B. Nelson NYC Shoe Repair

chogall · Aug 21, 2012

bjh said:
I'm very happy with recent major shoe repair from Nick Valenti's shop in NYC.
Several months ago I noticed some fuzzy white material between the upper and the sole on one of my Vass Norwegers in shell cordovan on the New Peter last. These are about five years old and well tended. Puzzled, I vigorously brushed the white material away, only to have it return several times over the course of many days. This happened with both shoes symmetrically, near the instep. It finally dawned on me that something might be seriously wrong; closer examination showed the absence of stitches that mate the upper with the sole. (I don't know the proper terminology for these details.) Knowing the Vass reputation for quality (I have three pairs), I never dreamed that these shoes could fail this way. Dismayed, I set them aside. They had been my favorites.
I finally decided to do something about this. A search on Styleforum suggested that B. Nelson would be the best choice. Nick was surprised that the shoes had failed this way. Not surprisingly, the entire shoe would have to be disassembled, a new welt constructed, and new soles added. I was actually relieved that they could be repaired, albeit at a somewhat higher price than the web page quotes for recrafting, but not seriously so. It seemed a good price to pay to have them back in good form. I also asked for flush metal toe taps and Redenbach soles and heels. He said they would be ready in a week.
They were ready on time, and I'm quite pleased. The first three photos below are "before" repair. The rest were taken after I wore them home, so you will see that the sole is no longer virgin.
Thank you, Nick.
BEFORE:

how was this fixed? it looks like it requires a new hand welting job

bjh · Aug 21, 2012

Chogall: It required a new welt. I don't know whether or not it was done by "hand." Perhaps there was some machine intervention. Regardless, it was well done.

bjh · Aug 21, 2012

Ceoceo: Perhaps you meant, "How does one obtain SF member special pricing?" I live in Manhattan. I took my ailing shoes to the best in NYC. Nick spontaneously offered a discount. I was grateful; I accepted.

chogall · Aug 21, 2012

bjh said:
Chogall: It required a new welt. I don't know whether or not it was done by "hand." Perhaps there was some machine intervention. Regardless, it was well done.

Yes they do look great.

But being Vass and all those hand-made jazz, I am just curious about how it was repaired, i.e., new gemming or hand welt again, and what was the cause, i.e., bad thread or bad insole?

bjh · Aug 21, 2012

Chogall: I can't give you the details. Ask Nick. He's the professional.

Nick V. · Aug 22, 2012

chogall said:
Yes they do look great.

But being Vass and all those hand-made jazz, I am just curious about how it was repaired, i.e., new gemming or hand welt again, and what was the cause, i.e., bad thread or bad insole?

Yes the new welt was hand stitched.

chogall · Aug 22, 2012

Nick V. said:
Yes the new welt was hand stitched.

amazing. that's pretty much handcrafting a new pair of shoes starting from welting w/o the original last

damage was on the thread not the insole, correct?

hendrix · Aug 22, 2012

chogall said:
amazing. that's pretty much handcrafting a new pair of shoes starting from welting w/o the original last

Not really, as the "feather" (/holdfast) would have already been cut.

I don't think it would be possible to replace the welt with a machine.

ceoceo · Aug 23, 2012

I probably will give them a phone call tomorrow but do you think B. Nelson's will repair the broken threads that hold the quarter and the throat line together?

bjh · Aug 23, 2012

Definitely give them a call. You will find them helpful, but it may be difficult for them to evaluate a repair unless they have the shoe in hand. Good luck.

gyasih · Aug 23, 2012

bjh said:
Definitely give them a call. You will find them helpful, but it may be difficult for them to evaluate a repair unless they have the shoe in hand. Good luck.

+1

suitforcourt · Jun 20, 2017

Sending my first pair of shoes to @Nick V. and B Nelson. I've been reading reviews and pretty excited about my first pair.

I live in Canada, so shipping and exchange rate will hit me hard, but I want my shoes to be taken care of.

The shoe:
Crockett Jones Bedford 8G. Found these on eBay for $75 (all in). Pretty good given that in Canada, I'd have to pay $1000+ for a pair. As you can see, lots of work to be done.

My choices:
I do have 3 trusted cobblers in Canada (Vancouver, Toronto and Montreal). But I finally decided to give B Nelson a try. They seem to be the "go to place" for many of the SF members.

I also could have sent back to Crockett Jones for the recraft in England. Costs would be about $400+. Probably worth it, but not convinced.

The request/job:
JR package. Do everything that Crockett Jones would do in their recraft process. I'm sure Nick will call me to give further recommendations. Going all out on this pair, as they are meant to commemorate an important event.

I'm sending them in July, and expect them back sometime in August. Can't wait.

LLEE · Mar 22, 2018

@suitforcourt , did you ever end up sending these out to B. Nelson? Is this the same NickV as our resident V Cleat authority?
I ask because I currently have a pair of Edward Green’s I’d like to have recorded/soles. The uppers are in substantially better shape than the ones you posted, and I’d actually rather do my own polishing etc on them.
Cheers!

suitforcourt · Mar 22, 2018

LLEE said:
@suitforcourt , did you ever end up sending these out to B. Nelson? Is this the same NickV as our resident V Cleat authority?
I ask because I currently have a pair of Edward Green’s I’d like to have recorded/soles. The uppers are in substantially better shape than the ones you posted, and I’d actually rather do my own polishing etc on them.
Cheers!

I did not end up using B Nelson after all.

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