that has different leg lengths, the fitter will mark one leg. Then he will take a short stick, place one end on the floor behind one leg and mark the leg at the top of the stick, and repeat it on the other leg. when the trousers are on the cutting table being marked for cuffs
the two marks will show the different leg lengths. If you do not inform the fitter that you need two different lengths, he will assume that both legs are the same. We all know about the low shoulder and high hip. That high hip is going to be your longer leg.
post #2 of 16
Very informative as usual! Thanks!

I actually have trouble making the hem straight in some cases - is there a good trick to do this once my wife has marked the pants for me? It is especially difficult when the wool or linen is light!
post #3 of 16
What are your opinions on the amount of break? I feel like there's a very pleasing ratio with the leg opening width, when hitting close to the 3rd or 4th lace hole, that works with no break. It seems to make the trousers look very straight without looking short when walking.
post #4 of 16

Could you also comment on proper circumference of the pant leg at the shoe? Should there be any taper down the leg? I have a few suits off the rack that I feel like I am swimming in with my legs (28 years old, 6'1 and 175lb). I really don't want the skinny jeans look, but I feel like I am an "old man who doesn't know how to shop". 

 

Any rules of thumb on this and the break (asked earlier)?

post #5 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by unclesam099 View Post

Very informative as usual! Thanks!
I actually have trouble making the hem straight in some cases - is there a good trick to do this once my wife has marked the pants for me? It is especially difficult when the wool or linen is light!

I will do a DIY tutorial on this.

all you need is one mark on the front crease. did she mark around the bottom?
post #6 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by yywwyy View Post

What are your opinions on the amount of break? I feel like there's a very pleasing ratio with the leg opening width, when hitting close to the 3rd or 4th lace hole, that works with no break. It seems to make the trousers look very straight without looking short when walking.
Some want a straight crease even if means that sox show when walking.
some are ashamed of showing their sox like a womans petty coat showing.
its ones personal taste that decides
true though the wider trouser bottom is made longer than a narrow bottom.
post #7 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarshMan114 View Post

Could you also comment on proper circumference of the pant leg at the shoe? Should there be any taper down the leg? I have a few suits off the rack that I feel like I am swimming in with my legs (28 years old, 6'1 and 175lb). I really don't want the skinny jeans look, but I feel like I am an "old man who doesn't know how to shop". 

Any rules of thumb on this and the break (asked earlier)?

It should be what your comfortable with.
Try having one p[air taken in at the bottom with the leg tapered to nothing at the hip
on the out seam, and the same to nothing at the crotch.
If you like the result then do the other trousers.
Just remember that if you wear a very large size shoe., and you make the trouser
narrow your feet will appear still larger.
post #8 of 16
What are your thoughts on a (using the wrong words, here, I'm afraid) slanted hem to make the no break look a bit easier, while also not showing too much sock.
post #9 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hookem12387 View Post

What are your thoughts on a (using the wrong words, here, I'm afraid) slanted hem to make the no break look a bit easier, while also not showing too much sock.

Thats fine but there is limit to how slanted you can go before the slant becomes awkward looking.
Also a steep slant complicates the tailoring [read time $$$$].
Despos did one on this.check the tutorials.
post #10 of 16

I like nearly straight across on the hem (maybe just the slightest 'slant') and I wear my trousers a little short.  You can definitely see sock when walking, I LIKE IT!

post #11 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarshMan114 View Post

Could you also comment on proper circumference of the pant leg at the shoe? Should there be any taper down the leg? I have a few suits off the rack that I feel like I am swimming in with my legs (28 years old, 6'1 and 175lb). I really don't want the skinny jeans look, but I feel like I am an "old man who doesn't know how to shop". 

 

Any rules of thumb on this and the break (asked earlier)?

 It's very simple. The hem width depends on your shoe size which is relative to your height. You're likely  around a size 11 shoe so the hem should be 17-17.5. The trousers should touch the top of your shoes and be pitched 3/4 " in the rear. Try anything else and you'll either look like a sloppy old man with breaking pants or some stupid looking kid in a zoot suit.

Another thing which seems to be ignored here. Get trousers that are the right rise for your body. You don't want a high rise if it doesn't suit you because the trousers will always feel like  they're falling off and feel baggy in the thigh. Or too short a rise if you need more room.

I have a feeling that most boys on here are ectomorphs with poor builds and bone structure because they can never get clothes to fit right.

post #12 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joker Man View Post

 It's very simple. The hem width depends on your shoe size which is relative to your height. You're likely  around a size 11 shoe so the hem should be 17-17.5. The trousers should touch the top of your shoes and be pitched 3/4 " in the rear. Try anything else and you'll either look like a sloppy old man with breaking pants or some stupid looking kid in a zoot suit.

Another thing which seems to be ignored here. Get trousers that are the right rise for your body. You don't want a high rise if it doesn't suit you because the trousers will always feel like  they're falling off and feel baggy in the thigh. Or too short a rise if you need more room.

I have a feeling that most boys on here are ectomorphs with poor builds and bone structure because they can never get clothes to fit right.

 

Interesting.  Is there a general guideline/forumla in calculating hem width when given shoe size?  80% of shoe length/size? 

 

what do you mean by pitched 3/4" in the rear?

post #13 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post

I will do a DIY tutorial on this.
all you need is one mark on the front crease. did she mark around the bottom?


While I am wearing the trousers and a longwing shoe, she marks at the top of the brouging, or about 3/4 to 1 inch above the top of the heel, as my left leg is 1/8 to 1/4 inch longer. That allows me to (usually) hem my trousers for my irregularities.
post #14 of 16
Thread Starter 
the widest bottom should be no more than enough to cover the lacing area.
that is unless your shoe is a size 22.
remember that as it gets narrower it climbs up your instep.
then consider how short a length you want.
post #15 of 16

Very informative thread... maybe you can help me out!

I measure about 5'7-8" and am looking to buy more high-waisted trousers, as I find they produce a more statuesque silhouette since the pant hangs longer on the body and thus falls cleaner, creating a taller look.

Trouble is, I can't seem to find many companies making trousers in this style. I would concede that it is probably an older style (think of the 30s and some of the 70s)... but if you look at what Tom Ford is doing with most of his trousers, it's generally a high-waisted design- and I will follow him to the graves.

Any advice on how/where to get high-waisted trousers in my area, or at least how to replicate the look (perhaps with the length of the jacket)?

Thanks!

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