Thanks! That's really cool. Nice to see a summer fabric with some soul.
MC General Chat - Page 114
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I was considering wearing as an odd jacket with grenadine tie but I think it maybe a bit tasteless. A solid silk tie would probably be better, otherwise, I think it looks beautiful as just a casual jacket.
It is 85/15 linen-cotton, btw
I have purchased a couple nice sportcoats/suits on B&S recently. Given I have short arms, I almost always need to shorten the sleeves. For some of the nicer makers like Brioni & Kiton, I run into the dilemma of working button holes.
I am wrestling with the question of whether I shorten from the shoulder or shorten from the bottom of the sleeve. If I shorten from the shoulder, I feel like I am messing with the integrity of the jacket given the handwork from these two makers. If I shorten from the bottom of the sleeve, it is wearable, but still a bit longer than I like and the button hole is getting fairly close to the end of the sleeve (less than 1 inch).
Thoughts or recommendations?
I don't see why a competent tailor couldn't go from the shoulder.
The main issue is for patterned jackets, e.g. a PoW where the original sleeve is cut so that the pattern lines up say with the chest. Another is what sort of shoulder is on the jacket (e.g. rolled etc.).
But for solids or more forgiving patterns (say, herringbone) in an unadorned shoulder, I would go from the shoulder with a competent tailor. Less than an inch is passable, but it will probably bother you even if no one else notices it.
One that comes to mind is Bruce Boyer, but I don't feel like I can pull off the look as well as he does.
I like shawl cardigans, but for some reason, mostly think of them as an at-home, lounging around garment. Obviously not how they have to be worn, but that's how I use them myself.
I'm mostly talking about the simple wool cardigans though - the kind worn by Boyer above. I really like how it looks on him, but find it looks to fussy on me. And on many people.
I might have the wrong impression, however. Would welcome anyone changing my mind on them.
How Boyer is wearing it looks more relaxed than my usual fit, which I can appreciate (I like it very much TBH). Maybe I need to get into the more luxe knit cardigans. I've been wearing Uniqlo for several seasons FWIW, a new one each season, and they are more fitted. They do look a bit fussy but with an OCBD that has a nice collar roll, looks fine. However, I don't think it looks as flattering compared to a jacket. The cardigan due to its cut and choice of fabric hugs my body more so than hangs, which Boyer's cardigan does very well in the latter.
And this is why I have been trying out various jackets this spring and so far only one seems to really fit the bill and fits me decently, made by Eleventy. Need more jackets...
I have also been looking for a shawl cardigan because the lapel balances out the midsection of a typical v-neck cardigan, IMO. However, I get it when @dieworkwear says it seems too lounge for an office attire.
As a result, I've been on a search for the "best" unstructured casual jackets (linen, 100% cotton, wool/poly blend) that have the comfort of a cardigan but still maintains a drape to the body and shape when buttoned up.
I was also going to say that I noticed this spring-summer season there are a lot of available options in terms of unstructured jackets but at the same time, if you are wearing a jacket alternative but has all the characteristics of an odd jacket, you tend to still run into problem of the jacket being too short in the body, at least in my experience. More so, most of these unstructured jackets are unlined and I'd be weary to bring and alter the body if it ends up being too full. I've run into one tailor who just said no since it is a casual jacket, so, to save myself some money, leave the jacket alone and just shorten sleeves. (Is it harder to alter a jacket with no lining? A question for another conversation...)
Edited by gettoasty - 6/24/14 at 7:04pm
I like a v-neck on its own. Fond as I am of crewnecks, I read them as kind of an Ivy cue that makes me gravitate towards chinos and an overall kind of "what a nice young man" look, which is not always what I'm looking for: sometimes I want jeans and a more open collar if I'm choosing to wear just a sweater. Sort of a more louche thing. Kinda like this guy, from Allan Warren's 1986 book The Dukes Of Great Britain.*
... rather than the Take Ivy look.
I also like just a v-neck under a coat, either with an open collar and jeans, or with cord/moleskin trousers and tie. I don't think it automatically looks too fussy, but it is a risk one runs. I tend to wear that kind of thing when I want to be a bit more dressed, but not more formal. I don't know if I'd do one with wool trousers, for example, or with a spread collar shirt (other than a tattersall).
I can't do cardigans. I have a cashmere full-zip which is one of my favorite pieces of casual clothing, but a classic buttoned cardigan looks schlubby without anything over it, and often looks a bit affected with coat and tie.
Also, this is unrelated, but those Meermin shell boots of yours are fantastic.
*I'm not so hip that I just know that, I found it on Milstil.