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Buying A Suit - Pinned? - Page 2

post #16 of 49
Haven't had time to go through the list, but I think it's going to need a good bit of explanation to be accessible for newcomers. The issue of "canvas front," for example, could be interpreted a variety of ways, even by those who know something about suit construction.

Anyway, I like the idea, and applaud the effort.
post #17 of 49
I'm pretty sure Armani Collezioni jackets (4th tier above) are fused. At least all the ones I've seen are.
post #18 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by billiebob
The fused line is called "Gian Luca". The Gian Luca line made it into some Paul Stuart suits (I have one from Nitro Pete Testa). These are cut slim, with a lightly padded shoulder. I would rate them up with Ralph Lauren Black Label (which is also fused and very slim).
Current RLBL suits are tailored, not glued. The first-season ones were gluejobs, though. Also, like dah328 I've never seen a tailored Armani Collezioni, though I also haven't looked at them since 2004 or so.
post #19 of 49
Cerruti 1811 suits are not fused either, atleast not the ones here in Europe - might be different in the US models though. The ones here have canvas front but not much handwork (maybe different on models / priceranges)
post #20 of 49
I would move the Borrelli up. There is no way, in my opinion at least, that Barbera/Zegna Napoli/Isaia and even Brioni would be in a class above Borrelli suits. I mean they took one of Kiton's top tailors/designers when they started their suit venture did they not? Borrelli's cut and silhouette remind me a lot of Attolini; they are wonderful suits (yes I am a Borrelli fanboy).

Also Sartoria Attolini I would consider top tier. Some may argue that the quality is less than that of the Cesare Attolini line but I dont belive this to be true. Perhaps someone can chime in on this?
post #21 of 49
I generated a similar list when I started combing the archives. I brought up the idea of coming to some consensus on this sort of thing before wikifying it. It was immediately clear that subjective consensus was impossible. I think objective construction measures are the only thing that can withstand discussion. Disclaimers aside, here's what I had down in case anybody's interested: 0.5st Tier: Attolini, Oxxford, Kiton 1st Tier: Attolini/Sartorio, Attolini/Sartoria, Isaia/Gianluca, Brioni, Zegna/Napoli, Isaia/Enrico 2nd Tier: Boss/Baldessarini, Canali/Exclusive, Ralph Lauren/Purple Label, Belvest, Barbera, Borrelli, D'Avenza, Pal Zileri/Sartoriale, Cantarelli, Ravazzolo, Nervesa, Castangia, Cifonelli, St. Andrews 2.5th Tier: Hickey Freeman, Neiman Marcus/Marcus, Donna Karan/Couture 3rd Tier: Armani/Classico, Canali, Zegna/Ermenegildo, Pal Zileri, Armani/Black Label, Vestimenta, Samuelsohn 3.5th Tier: Cerruti/1881 (not Nina), Corneliani, Gucci 4th Tier: Armani/Collezioni, Ralph Lauren/Polo, Pal Zileri/Gruppo, Armani/Emporio 5th Tier: Armani/Mani, Boss/Boss, Canali/Proposta, Pal Zileri/Pull, Zegna/Soft, Strellson, Isaia/Napoli 6th Tier: Ralph Lauren/others
post #22 of 49
i'm a little confused on the tier rankings...what tier would the AVERAGE man's suit in the USA be considered? 7th, 8th tier?
post #23 of 49
I see the list is based on an old ranking I did a few years back. But a lot of stuff got mixed up...


