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MC General Chat - Page 77

post #1141 of 3224
What a n00b.
post #1142 of 3224
Thought I'd link to this great old post by Manton:

And Manton, if you're reading this, I'd be interested in your expounding on this passage:
As I argued above, I believe the lounge suit era is ending. I believe the end started long before the '90s. I think it can be traced to the Second World War at least, and to many other factors (e.g., the rapid population of California and the disproportionate influence the state had on men's style in the post-War era).

It could make a good thread.
post #1143 of 3224
Having some shirts made-up for Spring/Summer. Eying cotton/linen blends or very light/open weave cotton for a few pop-overs. Going with a four button placket and button-down collar. As of now I'm going to have the collar made from my favorite BD RTW collar, Brunello Cucinelli. Funny enough, the collar I'm replicating is on a linen/cotton blend shirt. However, the collar and cuffs are fused and quite stiff.

My question (or point of discussion) is, do I get fused/rigid collars and cuffs on such a relaxed shirt? I really like how the fused collar stands and am afraid that going with a soft(er) interlining will sacrifice this (my unlined OCBDs are kind of a mess after wearing for a while and really fall down/spread out quite a bit). However, since they are pop-overs and will likely be worn with shorts casually, I'm not sure a rigid collar will look right.

Thoughts? Am I over-thinking this?
post #1144 of 3224

I would say you are overthinking this. It sounds like you like a stiffer collar and soft cuffs and that is exactly what I would get. Soft unlined collars get people oozing here but I don't like them, particularly on a BD as they get messy as you mentioned.
post #1145 of 3224
Ed, thanks for the input. I think you're right. While I like the idea of a "relaxed, natural" collar, in execution they seem to be less than ideal. In winter I had a new collar made up for some OCBDs that I thought was perfect. I now find that I have to wear them with only the top button undone. Two buttons down and the collar seems to swim around my neck. Looking back the points were too long and the spread too minimal. Lesson learned.

Thanks again for your advice.
post #1146 of 3224
Thread Starter 
FWIW, I asked the head shirtmaker at Isaia's factory once why some shirt collars stand up while others collapse a bit more easily. I thought the answer had something to do with the interlining or collarband, but it apparently doesn't. Supposedly, it has something to do with the way the collar pattern is cut. I have a bunch of photos of this somewhere, but truth be told, when I was going back through them for a post I was going to write, and listening to the audio that I recorded, I wasn't quite sure again what he meant. I sent the photos to my contact at Ascot Chang, who said they would get back to me, but never did.

Maybe he understood my question wrong. Or maybe I didn't understand him correctly. I don't know. It's probably best if a shirtmaker or tailor actually chime in here, but my understanding is that this is more of an issue about patterns.

Personally, I would opt for a soft interlining.
post #1147 of 3224
Interesting. I would like a tailor to chime in, in that case. I'm having the pattern matched exactly from an existing collar, so I suppose I'll be able to find out on my own, though I'd rather not spend the money in the name of science, if it can be avoided.
post #1148 of 3224
Thread Starter 
Depending on who your shirtmaker is and whether you can talk to an actual pattern maker (instead of a sales rep), why not just ask him/ her?

FWIW, a lot could have been lost in translation. The head shirtmaker at Isaia doesn't speak English, and I don't speak Italian, so we were working through a translator.
post #1149 of 3224
But that goes against the SF construct of "Why do the work when there's people here who can tell me?" biggrin.gif

Seriously though, I will the next time I have a chance. Likely placing an order mid-April, so can chat about things then. Just half-hoped Jeffrey or Chris were trolling general chat.
post #1150 of 3224

I am so happy right now. My tailor has finally nailed the shoulder expression I wanted on my jackets - minimal padding with pronounced slope but no droopiness, slight extension and roped sleevehead. Plus high armholes and a swelled chest. All of this MTM, but he worked his magic on the finished garment and changed it radically. I wasn't expecting this and was ready to switch tailors - now I have to think twice. We still have to sort out a slight short back balance problem which might be fixable by taking in the jacket a little from the center back / side back seams (it has the room for it).


The jacket is not perfect but achieving the shoulders I wanted (they fit, BTW) is a very important milestone, IMHO. Now if I ever choose to go bespoke with him, he knows what to shoot for.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




This is all very egocentric but I just had to tell someone, lol. Ya know, who will listen to stories of tailoring achievements in real life?

Edited by RDiaz - 3/22/13 at 5:54pm
post #1151 of 3224
post #1152 of 3224
Going to pickup my shirts tomorrow morning at 10AM

Crossing my fingers all the problems are fixed and there is nothing wrong ffffuuuu.gif
post #1153 of 3224
I have a question. If i have a pair of tan grain shoes, such as the C&J coniston, could I use brown polish and wax to help darken the color (not to dye it brown or anything, but to just get a slightly darker color on it), or will the texture of the leather just make it so the valleys are dark and the hills remain tan? Or worse, will the polish just rub off and look streaky?
post #1154 of 3224
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by gettoasty View Post

Going to pickup my shirts tomorrow morning at 10AM

Crossing my fingers all the problems are fixed and there is nothing wrong ffffuuuu.gif

Are these the Uniqlo shirts you took to your alterations tailor? Have you asked them to be properly converted into solid blue SG chambrays with spread collars, back darts, single cuffs, no front plackets, no gauntlet buttons, and no back pleats?
post #1155 of 3224
Picked up my corduroy trouser today at my tailor's atelier. No regrets about the single reverse pleat, some other small changes because the cloth was pretty hard to sewn.

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