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If you do not own the following things, you are not well dressed - Page 5

post #61 of 643
I have and wear every item on Manton's basic and advanced lists and Dopey's addendum, including all of the alternatives, with only one exception. I do not own black stitch cap oxfords; I prefer punch caps and believe the two are interchangeable in all circumstances where either would be appropriate. It may be that Manton's list is intended as the sine qua non of the business wardrobe, and in that light I agree with him. I would not, however, believe myself to be well-dressed if I also did not have:

-black tie attire, including either formal oxfords or pumps (I see Dopey has added this)
-brown suede oxfords, monks, and slip ons (in addition to all the shoes specified in Manton's list)
-patterned and striped long and bow ties
-patterned and solid silk squares
-dress hats inlcuding at least one brown and one gray fur felt and one natural and one tan/brown straw
-dress gloves (black and brown) and scarves
-rugged clothing, headwear, and footwear suitable to any climate in which I may expect to find myself
-attire appropriate to any sporting activities in which I regularly participate.
Edited by oldog/oldtrix - 8/2/12 at 3:33am
post #62 of 643
I am 27 and haven't worn black-tie since my senior prom. Once I have to again, I will commission a bespoke tux.
post #63 of 643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Well, two minds on this one. Yes, I suppose that any fair definition of well dressed shoud include that. However, there are a lot of guys who could use every single thing on my list but who never, ever have call to wear black tie. So I don't know ...

I have a bespoke tux, I haven't worn it in years, unfortunately. I could wear it to a wedding every now and again, but pretty much nothing else.
post #64 of 643
Thread Starter 
Punch caps are proably OK in lieu of stitch but I have this crazy notion that punch caps are better for day and stitch for night, though stitch works better for day than punch does for night. Totally made that one up.

Anyway, the reason I said stitch and not punch is that stitch is the kelvin, the absolute zero CBD shoe.
post #65 of 643
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I have heard that, but don't believe it. Everyone gets invited to a black-tie wedding at some point.
It makes perfect sense for someone to save the money and not buy black-tie and make do without or rent the one time you need it. But the list should have it. Whether to or how to follow the list is an individual choice, but the list should be complete. Or add "if necessary"

Not me, at least not yet. I've had to wear an absolutely horrific "tuxedo" getup as a groomsmen once, but none of the guests were in black tie.
post #66 of 643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Punch caps are proably OK in lieu of stitch but I have this crazy notion that punch caps are better for day and stitch for night, though stitch works better for day than punch does for night. Totally made that one up.
Anyway, the reason I said stitch and not punch is that stitch is the kelvin, the absolute zero CBD shoe.

Sounds like it stems from the old, no wingtips after 6pm rule. The less brogueing the more formal.
post #67 of 643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

-a blue odd jacket. If you iive in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold check - two, and a third about to be put into the works
-mid gray flannel pants yup, several
-decent, non-chino khakis not sure what qualifies here. Have several fawn coloured odd trousers, by mina. Some moleskin beige trousers by Ambrosi, and a few others that could qualify. But nothing in a typical chino fabric that is not a chino
-at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket this needs fixing. Have a moonbeam jacket and a glorious twelfth one, but no proper tweed
-a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suit yes, rarely worn
-a navy worsted single breasted suit check, times about seven
-a white FC shirt yes, though rarely worn
-several blue BC shirts, at least one BD lots of blues, no BD
-black stitch caps yes
-some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you) yes
-loafers in medium brown or burg shell yes
-a solid black tie, knit or grenadine yes, but only for funerals
-a solid navy tie, knit or grenadine plenty
-a plain white linen hanky yes
For the "more advanced" players:
-at least one DB suit, navy worsted or medium gray flannel (the best dressers will have both) both
-at least one linen suit yes
-at least one pair of brown suede shoes yes
-at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check several, in silk, wool, cashmere
-at least one wool or cashmere tie more than a dozen
-at least one linen or linen blend tie yes [\quote]

So I guess I fail on the BDs and the tweed. The tweed will be remedied this autumn, probably by Steed (or maybe a Huntsman house check, just because I have always wanted one). The BD situation is nakedly to be resolved

R-O-T
post #68 of 643
I have everything on the list but the DB, which feels costumey on me. Maybe in a few decades.
post #69 of 643
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

I would put myself in this group. I'm 30, have never had a black tie event, and may well never. If I really stretched it I could go to opening nights at the opera and fancy New Year's Eve parties and maybe be able to wear black tie once or twice a year, but even then I'd likely be in a small minority at these events. Hence my search for more dressed down versions of classic evening wear.

I am slightly older and have not been to a black tie event in at least a decade.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I have heard that, but don't believe it. Everyone gets invited to a black-tie wedding at some point.
It makes perfect sense for someone to save the money and not buy black-tie and make do without or rent the one time you need it. But the list should have it. Whether to or how to follow the list is an individual choice, but the list should be complete. Or add "if necessary"

I've been to six weddings in the last 18 months. None were black tie.

Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Not me, at least not yet. I've had to wear an absolutely horrific "tuxedo" getup as a groomsmen once, but none of the guests were in black tie.

see above...
post #70 of 643
I know one thing. When (if) I get married my wedding will be black-tie. Basically I just need an excuse to commission a tux. shog[1].gif
post #71 of 643
I can't believe all these people who never go to black tie, particularly coming from some who apparently run in otherwise formal circles. I have at least 2 black-tie gala events a year, and have been to 2 black tie (or optional) weddings within the span of the last 2 years. I'm in my mid-30s.
post #72 of 643
I was invited to a nice little gathering that required black tie this year, but I couldn't go because I didn't have a tux. There wasn't enough time for me to commission one at the time. frown.gif I should just do it so I am not SOL next time...
post #73 of 643
They do exist in DC, but I'm in academia, so it's not really within my circle. If I were a politician or a lawyer I might have more occasions.
post #74 of 643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Punch caps are proably OK in lieu of stitch but I have this crazy notion that punch caps are better for day and stitch for night, though stitch works better for day than punch does for night. Totally made that one up.
Anyway, the reason I said stitch and not punch is that stitch is the kelvin, the absolute zero CBD shoe.

Well, I have a pair of brown suede stitch caps if that helps. (I know it doesn't.)
post #75 of 643
Traditional formal and semi-formal wear is entirely situation-specific. Reading this, I just realised I have worn both white tie and morning dress more often that black tie in the last four or five years. That's an aberration and probably won't hold true for the next four or five years. But it stands to reason that if you have a reasonable need for anything more than a lounge suit, you should fill the space in the wardrobe. If you don't, you are just buying a costume for your dress-up box that's no different from my 8-year old's Superman suit and pirate outfit.

But everyone should still own at least one good dark suit, for weddings, funerals, and court appearances. (English joke: Q: "What do you call a Liverpudian in a suit?" A: "The defendant".)
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