10 suit wardrobe

Reanimating this thread. I recently asked for advice in the unfunded liabilities thread about building my suit wardrobe again and was pointed here. This thread has been very informative. FWIW, I moved from buy-side c-suite to a partner at a law firm.

In addition to all my odd jackets, here is where I am at the moment, all single-breasted:

Warm weather:

Minnis Fresco 0520 RAF Blue
Minnis Fresco 0511 Mid-grey
Minnis Fresco 05-something Charcoal
Minnis Fresco 0518 Brown

Cooler weather:

Gladson Super 120s Charcoal
C.Barbera for H.Lesser flannelish sharkskin Mid-grey
Harrison’s Fine Classics Dark Navy birdseye

Any suggestions for the next 2-3? I’m curious about a Wain Shiell Navy Oxford cloth I saw at my tailor. Also tempted to complete the Minnis Fresco Grand Tour and get a 0516 Navy. I tend to favor solids with texture. Not really a pinstripe guy, but I like open windowpanes and have a few sport coats with windowpane.

Why are we talking so much about seasonal suits? I would recommend thinking less in terms of season, and more in terms of pattern/ color.

I live in a four season climate, but I work in an office where the temperature is constant throughout the year. In the winter, I spend very little time getting to my car and out of my car to get to the office, so I can just adjust my outerwear depending on the weather severity.

In the summer, it is not too difficult to tolerate the heat in between the air-conditioned office and the air-conditioned car...

I realize some some people might need to spend more time outdoors during their work or commute, but still...these days, almost everywhere indoors is adequatley heated or air-conditioned.

The keep a more streamlined, minimal, economical suit wardrobe, I like stick with 4-season weights. You can get away with 5 suits if you do this (one wearing per week).

Also, it depends on your complexion. If you have a warm complexion, you can work in some brown or tan. If you have a cool complexion, go with navy or grey.

Living in Pennsylvania, I currently have (from Ring Jacket/Armoury):
1. Charcoal wool flannel DB
2. Navy blue wool/mohair blend SB
3. Blue wool solid puppy tooth SB
4. Blue slate solid SB
5. Mid-Grey Nailhead SB

I think more pictures in this thread would be helpful:

^^^ I don’t disagree, but I live in NYC, and walk a great deal, as well as take the sweltering subway, so thinking about warmer weather suiting is a necessity. But the reality is that I’m fine in Minnis Fresco in all but the coldest months, so I get at least three season wear out of them.

I like that slate blue solid. Fabric?

CDRMC said:

Why are we talking so much about seasonal suits? I would recommend thinking less in terms of season, and more in terms of pattern/ color.

I live in a four season climate, but I work in an office where the temperature is constant throughout the year. In the winter, I spend very little time getting to my car and out of my car to get to the office, so I can just adjust my outerwear depending on the weather severity.

In the summer, it is not too difficult to tolerate the heat in between the air-conditioned office and the air-conditioned car...

I realize some some people might need to spend more time outdoors during their work or commute, but still...these days, almost everywhere indoors is adequatley heated or air-conditioned.

The keep a more streamlined, minimal, economical suit wardrobe, I like stick with 4-season weights. You can get away with 5 suits if you do this (one wearing per week).

Also, it depends on your complexion. If you have a warm complexion, you can work in some brown or tan. If you have a cool complexion, go with navy or grey.

Living in Pennsylvania, I currently have (from Ring Jacket/Armoury):
1. Charcoal wool flannel DB
2. Navy blue wool/mohair blend SB
3. Blue wool solid puppy tooth SB
4. Blue slate solid SB
5. Mid-Grey Nailhead SB

I think more pictures in this thread would be helpful:

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@CDRMC

I agree and disagree with your thesis.

If you’re looking to build a strictly “utilitarian” wardrobe where economy and optimization are priorities then yes, you make a good point.

You however overlook the purpose of a well laid out seasonal wardrobe. Having gone down that path myself and building a seasonal wardrobe, one can see the beauty, if not functionality of it.

When you start getting into fabrics, your eyes are opened to a world of texture and the limitless opportunity for good sensible ideas. Whether it be Linen in summer or flannel/cords in winter. Flat worsteds begin to look very sophomoric and boring once you venture into seasonal wear.

In practice, there is no such thing as a 3-season fabric much less 4-season.

Alan Bee

Let’s see if we can bring this thread back to life. Re-upping this here because I think it’s an interesting thread to look back on for a few reasons.

First, with the talk of casualization it’s a pretty interesting thing to think about building out and refining a tailoring collection and look back ten years at what was appropriate/suggested and what may fit now.

Second, I’m working on refining my wardrobe and going through this exact exercise at the moment. As a result of collecting too much over the years, seeing clothing sit and rarely be worn, losing my spare closet and trying to focus on what truly makes me happy, I’m working on determining what stays, what goes, and what gets upgraded.

If nothing else, maybe writing this out will give me some clarity.

I’ve come to the realization that 10 suits isn’t going to do it for me. I live in a true four season climate and wear suits regularly. I am trying to get down to 15 though and struggling to settle on it and keep feeling like I’m missing something.

I’m excluding dinner jackets and my black tie rig from the total.

