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Sagely Sartorial Advice from Luciano Barbera

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMonkey View Post

If more members just read and absorbed this for a while, there would be a lot fewer pointless arguments in SF MC...


Inspired by a recent thread, and taking off from another thread, the following could describe most people's sartorial evolution . . .

Why reinvent the wheel? Build from there instead. Take what you will, and leave the rest . . .


Q&A with Luciano Barbera

Q: Are there any style combinations that you object to?

Yes, wearing jeans for any occasion.


Q: Please describe your style in three words.

Sober, classic, but modern.


Q: What is the biggest mistake one can make when getting dressed?

To dress for others and not for yourself.


Q: Do you believe in role models?

If it has to do with ethics and behaving correctly, yes.


Q: What are your favourite fabrics?

A fulled fabric for winter, and linen and wool canvasses in summertime.


Q: Which city has the best-dressed men?

Milano, of course.


Q: Would you say that you are conservative or bold?

Neither.


Q: What are the rules, if any, in the way you dress?

I want to please myself; that’s it.


Q: Celebrities and style…

Unfortunately, this is a combination that very often only leads to boorishness.


Q: One garment/accessory that you can never have enough of?

Suits in carded flannel and ties.


Q: Who taught you what you know about style?

A good tailor, a good shirtmaker, a good shoemaker, and the presumption of believing in myself.


Q: How do you select your clothing every morning?

Following my mood, and in relation with what I have to do during the day.


Q: Do you have any shopping rituals?

I only look for what I would like to have in that specific moment.


Q: We will never see you wearing…

…white socks and sandals!


Q: The most stylish person you have ever seen…

There is more than one, so I won’t name them in order not to wrong anybody.


Q: What is the first thing you notice on a man?

The shoes they’re wearing.


Q: What are the most treasured items in your wardrobe?

My carded flannel suits in their grey and blue nuances.


Q: Is comfort an enemy of style?

Not at all. A stylish and elegant man wears what he wears because he seeks comfort.


Q: Which designer never fails to impress you?

Ralph Lauren.


Q: Who would you like to see next in “My style”?

My daughter Carola Barbera.


Q: The best word of advice you have ever heard?

‘Sprezzatura,’ which literally means detachment or understatement.



- M
post #2 of 18
^^^^ Amazing insight. Thank you for posting it.
post #3 of 18
His positive comments on Ralph Lauren are quite an endorsement.
To me, Lauren's project over the past forty years has been to mine
the various Anglo/Ivy styles from the 30s to the 60s and market them
to the patrician- emulators, myself included. Maybe Barbera is doing the
same but with an "Italian accent".
post #4 of 18
If Vox were here, he would tell you "Luciano Barbera tells you to suck it".
post #5 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post

If Vox were here, he would tell you "Luciano Barbera tells you to suck it".

Why did FCorb go off the air?
post #6 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post

If Vox were here, he would tell you "Luciano Barbera tells you to suck it".

^ Actually, he would say, "Nice try, smalltimers. Now f*ck off."

smile.gif

- M
post #7 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Why did FCorb go off the air?

Off the air? Not so. In fact, FC/Vox seems to be channeling my remarks.
His photo of Signor Barbera could well be a Polo ad, except for the
Maestro's age and the Fiat (500?) windshield:

http://www.voxsartoria.com/
post #8 of 18
Thread Starter 
^ Hmmm, he's in monitoring mode . . .


tumblrlmury6y5jc1qbjcuj.gif


- M
post #9 of 18
What's carded flannel?
post #10 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by joonian View Post

What's carded flannel?

Wool is "carded" or combed to separate the fibers. I assume the translation is garbled but is meant to convey a flannel with a lot of texture.
post #11 of 18
In that case, I love that shit too.
post #12 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by saint View Post

Wool is "carded" or combed to separate the fibers. I assume the translation is garbled but is meant to convey a flannel with a lot of texture.

Probably more nap than texture. I think of tweed(s) as having texture.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flannel
post #13 of 18
Since we are on the topic of advice, Andrea Perrone, former CEO of Brioni, also has some nice things to say about Italian style.

Q: How do you define style?

Style is something you’ve got inside. You can appear elegant and stylish even with a pair of jeans and a T-shirt, because everything comes from your education and how you behave.

Q: Do you have any rules when it comes to the way you dress? If yes, what are they?

A morning suit should never be black!

