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In praise of structured suits

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Between yesterday and today I had a chance to wear one of my unstructured, no shoulder padding, no lining etc etc from a Neopolitan tailor. Today I wore my highly structured, shoulder padded, fully lined suit from the Row in London. I could not help but notice that the Huntsman looked 10x better than the Migliarotti and made me look slimmer, taller and more muscular. Why then this constant passion for unstructured stuff on the forum?
post #2 of 12

In my mind it is simply a reflection of the casualization that western society is going through. Unstructured coats, while not appropriate for business or formal, are appropriate for nearly everything else. While I am not a huge fan, they are quite versatile in a modern wardrobe. Consider it a sign of the times more than a sign of good taste. 

post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
To me, as long as you are going to wear a jacket, might as well look good in it. The unstructured stuff is going to the recycle bin. Honestly I bought some unstructured linen jackets from uniqlo and after a few alterations they are no worse than the silly expensive custom made stuff- while I am yet to find a ready to wear jacket that could ever match bespoke.
post #4 of 12

Well yes, it is very rare that a person's natural body type will match perfectly anything off the rack. Oddly enough I've seen it come pretty close in certain rare circumstances. I think what you hit on, and what most people miss, is that unstructured doesn't mean that it's ok to have a lousy fit.

post #5 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tropicalist View Post

To me, as long as you are going to wear a jacket, might as well look good in it. The unstructured stuff is going to the recycle bin. Honestly I bought some unstructured linen jackets from uniqlo and after a few alterations they are no worse than the silly expensive custom made stuff- while I am yet to find a ready to wear jacket that could ever match bespoke.

Have you seem the general state of 'bespoke' pieces on the forum ?
post #6 of 12
I don't know if it is simply a matter of "casualization" - at least in my experience less padded simply looks better tailored; I am pretty well built - pretty much like Michelangelo's David (lol, sad to talk about it, but true), so the type of garment doesn't matter that much in my case - there is nothing to emphasize or deemphasize. I've tried both structured and unstructured jackets, and the structured jackets always look like a plastic mannequin, while the lightly padded ones create more pleasing (while still formal) lines. I guess a stuctured jacket can look awesome if you don't move, but as soon as I shift around in them, the suit feels and looks like a a foreign schell / exo-sceleton.
post #7 of 12

Well are you talking about a lightly padded jacket or an unstructured jacket? There is indeed a difference. Not to criticize what I'm sure is a truly godlike physique sarcasm.gif but there is always something to emphasize.

post #8 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

Well are you talking about a lightly padded jacket or an unstructured jacket? There is indeed a difference. Not to criticize what I'm sure is a truly godlike physique sarcasm.gif  but there is always something to emphasize.

Well, it is hard to say - I also have some completely unpadded jackets, but even they have some minimal structure due to fabric and overall construction that kind of keeps it together.

I suppose that I could agree with the OP point about completely unstructured jackets that basically look like cardigans/sweaters - that would look weird - but I personally have not encountered such a thing.
post #9 of 12
Glad to know that lining is now part of structure
post #10 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tropicalist View Post

To me, as long as you are going to wear a jacket, might as well look good in it. The unstructured stuff is going to the recycle bin. Honestly I bought some unstructured linen jackets from uniqlo and after a few alterations they are no worse than the silly expensive custom made stuff- while I am yet to find a ready to wear jacket that could ever match bespoke.

So you are comparing a Bespoke Huntsman suit to a non bespoke neopolitan one? Thats a bit unfair. Im in agreement with you that structured suits look better on most people, but the soft look if done properly gives off a more effortless grace (sprezzatura) kind of image.
post #11 of 12
I am in

People confused structured equals to mega padded J.A.Bank suits, come on why have double standards for RL Black Label?
post #12 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff13007 View Post

So you are comparing a Bespoke Huntsman suit to a non bespoke neopolitan one? Thats a bit unfair. Im in agreement with you that structured suits look better on most people, but the soft look if done properly gives off a more effortless grace (sprezzatura) kind of image.

Actually I was comparing bespoke Neopolitan to off the rack $50 uniqlo. Little difference.
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