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MC General Chat - Page 27

post #391 of 2123

First off, I want to clarify that the "shopping slumming" phrase itself is just a bit of fun and very much tongue-in-cheek. Hope no-one gets offended by it. :)

 

Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

I got a pretty cool and nicely-fitting grey donegal odd jacket (even worse from an SF-perspective, it has a small %age of synthetic fabric) and a classic merino wool navy sweater. Do you guys ever do any "shopping slumming" like this or are you high-end all the way?

This might lead to some head shakes, but more recently I've adopted a loose policy of only paying full price for items that are made for me. Beyond that, I've veered away from the borderline absurd "bells and whistles" of the top-tier OTR makers. I no longer see the utility or charm of a completely handmade garment if it doesn't fit properly. Buying a Kiton shirt because it is completely hand-finished and then taking it to a tailor who will make alterations on a machine seems completely useless.

While I don't currently have the budget (or the time) to go completely bespoke/MTM on all of my work attire, I find myself buying cheaper pieces (or pieces that can be had for a higher discount) as I save for the items that I really need. I've also narrowed my list down of stuff that I need/should be looking for (as stated in an earlier post here).

 

We're on a fairly similar page. I keep a rough mental list of what I'm after; the annual "sartorial reflections/plans" (or whatever it's called) threads we have on SF at New Year's is actually really great for this!

 

However I don't mind paying retail for RTW items whose fit is within an acceptable (to me) deviation from bespoke, regardless of whether that's low-end or high-end RTW. The number of such items/brands is really small though, so the net effect is similar to your principle I suspect. The exception to my RTW rule is where the high-end is expensive enough to get somewhat close to bespoke pricing anyway, in which case I won't buy it unless the styling is absolutely spot-on to what I want. Personally, where this tactic has the most effect on my spending is in blocking any MTM orders. MTM never quite gets me what I want and is expensive enough relative to equivalently fitting RTW that that I've now stopped ordering it, in favour of much rarer bespoke orders instead.

 

Where we're on the exact same page is an increasing level of diffidence towards hand-detailing in clothes (whether in RTW or otherwise) if it doesn't fit right. I just don't get the same emotional/aesthetic reaction to handwork that others do. The whole artisanal connection thing passes me by. TBH, I have the same reaction to high-end mechanical watches. I have a relatively cheap Longines with - I assume - an off-the-shelf movement. The only thing reason I even have one mechanical watch is that I find a sweeping second hand pretty. My other watch is a quartz (Seamaster).

 

I also really agree with thinking about clothes purchases in an opportunity cost way; it makes for very easy budgeting and delaying gratification.

 

 

Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post
I still try to avoid synthetic materials on such cheap items, though. Eventually, nice stuff will replace all the garbage smile.gif

 

I normally avoid synthetics too. Certainly on anything that actually makes contact with me. But a small percentage isn't the end of the world in a jacket if the garment is spot-on otherwise and it's very cheap. As long as the vast majority of the fabric is natural, my feeling is that it breathes/reacts closely enough to real thing to be tolerable. But yeah, everything else (including minimal price) has to be the case for me to cave. Apart from the Gap jacket I got today, I think the only other (non-technical) item where I applied that principle is a Zara jacket.

post #392 of 2123
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

I was flipping through this Japanese book I have on Neapolitan tailors and there's some great shots in there.
I like these guys Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
tumblr_m9u29l2mnS1r9jqjeo1_1280.jpg

Wasn't the guy on the right in O'Mast? Attolini?
post #393 of 2123
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Wasn't the guy on the right in O'Mast? Attolini?

I honestly can't tell which one of these is Cesare Attolini.

cesare-attolini.jpg

I posted other pics from the book on my blog.

This guy (I'm sure someone here knows who that is) looks particularly sharp with rather clean lines for Naples :

tumblr_m9u4vcSCbc1r9jqjeo1_500.jpg
post #394 of 2123
Thread Starter 
Sometimes it feels like every third person on here is a lawyer. One has to wonder how many billable hours have been spent following WAYWT threads and Foo's shopping adventures.
post #395 of 2123
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Sometimes it feels like every third person on here is a lawyer. One has to wonder how many billable hours have been spent following WAYWT threads and Foo's shopping adventures.


On the flip side though, it does mean that a lot of frivolous lawsuits probably haven't been filed. So the yin and yang balances out...

post #396 of 2123
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

This might lead to some head shakes, but more recently I've adopted a loose policy of only paying full price for items that are made for me. Beyond that, I've veered away from the borderline absurd "bells and whistles" of the top-tier OTR makers. I no longer see the utility or charm of a completely handmade garment if it doesn't fit properly. Buying a Kiton shirt because it is completely hand-finished and then taking it to a tailor who will make alterations on a machine seems completely useless.
While I don't currently have the budget (or the time) to go completely bespoke/MTM on all of my work attire, I find myself buying cheaper pieces (or pieces that can be had for a higher discount) as I save for the items that I really need. I've also narrowed my list down of stuff that I need/should be looking for (as stated in an earlier post here).

Nothing wrong with your outlook.

I have a similar philosophy. These days, my odd RTW purchases are restricted to accessories (ties, squares, braces, shoes etc.) or certain pieces of casual-wear (sweaters, jeans, field jackets etc.) if they catch my eye. Shirts, suit and sport jackets, and pants... these I have made every now and again.

Ironically. it's my reasonably-priced tailored clothing - the kit from P Johnson (3 shirts, 2 casual suits, 2 CBD suits) and the 14 or so Charles Nakhle shirts in soporific shades of white and blue - that garner the most praise from men and women alike; not the more expensive RTW pieces, many of which I regret purchasing and put down to youth, inexperience and the Siren Call of Designer Branding.
post #397 of 2123
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Sometimes it feels like every third person on here is a lawyer. One has to wonder how many billable hours have been spent following WAYWT threads and Foo's shopping adventures.

well, there are a lot of the joos around here. wink.gif
post #398 of 2123
just want to say, i think this is awesome.

tumblr_m9m3g5LVB31qhj03go1_500.jpg
post #399 of 2123
why?

In terms of the outfit, I like the tie but other than that, what is there to like? The guy is handsome and obviously his hair situation is off the charts but the jacket and pocket square crazy.gif
post #400 of 2123
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

why?
In terms of the outfit, I like the tie but other than that, what is there to like? The guy is handsome and obviously his hair situation is off the charts but the jacket and pocket square crazy.gif

boom, right there. the only thing more off the charts is my jealousy of wishing i had hair like that to compliment my beard.

also, i just like his style. even though technically, there is a lot "wrong" with it, and its full of affectations.
post #401 of 2123
Champy for MC president.

post #402 of 2123
Thread Starter 
I'm not sure how many people here can appreciate the oddity of this photo, but this is (graff writer) Twist in Cucinelli. Published in NYT's T Magazine

post #403 of 2123
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

just want to say, i think this is awesome.
tumblr_m9m3g5LVB31qhj03go1_500.jpg

The hair and pocket square poof is too matchy /matchy.
post #404 of 2123
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPHardy View Post

The hair and pocket square poof is too matchy /matchy.

crackup[1].gif
post #405 of 2123
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I'm not sure how many people here can appreciate the oddity of this photo, but this is (graff writer) Twist in Cucinelli. Published in NYT's T Magazine
I like what he's wearing, something I'd wear.
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