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New overcoat commission - What colour? - Page 3

post #31 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GucciKid View Post

Also, depending on your budget I'm not sure I would go with MyTailor. I've only ever ordered shirts from them, but I did find the quality fairly poor.
A good overcoat should last you a long time, it's an investment piece, so I would explore your options (mtm or bespoke in toronto perhaps) or higher end RTW.

I was looking to stay around $1000 but could go up to $1500. Are there any options in Toronto at that price point?
post #32 of 64

GS - listen to Despos, he knows what he's talking about. Go navy (or a variant, if you want something a little special - navy herringbone, or a subtle overcheck, or a slightly (but not unsubtly) brighter or darker than navy blue). But if you are going navy, don't go with that original style. Navy will also suit your colouring much more than camel or brown. A deep grey would also work for you, but navy would be the best.


Edited by FlyingMonkey - 8/28/12 at 11:13am
post #33 of 64
I'll throw in with the majority. For a first overcoat, stick with navy or charcoal.
post #34 of 64
Your context for wearing the topcoat should be the determining factor of style and color. Scenarios 2 & 3 are about the same so you have, A) worn with a suit or B) worn casually over casual attire. As others have said, few colors and styles fit both needs. Decide which scenario to dress for and get by with this coat for the other situation until you can add an appropriate coat. If you dress predominately for or 2 & 3, don't get navy. If it will mostly be worn with a suit, get navy. If worn for each situation equally, get grey. There are more choices of various weaves and textures in grey than blue and picking the appropriate finish will bring versatility.

I haven't owned a navy or midnight topcoat. Have a dark grey, not charcoal, and it is a casual raglan style with slash pockets and lighter weight. Had a dark plum color, venetian cloth, cut as a trench coat that was amazing. Wore it out. My dress coat is a very dark brown and black herringbone ( you can find this cloth in most of the outerwear sample books, particularly Holland & Sherry , Scabal) cut as a DB Chesterfield, black velvet collar. This coat goes with every color suit except brown. Have several coats in shades of brown, tan, vicuna in solids and patterned cloths. These are worn the most.

Have two in the works, a grey plaid and navy twill. Both are double faced and will be unlined. An experiment. Want to remake the brown/black herringbone chesterfield as the one I have is from 1985. and looks a bit aged. Also have a dark bottle green barleycorn pattern cut as a raglan, not in a hurry to finish it. Have two mid brown and cream large herringbone topcoats cut. One is a raglan with patch pockets and the other will be a SB Chesterfield with a dark butterscotch velvet collar. Liked the idea of both styles so I am making both. Thought it would be cool to see two totally different interpretations of the same cloth. Another experiment.

Have a light navy herringbone that will probably be made up as a SB Chesterfield with a navy velvet collar but that is for a later time.
At some point I want to make a light colored gabardine as a trench coat or maybe a wrap. Then a classic Polo.

I have a thing for topcoats.
post #35 of 64

My vote goes to camel as well. I think it is just as versatile as the navy.

post #36 of 64
I just had a couple of pair of dress pants made at SH Spiro, he should be in the 1k-1.5k range for an overcoat, he had one hanging around the shop when I picked up my pants. He does very good work for the prices he charges. YMMV in that he's fairly old school and you need to communicate what you want clearly. The overcoat in the store looked fairly decent with a quick glance. Just bring pictures and be specific about fit. Good luck in your quest.
post #37 of 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by GradSchooler View Post

I'm going to be meeting with Rishi Hemrajani (from Mytailor.com) when he comes to Toronto in a couple of weeks and ordering an overcoat. I'm going to ask them to copy (or get as close as possible to) the styling of this (see below) Tom Ford overcoat which was floating around the B&S for a while.

My only question is colour. I'd like to go with camel, or something similar, but I'm not sure that would be as versatile as I need. I need it to work:
1) Dressed up with suit and tie
2) Dressed down with jeans and polo
3) Sport coat (with or without tie) and slacks in a "professorly" stye (earth tones,tweed, checks, etc)
Would camel be versatile enough? Or should I be going with Navy, midnight, or charcoal?

No double breasted or coats that come lower than the top of the knee unless you want to look like the worst dressed old man in England, Elephant Ears. Take a look at that old bag he married who is even older than he is and you pretty much get an idea of his taste. Even his old man won't wear this double breasted junk left over from the 1930's which looked crappy even back then.

post #38 of 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by GradSchooler View Post

I was looking to stay around $1000 but could go up to $1500. Are there any options in Toronto at that price point?

I would definitely check out some of the Toronto tailors. I can highly recommend Don Lee of Trend Custom Tailors, who may end up being a little more than your budget (1700 +) or so, and though I can't personally recommend him I think Spiro on the Danforth would be a far better option than MyTailor and would probably fall within the $1000-$1500 mark.

At $1000-1500 you could probably also get something decent off the rack from Harry Rosen. Worth having a look anyways.

I can't stress enough though that an overcoat should be an investment piece - if made well of a good cloth it should last a very long time. I know we all have different figures which we can "stretch" to but an overcoat is worth it so I would find yours and get the best quality you can at that price.
post #39 of 64
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the advice everyone. I think I'm going to go with Despos suggestions and do the coat in Navy without the patch pockets. I'm going to give Spiro a call and see what my options are through him in terms of fabric, construction and cost. I had considered Don Lee at Trend before, but they seem to be out of my price range. I might also check out OTR at Harry's, though, at least from previous experience, I'm not confident I'll find something double breasted. Unless anyone knows any specific labels I might have success with?

For those of you who have had experience with Spiro: I've got lots of pictures of the coat. If I brought them all in and stressed that I wanted this exact coat (minus patch pockets) in a modern/slim fit and knee length, do you think that would be sufficient? Any other tips for communicating what I want effectively so it doesn't end up too boxy looking (which I've heard Spiro tends to do)?
post #40 of 64
Quote:
I wanted this exact coat (minus patch pockets)

When I read this ^ and then
Quote:
in a modern/slim fit and knee length

I don't get the latter from the former. What type/style/for what purpose of a coat do you want?
post #41 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

I don't get the latter from the former. What type/style/for what purpose of a coat do you want?

I suppose what I mean is I want something with some shape (like the coat in the picture has with regards to the waist suppression) not something that falls in a straight line from the shoulders down that would make me look like a rectangle with arms. Perhaps slim/modern is the wrong way to express that? I've just heard that Spiro tends to favour so called "Old School" cuts which are boxy and shapeless and want to make sure I can express to him that isn't the type of fit I'm looking for.
post #42 of 64
If he doesn't make the style of coat you want, don't use him. Topcoats render shaping differently as they are worn and fitted over another jacket. A lot depends on your size and body type. I don't really associate this style of coat with trim and modern.
post #43 of 64
This looks trim and modern

post #44 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

This looks trim and modern

Ah, I see. That is definitely not what I want then. Thanks for clarifying that for me.
post #45 of 64
With Spiro, there should be a measurement and a second basted fitting. The pictures should show him what it should look like and the fitting should show him how it should fit. Try popping into Brooks Brothers, their coats are fairly classic, more than Rosen these days.
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