Summer:
1. Navy LP WSL
2. Navy check Dormeuil WS
3. Navy wool/silk LP seersucker
4. Tobacco Hellard linen
5? Navy linen - TBD - Front runner: Mersolaire

Spring/“year round”
1. Navy Ascot 4 Ply
2. Navy glenplaid with overcheck
3. Mid gray sharkskin
4. Charcoal VBC perennial
5. Navy pinstripe high twist

Winter:
1. Navy chalkstripe
2. LL RAF Agnelli Windowpane Tweed
3. Navy solid worsted flannel
4. Charcoal solid worsted flannel
5. Charcoal plaid worsted flannel

Looking at the list I feel pretty good about it but can’t help feeling like I’d be missing:

1. Light gray POW - Likely summer weight.
2. Darker summer weight gray for somber events
3. Something in taupe (4 ply makes the best one I think) or another brown

Is a 10 suit collection even still practical in our world? Are jackets now king?

Here's mine:

I think I should focus on jackets next. This is a list of my bespoke stuff, I still have a lot of RTW that will slowly get replaced. I live in south Texas btw.

I gave up wearing tailoring in the summer. So my list is biased towards the 3 other seasons.
My current trajectory, less the garments I plan to relieve from their duty.

Suits:
1. Grey Taupe Drapers 6ply Ivy style
2. Dark Navy Bower Roebuck Mohair Silk
3. Navy T&L Worsted Flannel (Double breasted) British tailoring
4. Grey Covert / Cavalry Twill ? (Single / Double)
5. Something vintage


Spring / Fall Jackets:
1. Blue Shadow Glencheck Fox 2-ply fabric not released yet
2. Olive Spring Ram 2-ply
3. Navy Woodhouse Original 6-ply (Double breasted) vintage
4. Beige, silver, blue, green Guncheck Cashmere vintage
5. Glencheck of some sorts? High twist?

Winter Jackets:
1. Reddish Brown Carnet Tweed vintage
2. Grove Green Tweed vintage
3. Moss Green, Amber Fox Tweed Windowpane Deco
4. Brown w/ Red Windowpane London Lounge Tweed
5. Navy Standeven Flannel (Double breasted)

might as well bump this one

Fall Winter Workhorse
1. Charcoal Herringbone Double Breasted Worsted 14-15oz
2. Solid Navy double breasted Worsted 12-13oz

Fall Winter Spring (3 season) Workhorse
3. Mid Gray Pick and Pick Worsted SB 3p 13oz
4. Air force Blue Tropical Plain Weave SB 3p 13oz

Spring Summer Fall (3 season) workhorse
5. Charcoal Pin Dot 11-12 tropical Plain weave SB 3p
6. Solid Navy 10-11oz tropical plain weave SB 3p

Spring Summer
7. Mid Gray Hairline Weave tropical wool 2p 9-10oz
8. Air force blue tropical plain weave 2p 9-10oz

Year round Casual suits with patch pockets
9. French Navy/Dark Blue 4-6p ply tropical plain weave 14-15oz
10. light Gray sporty Textured weave/pattern worsted 2p 9-10oz

You don't need this many suits!!!!

lordsuperb said:

You don't need this many suits!!!!

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The list of physiological needs in Maslow's hierarchy:

• Air
• Water
• Food
• Heat
• Clothes, including at least 10 suits
• Reproduction
• Shelter
• Sleep

I don't make the rules.

Sreezy36 said:

might as well bump this one

Fall Winter Workhorse
1. Charcoal Herringbone Double Breasted Worsted 14-15oz
2. Solid Navy double breasted Worsted 12-13oz

Fall Winter Spring (3 season) Workhorse
3. Mid Gray Pick and Pick Worsted SB 3p 13oz
4. Air force Blue Tropical Plain Weave SB 3p 13oz

Spring Summer Fall (3 season) workhorse
5. Charcoal Pin Dot 11-12 tropical Plain weave SB 3p
6. Solid Navy 10-11oz tropical plain weave SB 3p

Spring Summer
7. Mid Gray Hairline Weave tropical wool 2p 9-10oz
8. Air force blue tropical plain weave 2p 9-10oz

Year round Casual suits with patch pockets
9. French Navy/Dark Blue 4-6p ply tropical plain weave 14-15oz
10. light Gray sporty Textured weave/pattern worsted 2p 9-10oz

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Wait. There's only one double breasted suit on the list. Some of us have more - many more.

lordsuperb said:

You don't need this many suits!!!!

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Can't I have my "make believe" list in peace. Damn!!

Besides, the only suit that any really will ever need is a Bad Boy 97 Shiny suit.

ppk said:

Wait. There's only one double breasted suit on the list. Some of us have more - many more.

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Got 2 fam. 1 DB is for Lames.

2 or more DB's is Big man Ting..ya get me!!

Sreezy36 said:

Can't I have my "make believe" list in peace. Damn!!

Besides, the only suit that any really will ever need is a Bad Boy 97 Shiny suit.



Got 2 fam. 1 DB is for Lames.

2 or more DB's is Big man Ting..ya get me!!

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Umm. Asking for a friend - how about 5?