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If you do not own the following things, you are not well dressed - Page 2

post #16 of 643
Thread Starter 
My OC's are navy DB and camel polo. If I get another, it will be fawn covert DB. Then done.
post #17 of 643
Where do blue odd jackets and non-blue tweed jackets intersect? For example, there's a quite nice worsted alsport blue herringbone that I had been thinking about turning into an odd jacket for general informal and office (academia) purposes. I must say I do own a blue tweed jacket, although in my defence, it's a sky blue (the recent London Lounge shetland).
post #18 of 643
Great Thread!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

-a blue odd jacket. If you iive in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold
-mid gray flannel pants
-decent, non-chino khakis
-at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket
-a mid to dark gray single-breasted suit
-a navy single breasted suit
-a white FC shirt
-several blue BC shirts, at least one BD
-black stitch caps
-some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you)
-loafers in medium brown or burg shell
-a solid black tie, knit or grenadine
-a solid navy tie, knit or grenadine
-a plain white linen hanky
For the "more advanced" players:
-at least one DB suit, navy is best; medium gray flannel is next
-at least one linen suit
-at least one pair of brown suede shoes
-at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check
-at least one wool or cashmere tie
-at least one linen or linen blend tie

My tally, and I would not have thought about many these essentials if it were not for the SF. (I do not like loafers)
Quote:
Originally Posted by porcelain monkey View Post

Rock on, Manton! SF has been great for the last week!
I have struggled finding "decent non-chino khakis." Could you be more specific about what you think is best in this area?

I think something like Incotex or RL would work here, or possibly some of the nicer finished cotton trousers from J Crew.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Thread title makes no sense. The contents of your closet are a state of being while being well-dressed or not captures a moment in time. I think this is meant to be a list of must-haves for the 'advanced".

Agree with the assesment of the title.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquidus View Post

Are flannel pants really necessary? I bought a couple from Howard Yount and realized that I much prefer the smooth finish of a worsted wool that can also hold a crease. What are "non-chino" khakis?

Totally agree with the necessity of flannel trousers. I ended up with two shades of gray and a blue flannel from HY.

For the non-chino khakis, again, I think were talking about tan colored cotton trousers with a smooth finish like Incotex.
post #19 of 643
1. A blue odd jacket. If you iive in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold. Check and check, though my warm weather one is double breasted, 4x1.
2. Mid-gray flannel pants. Nope. Light grey only.
3. Decent, non-chino khakis. Nope.
4. At least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket. Check, times a million.
5. A mid to dark gray single-breasted suit. Check. Charcoal one I wore to my wedding. 12oz. Harrison's Fine Classics.
6. A navy single breasted suit. Check. Navy hopsack.
7. A white FC shirt. Check. Worn maybe three times in five years.
8. Several blue BC shirts, at least one BD. Hahaha. SOMANYCHECK.
9. Black stitch caps. Technically no, but I'm giving myself a Check anyway, because Philip II punch caps are superior.
10. Some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you). Technically Check, because I own them. But they might as well not exist.
11. Loafers in medium brown or burg shell. Nope. Will never happen.
12. Solid black tie, knit or grenadine. Nope, and no plans for one.
13. A solid navy tie, knit or grenadine. Nope.
14. A plain white linen hanky. Check.

Normal Score: 9 for 14

For the "more advanced" players:
1. At least one DB suit, navy is best; medium gray flannel is next. Check.
2. At least one linen suit. Nope. One day.
3. At least one pair of brown suede shoes. Nope. OneShoe is my one shoe.
4. At least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check. Check.
5. At least one wool or cashmere tie. Check.
6. At least one linen or linen blend tie. Nope.

Advanced Score: 3 for 6
post #20 of 643

I've edited out the things I have and left in the things I have queries about.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

-decent, non-chino khakis  I was puzzled by 'non-chino' too, but figure my Cordings cotton drills pass muster.
-several blue BC shirts, at least one BD  No, but an English thing.  Tattersall check for dress down.
-a solid black tie, knit or grenadine Yes, but only for funerals (grenadine).
-at least one linen suit  Linen/silk?
-at least one pair of brown suede shoes  No - don't do suede.
-at least one linen or linen blend tie  What other Summer tie choices would you recommend?
post #21 of 643
nice thread and list. i agree across the board.

thanks for sharing.
post #22 of 643
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

Where do blue odd jackets and non-blue tweed jackets intersect?
Not sure I understand the question.