Premiere
Attolini
Kiton
Oxxford

Also Premiere (what differentiates these from the 1st tier suits?)
Barbera (Luciano) Collezioni Sartoriale
Bijan (there are some by Brioni)(and Isaia, D'Avenza, Kiton etc.)
Brioni
Dior homme (not premiere)
Isaia (Enrico and most Gianluca)
Sartoria (Sartorio?) Attolini
Zegna Napoli

1st Tier (canvas front, basted lapels, handpicked lapel edges, and handsewn buttonholes)
Battistoni
Belvest (no handsewn buttonholes)
Borrelli
Castangia
Cheshire Clothing (Chester Barrie)
Cifonelli (no handsewn buttonholes)
D'Avenza
Stuart’s Choice (Isiah until 06, St Andrews post 06)(actually they tested Saint Andrews as early as 02, as well as Caruso)
Ralph Lauren Purple Label (both the Saint Andrews and the Chester Barrie)
St. Andrews
Zegna (regular and Napoli lines - not the "Soft" suits) (no handsewn buttonholes)
Caruso (some,)
Hickey Freeman (some)

2nd Tier (canvas front, basted lapels, handpicked lapel edges, no handsewn buttonholes)
Boss Baldessarini (made by Caruso)
Canali and Canali Exclusive
Cantarelli
Caruso
Corneliani
old Faconnable Tailleur (made by Canali and Cantarelli)
Ralph Lauren Polo Blue Label (currently made by Canali, older by Corneliani) (fused)
Nervesa
Ravazzolo
Zileri sartoriale line

3d Tier (should be 4th tier) (canvas front but no other significant detailing)
Armani Classico and Black Label (made by Vestimenta)
Canali Proposta
Corneliani Trend and CC (fused)
Polo Blue Label (made in Italy) (fused)
Samuelsohn - Canada
Paul Stuart (made in Canada by Samuelson)
Vestimenta
Zileri Gruppo Forall [white label]

4th Tier (should be 3rd tier) (canvas front and handsewn buttonholes but without handpicked lapels)
Armani Collezioni (not canvassed, no handsewn buttonholes)
Hickey Freeman (most)
Martin Greenman (the Marcus Neiman Marcus line and the old Donna Karan Couture suits are examples)

Anyways, I suppose a list like this is useful in listing the detailing of particular brands for those buying online, but other than that I'm not sure how much use it is going to be.
post #24 of 49
I came to this expecting a discussion about suits pinned on mannequins to exaggerate their waist suppression...

But it seems like a useful ranking, although I'm with the S&D brigade to a degree that fit and cut are of primary importance.
post #25 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faded501s View Post
2nd Tier (canvas front, basted lapels, handpicked lapel edges, no handsewn buttonholes)
Ralph Lauren Polo Blue Label (currently made by Canali, older by Corneliani)
Zileri sartoriale line

I bought 1 suit and 1 jacket RL POLO blue based on this list and they were both fused....

And also placing PZ sartoriale and RL POLO blue on the same Tier is just nonsense....


Jared's list looks more accurate
post #26 of 49
For starters I would put quality bespoke tailoring way above all of these labels mentioned.

I also find it totally bizarre that Zegna Napoli and Sartoria Attolini are lumped together. Sartora Attolini is so much better than anything I have ever seen by Zegna it is not funny. Brioni for all it faults is also way better than anything by Zegna.
post #27 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by lakewolf View Post
I bought 1 suit and 1 jacket RL POLO blue based on this list and they were both fused....

And also placing PZ sartoriale and RL POLO blue on the same Tier is just nonsense....


This is my experience as well. The last time I stopped by a RL store I noticed that the RLBL coats were all fused. I think it is above average quality fusing because it feels less stiff than the really cheap and nasty stuff but it is still fused.
post #28 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by lakewolf View Post
Jared's list looks more accurate
Thanks! I started with Harris' list and then made changes based on my interpretation of what I read in the archives. As Sator demonstrates, eventually I lost interest.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickonatree View Post
i'm a little confused on the tier rankings...what tier would the AVERAGE man's suit in the USA be considered? 7th, 8th tier?
Probably 6th or 7th. I'm not sure it gets much worse than RL/Lauren and RL/Chaps construction?
post #29 of 49
Greetings,

Where would S. Cohen and Coppley fit in this--via local Harold's?

Would they be preferable or inferior to Hickey Freeman?

CH
post #30 of 49
Additionally, where would Brooks Brothers fall?

CH
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