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How to wear a white shirt - Page 32

post #466 of 522
The thread I meant can be found at the internet archive link, on the second line of the thread you linked to.

I don't know if the collar is a major reason why it looks odd to me, perhaps a non-spread collar would seem better but I think if the shirt was a more "country" cloth like a plain oxford or a tattersall then the collar wouldn't matter so much.

Anyway it looks to me like your blue striped shirt wants to be a part of this:




Whereas your jacket and tie want a shirt more like this, which I imagine to be a wool/cotton blend (and I guess you could call that a semi-spread collar):


Edited by cold war painter - 3/27/14 at 1:24pm
post #467 of 522

Wow, that thread is amazing. You are completely right about the issue of coherence. Thanks for all of the info. I will work on "rusticating" my shirts to go with that jacket, and get a navy blazer for when I want to wear a white shirt.

post #468 of 522

Ok, another contender for breaking the rules w/r/t white shirt and brown, or it being an 'advanced' look or whatever. 

 

Brown sportcoat 

White spread collar twill.

Dark brown cashmere tie.

 

 

 

SugarB and Manton established a few pages ago that brown + white shirt + dark tie 'can' work/be a good look, but is tricky. I've always thought a brown jacket (I rarely wear suits, so am sticking to that context) just about demanded a blue shirt - but, I think maybe this is because I almost always wear a navy tie (with just about everything - with white shirts). That said, I'm moving towards a more white shirt based wardrobe entirely, and a more monochrome look in general. I put this together and thought that a) it worked, b) it DIDN'T look better when I tried it with a white OCBD instead of the spread collar twill.

 

What say you, SF?

 

*also: just kind of trying to revive this amazing thread in general...

post #469 of 522

^^

 

That lacks the ease that an OCBD necessitates. Same thing with a four-in-hand knot, more-textured tie, and either no tie bar or one that isn't 2014 high and tiny (off-topic: boo to those), and an OCBD would make sense.

 

I think the reason that works well is because of the white/off-white in the coat. You basically have white and brown there, and if you want to limit your color palette like that, a white shirt makes more sense. Adding a blue shirt would be adding another color.

 

Now, if you had a blue tie, then a blue shirt would make more sense. And if you had a tie in more than one color, a blue shirt might be very helpful, since it would broaden your palette.

post #470 of 522

Makes sense. I never do the FIH (sin around here, I know) and perhaps the tie could use more texture - I thought it worked better with this cashmere than with my brown grenadines though, and I really don't care for knits. Maybe that is indeed why the OCBD seemed off. Oh, and yeah on the tie bar, I know, I know. It's an affectation I can't seem to give up although I've tried off and on for years, and don't like them larger or lower. But point taken.

 

So: the spread collar is indeed preferable, despite the shirt being white and it being a sportcoat?

 

Corollary: I seem to find the spread collar white shirt works fine with other sport coats so long as they're in 'city' colors - blues and greys. I essentially try to blend a city color palette/look with 'country' attire and fabrics (besides, obviously, the shirt). I think it works in general, but always avoided it with brown/tan etc jackets until now.

post #471 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Ryan View Post
 

Makes sense. I never do the FIH (sin around here, I know) and perhaps the tie could use more texture - I thought it worked better with this cashmere than with my brown grenadines though, and I really don't care for knits. Maybe that is indeed why the OCBD seemed off. Oh, and yeah on the tie bar, I know, I know. It's an affectation I can't seem to give up although I've tried off and on for years, and don't like them larger or lower. But point taken.

 

So: the spread collar is indeed preferable, despite the shirt being white and it being a sportcoat?

 

Corollary: I seem to find the spread collar white shirt works fine with other sport coats so long as they're in 'city' colors - blues and greys. I essentially try to blend a city color palette/look with 'country' attire and fabrics (besides, obviously, the shirt). I think it works in general, but always avoided it with brown/tan etc jackets until now.


Well, what's preferable? I mean, if it were me, that would be a knit tie, a FIH knot, and an OCBD.

 

But I think the spread makes sense, given the other elements you have. The cashmere is better than a grenadine would be, and a fairly restrained cashmere is a good choice for what you're doing here. It's like a microcosm of the whole thing: the most refined, elegant version of country clothing.

 

I don't think I've ever seen a symmetrical tie knot that looked right with a BD collar, though.

 

It can be tricky to balance city and country in a single rig, but keeping things simple helps. That said, there are still plenty of times when light blue shirts are the path of least resistance.

post #472 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post
 

It's like a microcosm of the whole thing: the most refined, elegant version of country clothing.

That's preferable, for me. I take that as a compliment of the highest order whether intended or not, because that is exactly what I'm after with my fits. 

 

I'll stick with the spread.

post #473 of 522

Interesting thread!White shirt is great,I've never notice my outfit match,this thread may be helpful to me.:nodding:

post #474 of 522
Independent of one's knot preferences, your windsor (or whatever it is) is too big for this particular collar. You can see that it's pushing the points up off the shirt. I like the combination otherwise.
post #475 of 522

I have a 2.75" (my usual size) of the same fabric being made up by Hober at the moment. This 3" one is from a brief experimentation last year with wider widths, and is all I have at the moment. Agreed that the knot is too big - it's a half windsor but the thick cashmere bulks it up considerably more on top of that. Thanks for the input.

post #476 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

your windsor (or whatever it is) is too big for this particular collar.

SB, as I said I think the narrower tie width will help alleviate the issue, but do you (or anyone else for that matter) think I should experiment with an even wider spread perhaps, given my preference for half-windsors? Or is this about as spread as you can go with a white shirt/odd jacket combo?

post #477 of 522
You don't need a wider spread. Longer points and a taller collar band would take care of it.
post #478 of 522

Perhaps I'll give one of them double button Italian jobs a shot.

post #479 of 522
IMO the sport coat looks like a suiting fabric, OCBD would be better if you must do white, and a subtle ecru could also provide an interesting look there.
post #480 of 522
Don't fall prey to the OCBD Brigade! smile.gif
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