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MC General Chat - Page 36

post #526 of 2117
MCers - Is it ok that I think I prefer single vent over side vents?

It's something that I'm considering for when I eventually go bespoke. As much as I feel that side vents are the interweb-approved option, every jacket I own has felt better when it's centre-vented. OTOH, that could be coincidental and more related to fit.

I know it's not historically true, but I do feel as though centre vents feel more SC-y, and side vents ever so slightly more formal.
post #527 of 2117
Thread Starter 
Center vents are definitely more comfortable if you commute by horse. Most of all for the horse, possibly. I approve.
post #528 of 2117
On a non-sack suit suit, would it look weird?
post #529 of 2117
Thread Starter 
I would prefer more vents even if I were in a sack riding something.
post #530 of 2117

I have actually gone for no-vent most of the time with my bespoke orders.  I did it at first because I thought it would silhouette better than vents, I read this is why black-tie wear is often without vents.  But in all honesty I notice little if any difference from when I wear a single or double vented jacket.  Do vents really make that much difference?  I'm starting to think (like with many things) it just comes down to personal aesthetic preference. 

 

I'm currently ordering an overcoat, clearly I'm including a vent in that.

post #531 of 2117
Anyone own a bottle/hunter green blazer? It might look a bit PGA to some people, but I think it would be quite versatile with some patch pockets and texture to the fabric.
post #532 of 2117
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

MCers - Is it ok that I think I prefer single vent over side vents?
 

 

I would say that if you prefer the look, then why not choose the single vent? No-one beyond us clothing nerds notices these things much anyway.

 

I might also suggest that your intended single vent odd jacket would then pair quite naturally with slanted pockets and an outer ticket pocket too, should you already be thinking in that direction.

 

Having said all that, as you cited fit as one of your considerations when choosing between the two, it's worth saying that you shouldn't really notice much difference in the fit itself between the two if you're going bespoke. Both versions will be cut so the cloth lays almost flat - apart from the depth of the folded cloth/lining/etc - regardless of the style. But if you prefer the look & feel of a single vent on an odd jacket, then pick it.

 

Originally Posted by Naka View Post

Anyone own a bottle/hunter green blazer? It might look a bit PGA to some people, but I think it would be quite versatile with some patch pockets and texture to the fabric.

 

I used to have a forest green DB blazer, with enamelled buttons. Frequently got Masters comments here on the board when I wore it (but not IRL, mind you) but I still liked it. I'm not sure I'd ever commission such an item from scratch, but it was surprisingly versatile. I could wear it with almost any outfit that would have otherwise paired well with a navy blazer. The darker the green, the easier it will be to integrate into an existing wardrobe. My forest green shade was about the limit (it was darker than the golfing shade, by way of reference); I suggest if you go this route, get an even darker/richer green (i.e. similar to the shade of dark green you sometimes see in smoking jackets).

post #533 of 2117
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I would prefer more vents even if I were in a sack riding something.

If I were in the sack riding something, I wouldn't be wearing anything at all ;-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Itsuo View Post

I have actually gone for no-vent most of the time with my bespoke orders.  I did it at first because I thought it would silhouette better than vents, I read this is why black-tie wear is often without vents.  But in all honesty I notice little if any difference from when I wear a single or double vented jacket.  Do vents really make that much difference?  I'm starting to think (like with many things) it just comes down to personal aesthetic preference. 

I'm currently ordering an overcoat, clearly I'm including a vent in that.

Single or double vents is personal preference, but I wouldn't go with no vents because unvented jackets bunch up when I sit down. For my overcoat, my tailor insisted on a single vent, based on tradition, IIRC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

...

I used to have a forest green DB blazer, with enamelled buttons. Frequently got Masters comments here on the board when I wore it (but not IRL, mind you) but I still liked it. I'm not sure I'd ever commission such an item from scratch, but it was surprisingly versatile. I could wear it with almost any outfit that would have otherwise paired well with a navy blazer. The darker the green, the easier it will be to integrate into an existing wardrobe. My forest green shade was about the limit (it was darker than the golfing shade, by way of reference); I suggest if you go this route, get an even darker/richer green (i.e. similar to the shade of dark green you sometimes see in smoking jackets).

JLibourel has a green blazer and has written much the same about its versatility. It's apparently just as versatile as navy, but virtually unique (in a good way).
post #534 of 2117
Thread Starter 
In an effort to be helpful and not just a bad comedian, I don't see why single or double vents would be more comfortable. However, double vents are generally favored because they lay better when you sit down, and help retain a clean line when you put your hands in your pocket. I also just think they look better on almost everything but American suits (which don't necessarily have to be sack) and blazers. I'm not sure you can safely swap it around on whatever bespoke commission you'd like either. A jacket that's very Neapolitan in every other detail would look strange with a single vent, for example.
post #535 of 2117
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

In an effort to be helpful and not just a bad comedian, I don't see why single or double vents would be more comfortable. However, double vents are generally favored because they lay better when you sit down, and help retain a clean line when you put your hands in your pocket. I also just think they look better on almost everything but American suits (which don't necessarily have to be sack) and blazers. I'm not sure you can safely swap it around on whatever bespoke commission you'd like either. A jacket that's very Neapolitan in every other detail would look strange with a single vent, for example.

and dinner jackets / tuxedos
post #536 of 2117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post


I might also suggest that your intended single vent odd jacket would then pair quite naturally with slanted pockets and an outer ticket pocket too, should you already be thinking in that direction.


Ah, see that's the thing. I would definitely not go for slanted pockets or a ticket pocket. And I'm considering it for suits as well as sport coats.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

In an effort to be helpful and not just a bad comedian, I don't see why single or double vents would be more comfortable. However, double vents are generally favored because they lay better when you sit down, and help retain a clean line when you put your hands in your pocket. I also just think they look better on almost everything but American suits (which don't necessarily have to be sack) and blazers. I'm not sure you can safely swap it around on whatever bespoke commission you'd like either. A jacket that's very Neapolitan in every other detail would look strange with a single vent, for example.

Yeah, that's the issue I'm worried about.

I would be leaning towards what appears to be (from my internet reading) a Huntsman style cut. It would have strong, roped shoulders, be 1 button, straight pockets with flaps. This is for a suit. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I kinda don't like the way double vents look like a bumflap...
post #537 of 2117
I'd go double vented for a suit like this but I guess you can go single vented if you have such a dislike for side vents
post #538 of 2117
Unlined sleeves fail. This is one of the strangest things I've ever seen.

post #539 of 2117
Most likely white lining of the sleeves coming through the fresco / hopsack weave. I've posted a bout this a couple years ago when it happened to me on a WW Chan commission and I had to send it back to have the lining and canvas dyed.
post #540 of 2117
Interesting. I suppose it makes sense. The white shirt makes it look like you can see right through. I find it hard to believe that Mariano didn't notice this. Especially when he was wearing the jacket to the opening of a new shop. But I suppose it could be inadvertent.

I don't think I've ever seen white lining on a dark, loose weave fabric. Both of my navy frescos have navy lining. I assumed a manufacturer/tailor would realize how transparent the material is naturally and plan accordingly. Guess not so much.
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