Color is acceptable for shirt and or ties.

Black shoes should never be worn with a brown suit.

It is a must to wear a tie with a suit.
Every gentleman must own a blue blazer and grey pants (you can play easily with a fancy shirt, with or without ties, for the informal moment; with a shirt with classic ties in any formal occasion… It’s a jolly!).

Formal shoes should always be worn with socks (I wear socks even with boat shoes).

A tie’s knot should never be too big or wide.

For an evening suit, plain blue or charcoal grey with a white shirt (in this case I love to wear colorful ties).

Always wear a tuxedo when there is a black tie code.

Q: What are your favorite fabrics?

For knitwear: silk cashmere. For coat and jacket: cashmere in winter and superlight wool in summer. For tie: shining silk.

Q: Are there any combinations that you you do not feel comfortable in trying?

A sleeveless shirt with a jacket.

Q: If there is one article of clothing that a man needs to pay close attention to, it has to be…

Let’s summarize saying that the main rule is “never be excessive”: from tip to toe, the whole should be harmonic related to the moment of the day.

Q: If we could generalize it, which city has the best-dressed men?

I think nowadays it’s difficult to generalize because you can find “the best” in different places and countries. We live in a world of globetrotters.

Q: What is the first thing you notice on a man?

A part of the total look which represents the first impact: accessories. They are the most important things. Above all, shoes (in terms of chromatic choice) and ties (for the sense of taste on choosing them).

Q: Would you say that you are conservative or bold?

Let’s say both, in different percentages. I am conservative but I could be bold in some details.

Q: One garment/accessory that you can never have enough of?

Ties.

Q: A man should always look like…

A man.
post #14 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by harryx2 View Post

Since we are on the topic of advice, Andrea Perrone, former CEO of Brioni, also has some nice things to say about Italian style.
Q: How do you define style?
Style is something you’ve got inside. You can appear elegant and stylish even with a pair of jeans and a T-shirt, because everything comes from your education and how you behave.
Q: Do you have any rules when it comes to the way you dress? If yes, what are they?
A morning suit should never be black!
Color is acceptable for shirt and or ties.
Black shoes should never be worn with a brown suit.
It is a must to wear a tie with a suit.
Every gentleman must own a blue blazer and grey pants (you can play easily with a fancy shirt, with or without ties, for the informal moment; with a shirt with classic ties in any formal occasion… It’s a jolly!).
Formal shoes should always be worn with socks (I wear socks even with boat shoes).
A tie’s knot should never be too big or wide.
For an evening suit, plain blue or charcoal grey with a white shirt (in this case I love to wear colorful ties).
Always wear a tuxedo when there is a black tie code.
Q: What are your favorite fabrics?
For knitwear: silk cashmere. For coat and jacket: cashmere in winter and superlight wool in summer. For tie: shining silk.
Q: Are there any combinations that you you do not feel comfortable in trying?
A sleeveless shirt with a jacket.
Q: If there is one article of clothing that a man needs to pay close attention to, it has to be…
Let’s summarize saying that the main rule is “never be excessive”: from tip to toe, the whole should be harmonic related to the moment of the day.
Q: If we could generalize it, which city has the best-dressed men?
I think nowadays it’s difficult to generalize because you can find “the best” in different places and countries. We live in a world of globetrotters.
Q: What is the first thing you notice on a man?
A part of the total look which represents the first impact: accessories. They are the most important things. Above all, shoes (in terms of chromatic choice) and ties (for the sense of taste on choosing them).
Q: Would you say that you are conservative or bold?
Let’s say both, in different percentages. I am conservative but I could be bold in some details.
Q: One garment/accessory that you can never have enough of?
Ties.
Q: A man should always look like…
A man.

 

Even the best get it wrong from time to time.

-Perrone: Socks with boat shoes 

-Barbera: Jeans are never acceptable

 

Maybe if you're 70+. Socks with boat shoes.....uhoh.gif

post #15 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

Off the air? Not so. In fact, FC/Vox seems to be channeling my remarks.
His photo of Signor Barbera could well be a Polo ad, except for the
Maestro's age and the Fiat (500?) windshield:
http://www.voxsartoria.com/

Renault 4, I suspect.

I like the advice of these two wealthy Italian men whose livelihood is based around clothes, but I suspect that, because I am in fact an art student from the 'burbs, I shouldn't take it nearly as seriously as they do.
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