Even the most casual observer of Japanese fashion will usually come to the conclusion that although men ostensibly dress in suits like their European and American brothers, something different is going on. Closer examination is even more intriguing; modern Japanese menswear somehow uses the suit as its emblem and sartorial workhorse, but it does so for almost none of the reasons usually considered part of the orthodoxy of fashion theory and upon which the explanations of the sequence and causality in mens fashion rest.
Japan was unique in its experience of adopting, appropriating, and restyling foreign clothes because it did so without colonization and before extensive industrialization. Furthermore, almost none of the factors traditionally attributed to the refinement of the most common and long-lasting of male dress forms can be applied in the Japanese case. The class arrangements and political revolutions had little equivalence to the French-revolutionary-born sartorial codes based on bourgeois demonstration of wealth without aristocratic ostentation.
Elites’s size and response to modernity were entirely different. European and American religious reforms and their clothing expressions were irrelevant, and gender relations were differently demarcated and thus reformed in wholly different ways...
This is good.
It's teasing me, I'm starting to think about how these internal differences influence the way the suit is worn in Japan, its meaning, its interpretation...
And then this happens:
What then precipitated the Japanese response—to the crisis of masculine clothing in modern times—to produce the same solution as in the West? And what does that say about what is universal and what is culturally specific in the aesthetics of masculine clothing in modernity?
— Toby Slade
What seems like it will be an interesting analysis makes the fatal logical leap to turn into some weird advocacy.
Why does the MC writer constantly feel the need to justify himself?
This attempt to infer some type of universal superiority of a class of clothing over others is not only pathetic, it's also incredibly frustrating.
When it looks good, and when it's natural - which it can be, even if it's completely out of context - noone is going to argue against the beauty of tailored clothing.Source
EDIT: After googling the writer, it seems he's actually a fashion professor in Tokyo.
I just don't understand why he would make this leap. He's talking critically, he's presenting something, and then he feels this sudden urge to make this implication.
It must be taken out of context.