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Bespoke Suits in HK - Page 2

post #16 of 37
Not sure how good they are, but this mob was covered in 'The Rake'. Apparently, Louis Koo has his suits done here. Also, in the article, they quoted $5000HKD and up.

http://www.dmarge.com/2011/04/il-sarto-mens-tailor-hong-kong.html

Cheers!
post #17 of 37
A good bespoke suit will feel nothing when the wearer puts it on. I have Lee's product and their construction feels strong, probably due to the use of heavy canvass e.g. Horsehair.

More money also means better finish, better fit.

A true softi style will feature low twist cloth, simpler weave construction plus a hand stitched canvass, from the chest though the lapels and all down the waist.
I am pretty sure using English made cloth will not give the softness.

Short shoulders on coat is also important for soft tailoring

When I look at the big Napoli firms they all have rather firm shoulders

Huntmas definitely don't do soft style.
post #18 of 37
BTW I mean firm shoulder as Tom Ford mini padding style, not Nutter 60s shoulder
post #19 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

A good bespoke suit will feel nothing when the wearer puts it on. I have Lee's product and their construction feels strong, probably due to the use of heavy canvass e.g. Horsehair.
More money also means better finish, better fit.
A true softi style will feature low twist cloth, simpler weave construction plus a hand stitched canvass, from the chest though the lapels and all down the waist.
I am pretty sure using English made cloth will not give the softness.
Short shoulders on coat is also important for soft tailoring
When I look at the big Napoli firms they all have rather firm shoulders
Huntmas definitely don't do soft style.

O.K., I agree that Chan use higher quality (or thinner) canvass for their soft style. Chan also put more stitches than Lee. Chan is a step higher than Lee but price is double. I like Chan product too but as a beginner to bespoke, where should he get started for his first suit?
post #20 of 37
For bespoke, just like any other, afford the best you can.
post #21 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by sklim8 View Post

I did research GBR.  However, I felt like I hit a wall/ceiling on my research, and wanted to seek advice. 

Unfortunately, don't have friends who do bespoke - all do designer houses.  One tried Jantzens and liked it, but was not attracted based on posts here.

I excluded Yu and Yao, which are both excellent and around the same price point as Chan.  However, the point of my post is not which is best in the 12K HKD price point, but more of - what am I paying for with the extra 6000 or so from LB to WW Chan. 

If unlimited funds, sure Chan everytime.  But I wanted to do a CBA. 

You surprise me - there are more threads than enough on HK tailors. The message will always be you get what you pay for and the general satisfaction that people here have drawn from Chan, Yao, Yu is surely sufficient for you.
post #22 of 37
Thread Starter 

Thank you very much.  I will look into them as well!

post #23 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

A good bespoke suit will feel nothing when the wearer puts it on. I have Lee's product and their construction feels strong, probably due to the use of heavy canvass e.g. Horsehair.
More money also means better finish, better fit.
A true softi style will feature low twist cloth, simpler weave construction plus a hand stitched canvass, from the chest though the lapels and all down the waist.
I am pretty sure using English made cloth will not give the softness.
Short shoulders on coat is also important for soft tailoring
When I look at the big Napoli firms they all have rather firm shoulders
Huntmas definitely don't do soft style.

Thanks very much for your input.  Your description on the effect of use of softer? canvas definitely makes me want to look into the higher end stuff. 

post #24 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post


You surprise me - there are more threads than enough on HK tailors. The message will always be you get what you pay for and the general satisfaction that people here have drawn from Chan, Yao, Yu is surely sufficient for you.

Hi GBR.  I certainly did not mean to surprise you, and apologies for my ignorance.  Certainly do not mean to annoy you either. 

 

I understand that you will get more for Chan, Yao and Yu than you would for paying less at LB (you get what you pay for).  

 

My question was not really about that, but what the difference was between those three (red gang?) v. LB - i.e. what am I paying for with the extra 6000HKD exactly? I am getting more, but what is that "more"?  Perhaps, as you say, the answers to my questions are already out there.  But I've searched for hours in this forum, and that is where the gap (at least in my readings) was, which I was curious about. 

 

Please don't feel obligated to answer - just trying to explain what my questions were geared towards (which I perhaps may not have stated well enough).  

post #25 of 37
SK, the answer that you seek will not be found in SF, unless there are people here with examples from both tailors. The examples should also be recent as the quality has changed. The examples should also be assuming full fittings since I would hazard a guess that many here have only experienced Chan oversea visit suits which in theory should not fit as well as those in HK that can go for multiple fittings. Since you live in HK why not go to both places and examine their samples. Talk to the tailors and see if they make you feel comfortable. Then you would be in a better position to judge if it is worth it to you.


Word of advice, tailors charge what the market will pay, and if they are extremely busy they will be able to charge more. Not unlike popular brands there is some premium in the brand name as well, so a popular brand you are getting some assurances of the quality and will have to pay for this.
post #26 of 37
You live in Hong Kong?
post #27 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

You live in Hong Kong?

I live in Hong Kong, are you Chinese?
post #28 of 37
Lei ho.
post #29 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillycheese View Post

SK, the answer that you seek will not be found in SF, unless there are people here with examples from both tailors. The examples should also be recent as the quality has changed. The examples should also be assuming full fittings since I would hazard a guess that many here have only experienced Chan oversea visit suits which in theory should not fit as well as those in HK that can go for multiple fittings. Since you live in HK why not go to both places and examine their samples. Talk to the tailors and see if they make you feel comfortable. Then you would be in a better position to judge if it is worth it to you.
Word of advice, tailors charge what the market will pay, and if they are extremely busy they will be able to charge more. Not unlike popular brands there is some premium in the brand name as well, so a popular brand you are getting some assurances of the quality and will have to pay for this.

 

Hi Phillycheese. 

 

Understood and very logical answer.  I guess it is inevitable that I would have to end up doing some trial and error.  :)  My goal was to minimize that error by getting as much info as possible, go to the one I felt was best (based on information gathered) and hope that one sticks.  If I'm happy, I'll just keep going back.  

 

I guess looking back, it's obvious my other motive was to check which price point was my "sweet spot".  Of course I will get more with Chan, but would I have been happy with LB (i.e. as a newbie, does it make sense to pay 6000 more for something I can't/don't even appreciate).  

 

In the end, I'm just trying to cheat a bit with all your knowledge/experience, but I know I'll have to put the money down at some point.  :)   

post #30 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Classic Car View Post

I live in Hong Kong, are you Chinese?

鈴鐺清楚叮噹

Well you get me
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