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Please help me find higher raise pants

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
The only existing thread with the same problem produces unsatisfactory results.

Basically, I am about to transition from frustration to full on rage ffffuuuu.gif - the current trend of low raise pants makes no sense from any angle: it looks bad/sloppy/childish, its uncomfortable, and the shirts get easily untucked. I hate it but I've been unable to find pants with a sensible raise (even at supposedly stodgy places like brooks bros and jos bank)

One exception are the Epaulet pants, which have a nice 12.5" rise, but unfortunately the overall cut is terrible - they are clearly meant to be worn by anorexic hipsters, rather than average guys (I'm not a single pound overweight or disproportionate in any way, yet their pants are just tight and uncomfortable). Please suggest alternatives frown.gif Thank you biggrin.gif
post #2 of 16
In my experiemce...High rise:

Oxxford, highest in OTR pants.
Zegna
Chester Barre
Zanella
Incotex, their 100+ wool dress pants
Ralph Lauren Blue Label
And there is always bespoke....

Regards.
post #3 of 16
I have the same problem. I have some mass in my lower body due to a sports background. Moreover, my legs are also quite short , and low rise pants make them look ridiculously so. Fortunately, I recently stumbled on some Zegna pants at a heavy discount, and lo and behold, realised that high rise pants actually look good on me. They have enough material on the backside to cover my rear and also help to hide the fact that I have legs like a duck.

Anywho, what about some other brands, any comments on the following:
Panta
Cucinelli
Barbera
Borrelli
Kiton
Isaia
Valentini
Germano
Rota
post #4 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by SamSpade View Post

The only existing thread with the same problem produces unsatisfactory results.
Basically, I am about to transition from frustration to full on rage ffffuuuu.gif - the current trend of low raise pants makes no sense from any angle: it looks bad/sloppy/childish, its uncomfortable, and the shirts get easily untucked. I hate it but I've been unable to find pants with a sensible raise (even at supposedly stodgy places like brooks bros and jos bank)
One exception are the Epaulet pants, which have a nice 12.5" rise, but unfortunately the overall cut is terrible - they are clearly meant to be worn by anorexic hipsters, rather than average guys (I'm not a single pound overweight or disproportionate in any way, yet their pants are just tight and uncomfortable). Please suggest alternatives frown.gif Thank you biggrin.gif

Have you tried to size up in the Walt's? Ie, if you are a 32 buy the 34?

I have an athletes body and I found sizing up in the Walts and then having them taken in works fine.

Your quads are over 24'?

post #5 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankie22 View Post

Have you tried to size up in the Walt's? Ie, if you are a 32 buy the 34?
I have an athletes body and I found sizing up in the Walts and then having them taken in works fine.
Your quads are over 24'?
Any reason you chose to size up in the Walts rather than go to the Rudys? I'm looking into buying a pair next season and would appreciate any advice. This may also be of interest to the OP, as the Rudys are 2" larger in the thigh, while seemingly very similar in fit the rest of the way. Thanks.
post #6 of 16
Thread Starter 
HI, I tried both the Walts and the Rudys in my true size. While the Rudys are indeed marginally roomier, the cut is basically the same and i still had to have my tailor let out the crotch and the thighs; this makes them workable, though not for extended period of time, since 1) there isn't that much slack to let out and 2) it's kinda moot, because they no longer offer them

I'll probably give it a try sizing up the Walts since these are overall okay pants, it's jst kind of sad that for all the purported renaissance in mens clothing, overwhelming majority of choices are stuck in a particuular paradigm that has some major issues . I have to admit that the Epaulets look pretty decent - as long as you don't move at all. Once you do, you start to feel constricted in a way that shouldn't be an issue in quality clothing. (And again - I don't have overly huge thighs,butt, or you know what smile.gif, so that's not an issue of non-standard build)
post #7 of 16
Thread Starter 
Mikael, the part of your list I am familiar with is not going to help: panta, kiton, borelli and issaia all have sub 11" rises in recent years. DK about the others.
post #8 of 16
Just had a look at Epaulet's web store. 48 pairs of trousers, 47 of which were in the Walt fit. censored.gif
post #9 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by SamSpade View Post

Mikael, the part of your list I am familiar with is not going to help: panta, kiton, borelli and issaia all have sub 11" rises in recent years. DK about the others.

