Originally Posted by Rinku Arora
tell me what is the goodyear welted for you means : is goodyearwleted is the only done by machine
machime came later it was done by hand since times it is now done by hand and machine
i have my own factory where we do welting in shoes by hand and we are planning to take machine .
Yes, "Goodyear welting" is a machine process. It was named after Charles Goodyear who invented the machine to take the place of traditional hand welting and make the job faster, less labour intensive, less expensive, and reduce the need for skilled (and highly paid) workers.
Compared to traditional hand welting the results are always inferior...partially because Goodyear machines use a chain stitch whereas hand welting is a "shoemaker's stitch." Partially because, in modern usage, the inseam is sewn to a canvas rib known as "gemming" which is glued to the insole. And partially because, at bottom, Goodyear construction relies on the glue more than the stitching.
Other factors which affect overall quality are that both thickness and the quality of the insole. Many modern Goodyear shoes don't use leather insoles at all anymore but substitute paperboard or, depending on availability, perhaps "leatherboard." If you look carefully at every company who ever started as a hand welted workshop and went to a Goodyear or machine-centric operation such expediencies and compromises appear to be almost inevitable. The philosophy...indeed, the inescapable business
logic...seems to always come down to: "Why pay more for good quality leather when glue and canvas and a brainless construction methods make leather too expensive and too labour intensive?"
Prior to the late 1800's...when the Goodyear machine was invented...welting a shoe was just "inseaming". It wasn't called Goodyear, it wasn't called anything except "inseaming." Today some people wrongly conflate Goodyear welting with hand welting--I've even seen the term "Hand Sewn Goodyear" bandied about. That's a meaningless concept and technically a wrong and wrong-headed one. Some folks do inseam using gemming and glue but by definition Goodyear uses a Goodyear stitching machine.
And, BTW, it's not just
what "Goodyear welted" means to me
(although I've been making Traditionally inseamed, bespoke shoes and boots, full time, for over 40 years)--what I've described above is what Goodyear Welted means to the Trade
Anything else is gibberish.
--Edited by DWFII - 10/10/13 at 7:09am