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Brooks Brothers suit fit vs. tailoring

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

Hey all,

 

Could use some help here, not terribly knowledgeable about this stuff. I just got fitted for a suit at Brooks Brothers. The fit was their "Madison" cut, which I understand is the more classic fit. The suit looked large on me, but obviously there were alterations to be done. My questions is, why bother having separate fits if they are just going to alter the suit anyway? Is it just a starting point?

I'm 6' 0" 165lbs and pretty slim, I'm wondering if I should've gotten a Fitzgerald or Millano or something?

Any input would be appreciated. 

 

Thank you,

post #2 of 15
It's just a starting point for your body type. Ideally for a RTW you'd want to only need to alter the sleeve length but usually some other minor stuff has to happen if you pick a cut that matches your frame.

I'm basically your size - an inch taller and like 5 pounds heavier. I've bought two Fitz jackets and all that needs to be done is shortening the sleeve length and making one very small alteration near the back of the collar where I end up with a bit of excess fabric. I feel like I'd swim in a Madison cut.
post #3 of 15
6 foot and 170 lb and I fit in a Fitzgerald fine off the peg.
post #4 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

It's just a starting point for your body type. Ideally for a RTW you'd want to only need to alter the sleeve length but usually some other minor stuff has to happen if you pick a cut that matches your frame.
I'm basically your size - an inch taller and like 5 pounds heavier. I've bought two Fitz jackets and all that needs to be done is shortening the sleeve length and making one very small alteration near the back of the collar where I end up with a bit of excess fabric. I feel like I'd swim in a Madison cut.

 

+1

 

Try a Fitzgerald cut.

 

This seems to be a problem I run into with a lot of in-store suit sales guys. It's always an older gentleman who exclusively wears sack-suits and thinks it's the only good-looking fit and all these youngsters need to realize it. Either that or it's a guy who really doesn't know much about suiting whatsoever so he kinda just makes stuff up based on what his boss dresses like. Kinda sad.

post #5 of 15

Earlier this year I bought a Golden Fleece (Which has the Madison cut), and I could swim laps in it. For my body type, which is lean and athletic, the Madison cut was horrible. 

 

I pretty much had the whole suit re-cut and sewn, but I never got the results that I wanted...not to mention that the Madison also has low armholes. It's an old-man suit, go for the Milan or Fitz. 

 

edit: I'm 6'2'', 190 lbs lean. 

post #6 of 15
to the point in the initial post, the fitz also has slimmer lapels, higher armholes, i believe a slightly higher buttoning point, etc.
post #7 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamspace View Post

Earlier this year I bought a Golden Fleece (Which has the Madison cut), and I could swim laps in it. For my body type, which is lean and athletic, the Madison cut was horrible. 

 

I pretty much had the whole suit re-cut and sewn, but I never got the results that I wanted...not to mention that the Madison also has low armholes. It's an old-man suit, go for the Milan or Fitz. 

 

edit: I'm 6'2'', 190 lbs lean. 

 

This.  Your goal is to find the RTW suit that fits the best and needs the least alterations.  Anything requiring extensive alterations will never look quite right. 

post #8 of 15
If there is a BB store close by, try on a Fitz in your size. I don't think all stores carry the Milano in house. The Fitz is fairly slim, though may need some alterations. I heard they redesigned the Fitz a couple of years ago to make it slimmer than what it used to be. I don't like their center vent though.
post #9 of 15

For what i have seen from Brooks Brother prices, you pay a lot for their name. And with their name associate yourself with car salesmen and fbi agents. 

 

Made-to-measure suits at a bespoke shop usually start around $800 + or - $50. That would be a very well fitting suit, with a half or full canvas. Bespoke suits start at about $1750 - $2000.

 

Plus on both you get to choose from hundreds of exterior and interior fabrics.

 

Go to a local bespoke shop and save yourself the hassle of trying to get the right brooks brother suit.

post #10 of 15
Thread Starter 

Well I picked up the suit today and it looks great. It fits how it should. I think the fitzgerald would have been too slim. I know the fashion trend is these super tight suits, but I think a more normal, but trim suit looks way more professional. I work in finance, so I can't be lookin like some fashion ladyboy in meetings and what not.

post #11 of 15
^ Pics? I would also agree with the others that a Madison cut on someone 6'0" and 165 lbs would be too big...unless you sized down from your normal suit size, or if there were major alterations done to the suit.
post #12 of 15
The Madison is a great, classic American darted cut. Is it Black Lapel slim? No. But I believe it will look far less dated in 10 years than the Fitz or Milano.

FWIW, I'm 5'9", 150ish, and wear a 38 coat. I prefer sacks and the Madison cut. I am also (arguably) not:
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkThomas View Post

… an older gentleman who exclusively wears sack-suits and thinks it's the only good-looking fit and all these youngsters need to realize it … [or]… a guy who really doesn't know much about suiting whatsoever so he kinda just makes stuff up based on what his boss dresses like.
post #13 of 15
You can have any of their cuts taken in or let out if you size up or down. The larger differences are in the lapels, the size of the armhole, and in the shoulders.
post #14 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by luftvier View Post

The Madison is a great, classic American darted cut. Is it Black Lapel slim? No. But I believe it will look far less dated in 10 years than the Fitz or Milano.
FWIW, I'm 5'9", 150ish, and wear a 38 coat. I prefer sacks and the Madison cut. I am also (arguably) not:

 

Just to clarify: My statement was clearly not in reference to all people who wear sack suits. I was speaking specifically about sales-dudes who know little or nothing about suiting fit.

With regard to your personal style: If sack suits (and specifically the Madison cut) look good on you then more power to you. I don't in any way think that young people need to wear trim-fit suits.

post #15 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by luftvier View Post

The Madison is a great, classic American darted cut. Is it Black Lapel slim? No. But I believe it will look far less dated in 10 years than the Fitz or Milano.
FWIW, I'm 5'9", 150ish, and wear a 38 coat. I prefer sacks and the Madison cut. I am also (arguably) not:

I would say that the Regent happens to be the BB cut with the most timeless elegance and best proportions.

The Milano is certainly a product of current fashion (even though not the most extreme on the market) and will look dated in a couple of years, but I don't think that this will happen to the Fitzgerald since none of its features are extremely slimmed down.

The Madison is just too shapeless for my taste (of course some might like this).
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