This is nice info - thanks! Don't have to waste my money ordering a pair of Panta's and then paying for the return...
post #10 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by SamSpade View Post

HI, I tried both the Walts and the Rudys in my true size. While the Rudys are indeed marginally roomier, the cut is basically the same and i still had to have my tailor let out the crotch and the thighs; this makes them workable, though not for extended period of time, since 1) there isn't that much slack to let out and 2) it's kinda moot, because they no longer offer them
I'll probably give it a try sizing up the Walts since these are overall okay pants, it's jst kind of sad that for all the purported renaissance in mens clothing, overwhelming majority of choices are stuck in a particuular paradigm that has some major issues . I have to admit that the Epaulets look pretty decent - as long as you don't move at all. Once you do, you start to feel constricted in a way that shouldn't be an issue in quality clothing. (And again - I don't have overly huge thighs,butt, or you know what smile.gif, so that's not an issue of non-standard build)

 

I have decent size legs and a prominent seat, tied to a 32' waist. I'm not a bodybuilder, but years of squats and running for sports built up my legs quit a bit (for my size anyway). If your quads are not over 23' your problem should be solved by going up 2 sizes and seeing a competent tailor. The end result produces a nice fit with the highest rise you will find RTW.

post #11 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankie22 View Post

I have decent size legs and a prominent seat, tied to a 32' waist. I'm not a bodybuilder, but years of squats and running for sports built up my legs quit a bit (for my size anyway). If your quads are not over 24' your problem should be solved by going up 2 sizes and seeing a competent tailor. The end result produces a nice fit with the highest rise you will find RTW.

Any tips for 25" thighs tied to a 34" waist? (I'm not quitting squats to fit into these chicken-legs-fit pants everybody's wearing nowadays)
post #12 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by HughJ View Post


Any reason you chose to size up in the Walts rather than go to the Rudys? I'm looking into buying a pair next season and would appreciate any advice. This may also be of interest to the OP, as the Rudys are 2" larger in the thigh, while seemingly very similar in fit the rest of the way. Thanks.

 

There are only a couple Rudy options.

 

I have muscular legs and a prominent seat, but a somewhat slender frame if that makes sense. At any rate, if your quads are 23' or under, the walts will work fine by sizing up. I wear a 32 waist, sized up to a 34, and had my tailor make adjustments. The end result was exactly what I was after: a slim fit trouser with a high rise.

post #13 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikael View Post


Any tips for 25" thighs tied to a 34" waist? (I'm not quitting squats to fit into these chicken-legs-fit pants everybody's wearing nowadays)

I would look into having a tailor create some trousers for you.  It might be the only way to get what you are after. The walts are going to be to small for your quads.

post #14 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by SamSpade View Post

I'll probably give it a try sizing up the Walts since these are overall okay pants,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankie22 View Post

There are only a couple Rudy options.

Ah, thanks Frankie. I've been told that they will be restocking their selection in September, though I'm not sure if this will be just Walts or both. Sam, if I'm reading the chart correctly, the sized up Walts will still be 1" smaller than TTS Rudys, so if Rudys again become an option, they may suit you better.

Edit: I contacted them, and the Rudy is indeed discontinued.
Edited by HughJ - 8/9/12 at 11:56am
post #15 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by HughJ View Post

Edit: I contacted them, and the Rudy is indeed discontinued.

Infuriating. It seems that all brands are doing this. Canali's suits used to have more of a regular cut, but recent models are too tight for me. Moreover, I heard from a tailor that sometimes thigh fit can be fixed by letting the trousers out a bit at the side seams - but this requires that the trousers have some extra on the leg, which is of course one of the first things the manufacturers eliminate when trying to minimize costs. According to the same tailor, Zegna's pants used to have this, but nowadays most of Zegna's odd pants are produced in a factory in Portugal, and the extra cloth is no longer there.

Where I live, MTM will run about $400. Luckily, I'll visit Hong Kong in December, where I'll be able to get bespoke (WW Chan) for the same price. Guess I'll just have to make do with a very small trouser wardrobe (1-2 pair)...
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