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Jefferyd reviews Indochino - Page 3

post #31 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

thoughts about J. Crew's Ludlow suit, both in the concept and the marketing.

I think j.crew's Ludlow suit is quite meh. Lapels are slim, def. too slim for those who prefer a more traditional lapel width, yet aren't quite slim enough for the skinny lapel fashion-forward crowd. Armholes aren't high at all by SF standards, despite the suit's trimmer cut. Shoulder padding feels average and I find the shoulders to be rather boxy irl.

They've def. marketed the hell out of that suit/cut over the years, but it's perhaps time for them to revamp it or come out with a new cut.

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post #32 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bourne View Post

by SF standards

They're not designing for SF. They're designing for the masses.
post #33 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post

They're not designing for SF. They're designing for the masses.

True, but the masses are quickly catching up to SF.
post #34 of 89
when men's wearhouse is selling a knock off of the ludlow suit, you know it is time to move on....
post #35 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bourne View Post

True, but the masses are quickly catching up to SF.

No, they're not.


They promised to ship my suit by September 8. It came yesterday (September 4). I'll try to shoot it before I leave town for the weekend.
post #36 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

No, they're not.

So how do you explain something like this (taken from Esquire magazine, Sept. 2012, p.162 'the Tommy Hilfiger three-piece suit'):
Quote:
It has the trimmer fit and higher-cut armholes one might expect from, say, a Savile Row creation, but it also has the softer, rounded shoulders more often associated with American tailoring.

It seems every other mall brand is incorporating various SF-approved style/cut elements into their suits. Do you think it's just designers/brands pushing this to consumers rather than reacting to an actual demand?
post #37 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bourne View Post

True, but the masses are quickly catching up to SF.

Utinam!
post #38 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bourne View Post

So how do you explain something like this (taken from Esquire magazine, Sept. 2012, p.162 'the Tommy Hilfiger three-piece suit'):
It seems every other mall brand is incorporating various SF-approved style/cut elements into their suits. Do you think it's just designers/brands pushing this to consumers rather than reacting to an actual demand?

I think there is an intersection between SF-approved features and features desirable to the mass market. Slim-fit is definitely one of them.

And then there's mass market trying to associate itself with the bespoke tradition, which is probably where high armholes and Neapolitan elements come from. J.Crew and others often talk about bespoke details in their clothes. Tom Ford has the reverse angle shoulder seams and other "bespoke" details in his jackets. Even the word bespoke has been adopted by mainstream media in other consumer areas (eg. cars) to connote higher quality.

The fora-approved details are probably also pushed by the tastemakers in magazines, some of whom may be influenced by forum talk or $$$, obscure-to-the-lay-person, aspirational brands (eg. Kiton). The whole #menswear movement channels online fora aspirations into mainstream fashion as well.
post #39 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Y View Post

The whole #menswear movement channels online fora aspirations into mainstream fashion as well.

Don't underestimate the unfortunate impact of this.
post #40 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bourne View Post

So how do you explain something like this (taken from Esquire magazine, Sept. 2012, p.162 'the Tommy Hilfiger three-piece suit'):
It seems every other mall brand is incorporating various SF-approved style/cut elements into their suits. Do you think it's just designers/brands pushing this to consumers rather than reacting to an actual demand?

I would say yes. Because if you look back at the times where all suits were bespoke, the armholes were high and the jackets quite close to the body. Its only really after armani where you see the loose fitting suits. We seem to have gone full circle, and i do believe its because designers are trying to one up each other in terms of coming out with the next "it" thing. Look at Tom Ford for example, when every other designer was going with the slim lapels and shorter jackets he did a throw back to the tommy nutter batwing lapels.
post #41 of 89
i would guess that menswear has a two-three year lag, by the time something first hits SF and then hits mainstream.
A company like J. Crew has a few smaller outlets to try out the more interesting details. before they end up in the catalog.

How long did it it take for Brooks brothers to realize that their slim fit was still too large?
post #42 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post

Don't underestimate the unfortunate impact of this.

I think it's mostly just unfortunate. The latest J.Crew mens catalog has some eye-bleeding pictures, like a TV fold printed silk square. I used to think they had pretty good, mainstream tastes, now it's like they don't know what they're doing.
post #43 of 89
Fit pics are up. I'll get into more detail about my impressions of it on Monday.
post #44 of 89
Pretty good fit for that GQ style.

Pity about the fabric choice and the buttons.
post #45 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

Fit pics are up. I'll get into more detail about my impressions of it on Monday.

Thanks J- not bad at all given what you've said about process and their house style. Not convinced on the jacket proportions for a DB but it's not egregious.
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