Re: summer ties, cotton madras is also good. Otherwise, if silk, just look for summery colors.
post #23 of 643
@ manton - would you consider a sluby shantung solid navy tie in stead of a knit or grenadine, or not?

i dont think i will ever own a linen suit. like whnay mentioned elsewhere, i can not handle the wrinkles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I so fail.

yeah, but for you it is intentional, for others (me) its a work in progress.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Non chino just means, not like those sweatshop-made wrinkly things i wear on weekends and that I would never wear with a tie.

do you mean something in a fine twill like cotton?

+1 to what dopey said about thread title. i think its possible to be well dressed at a moment without owning this entire list. maybe its more like,

If You Do Not Own All The Following Things, Your Wardrobe Is Incomplete
post #24 of 643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Not sure I understand the question.
Re: summer ties, cotton madras is also good. Otherwise, if silk, just look for summery colors.

Sorry. What I meant is: when you say everyone needs one or two odd blue jackets, and a non-blue tweed jacket, does that mean you don't like blue tweed, or that everyone should have a non-blue tweed jacket on top of a potential blue one?
post #25 of 643
Thread Starter 
Navy shantung is a nice tie but it's a summer tie whereas the other two are year-round.

"Well dressed " in the title does not mean "well dressed at this moment in that get-up." It means "He is a well dressed man, i.e., wherever and whenever he goes, he is dresed appropriately for the occasion and with style."
post #26 of 643
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerC View Post

Sorry. What I meant is: when you say everyone needs one or two odd blue jackets, and a non-blue tweed jacket, does that mean you don't like blue tweed, or that everyone should have a non-blue tweed jacket on top of a potential blue one?
I mean, you need a basic solid blue jacket. It doesn't have to be blazer strictly speaking but it has to be something that can function like one. Once you have that, then you need a non-blue jacket for variety.
post #27 of 643
Is it an absolute necessity to have both gray and navy? One can't choose between them?
post #28 of 643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Navy shantung is a nice tie but it's a summer tie whereas the other two are year-round.
"Well dressed " in the title does not mean "well dressed at this moment in that get-up." It means "He is a well dressed man, i.e., wherever and whenever he goes, he is dresed appropriately for the occasion and with style."
remind me about what you wear on weekends
post #29 of 643
And I guess since we're all checking in, I have everything on both lists except a double-breasted suit, as long as I am allowed to check off brown loafer and brown suede with the same shoe, and a linen blend counts as a linen suit.
post #30 of 643
I'll play, from memory:

-a blue odd jacket. If you iive in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold both
-mid gray flannel pants No, charcoal (sin, I know), but I need some. And some light grey ones
-decent, non-chino khakis yes
-at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacketFive, depending on the definition of tasteful. And a blue one.
-a mid to dark gray single-breasted suitFive. All plain worsted. Boring. Thinking about ordering yet another one.
-a navy single breasted suitThree
-a white FC shirtAbout 12
-several blue BC shirts, at least one BDYes to both, the former in multiples
-black stitch caps2 pair
-some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you)Seven or eight pairs
-loafers in medium brown or burg shell4 pairs, but not in shell
-a solid black tie, knit or grenadineYes
-a solid navy tie, knit or grenadineA number
-a plain white linen hankyNo. 2 silk, in different shades of white (or maybe one needs cleaning)

For the "more advanced" players:
-at least one DB suit, navy is best; medium gray flannel is nextPlain navy; navy chalkstripe; charcoal chalkstripe; grey tweed
-at least one linen suitTan, mid-blue and navy.
-at least one pair of brown suede shoes 2 pairs and some chukkas
-at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check a ridiculous number of ties like this that are all almost the same
-at least one wool or cashmere tie yes, one wool, but I don't wear it; it jjust sort of hangs around
-at least one linen or linen blend tieNo; never felt the need

I'd query:


- stitch-caps. I guess you ought to and I do, and it''s a classic staple, but I'd expand that to include oxfords with a single line of brogueing, plain-toes, etc. Even those wholecut things that I do not like at all.
- mandatory BD: yes in America, not here. I only scrape through as I have an ancient J Press OCBD that has survived all I've thown at since 1994. Just. They don't make them like that any more.
- loafers: should not be mandatory. I own a few, but would happily survive if loafers were banned by law.

I'd add:

- a pair of brown full brogues;
- dark red and navy ties with tasteful spots (I think Manton dislikes them, but they are a staple item);
- a pair of inoffensive dark jeans;
- one patterned, coloured, silk pocket square.

But that's a very good list. With some minor variation allowed on shoes, ties, and the occasional striped shirt it probably covers 80+% of what I wear regularly, even if that's a smaller proportion of the amount of stuff I have accumulated over the years.
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