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How to wear a white shirt - Page 8

post #106 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Manton, I'm not sure I agree. I think a white shirt is often the best choice when it comes to blue jackets and grey trousers, even if worn in the day. Rather than "schoolboy," I think "Old Money." In any case, I think this thread needs more photos.
These seem to work fine, IMO. Even optimally so
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bounder View Post

In fact, I think there must be a partial exception for white linen shirts in general. A number of the counter-examples offered involved linen shirts.
I don't think this is really in contradiction to Manton's original argument, either. The roughness in linen -- not to mention the inevitable wrinkles -- almost qualifies it as a pattern. Linen is most definitely not a "citified/formal" shirt. In addition, a lot of white linen shirts are not really "white," especially when you are wearing them.

I've been convinced to get a white linen shirt.
post #107 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by aw82 View Post

If one is to own only ONE white shirt (such as for funerals and more formal events), what is the ideal shirt, in terms of cloth, collar, and cuff?  I assume poplin or broadcloth, but would twill suffice? Is a spread or semi-spread collar conservative enough in an American context or should one stick to a point collar?  I gather that a double cuff is preferable.

I'm not sure if FC is best in North America. Your average "interview advice" thread would recommend BC as it doesn't stand out, but that's not an issue in the UK.

I would get the collar that looks best on your face, somewhere between semi-spread and point (nothing extreme). I would prefer a broadcloth for its crispness in the situations where white is required.
post #108 of 522
ok, so if a white linen shirt isn't a "regular" white shirt, what about patterned white shirts? white on white herringbone and so on?
post #109 of 522
I hate white on white patterns.

or blue on blue.

just any tonal patterns. Not sure why, I just associate them with wealthy-middle-aged-man-wants-to-dress-up-so-he-buys-"luxe"-looking-shirt-with-french-cuffs-and-massive-collar-and-wears-with-distressed-jeans-and-awful-loafers.
post #110 of 522
I love white button cuff, spread collar and BD shirts to wear with jeans with and without a blazer. They look crisp and it balances out the various shades of blue. With tan/khaki or gray pants and a blazer I usually go with a blue shirt unless my tie is begging for a white shirt (i.e. it has white or silver in it) .
post #111 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by globetrotter View Post

ok, so if a white linen shirt isn't a "regular" white shirt, what about patterned white shirts? white on white herringbone and so on?

I think the heavy twill or herringbone fabrics look great sitting all wrapped up at a store or in tailors swatch books. But I never see anyone wearing them and think, 'That looks great, I really need one of those". With patterned suits and jackets they seem to clash and with solid suits and jackets their pattern seems to stand out too much. So, they are a concept that should work in theory but rarely does IRL. IMO.
post #112 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

I hate white on white patterns.
or blue on blue.
just any tonal patterns. Not sure why, I just associate them with wealthy-middle-aged-man-wants-to-dress-up-so-he-buys-"luxe"-looking-shirt-with-french-cuffs-and-massive-collar-and-wears-with-distressed-jeans-and-awful-loafers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy View Post

I think the heavy twill or herringbone fabrics look great sitting all wrapped up at a store or in tailors swatch books. But I never see anyone wearing them and think, 'That looks great, I really need one of those". With patterned suits and jackets they seem to clash and with solid suits and jackets their pattern seems to stand out too much. So, they are a concept that should work in theory but rarely does IRL. IMO.

Agreed. I think twill can work, but it's not as versatile. The worst are things like shiny raised satin stripes or checks against a more matte background. Often included in the box with matching red satin tie & PS.
post #113 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrenkin View Post

Agreed. I think twill can work, but it's not as versatile. The worst are things like shiny raised satin stripes or checks against a more matte background. Often included in the box with matching red satin tie & PS.

There are very fine twills that work well. In fact I like the feel of a nice twill. But the thicker, bolder twills that give a noticeable diagonal pattern to a shirt, no.
post #114 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

I hate white on white patterns.
or blue on blue.
just any tonal patterns. Not sure why, I just associate them with wealthy-middle-aged-man-wants-to-dress-up-so-he-buys-"luxe"-looking-shirt-with-french-cuffs-and-massive-collar-and-wears-with-distressed-jeans-and-awful-loafers.

I think Robert Talbott shirts used to hold the record for this look. Hopefully they are figuring that one out these days with the new CEO.
post #115 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

White with tweed is the mark of a stooge,

White with tattersall check?
post #116 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Dieworkwear: most of those pics are good. Remember, my OP was the baseline, I didn’t go into the “advance” exceptions. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I would point out a few things, though. Contrast the second vox pic with the will pic. Will looks better, IMO, not just because Vox’s tie and coat are a bit matchy but because Will sensibly wears a dark tie with all that lightness elsewhere. Also, do please note the colors will is using are precisely the colors that I said always work with white. The pic after that is “correct” but banal, IMO. It’s basically all suiting tones done in an odd jacket ensemble. I typically don’t like that. I dress for business, or for something else, not businesslike with casual garments. Next one is fine, not my thing.; The one after that, the gun club coat, would really be better off with a non-white shirt. Next one looks like a blue shirt. On after that, bearded chap, again fine but note again that it fits to a “T” what I described in my OP. The gun club after that, no, would be better with something else, and the one after that (same coat), the shirt doesn’t look white—and WHY IS HE WEARING CLIP ON SUSPENDERS??? I love that Fellows drawing and have copied it many times.

FWIW, when I went through my archive, 99% of what I had fit your general rule. Those that didn't still fit in some way, or were a bit boring, as you noted.

I still think white OCBDs and linen shirts are optimal in certain circumstances, and the things deemed boring here are classic enough to be considered unassailable, but fair enough - there are some good lessons in that first post.
post #117 of 522
White shirt worn with blazer and greys at night :


Should not be wearing black shoes with a blazer


vs


White shirt usually demands black shoes

&

Black shoes after 6PM



Which shoes to wear? Do the latter two considerations take precedence?

A white shirt worn at night with a blazer is less likely to be a BD (or at least more likely to be a spread collar), so mink suede seems less a less appropriate substitute , and that's before we get back to the fact that it's after 6PM and mink suede would be inappropriate anyway.
post #118 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

White is thought to be the perfect background for a variety of ties, a "blank canvas." But this is not so. Many colors look absolutely terrible with white: yellow, orange, rust, lavender, purple, nearly all greens.

 

i intended to wear a pale blue shirt with this but opted for white last minute and ended up actually preferring it over blue. sartorially speaking how terrible is this?

 

1000

 

1000

post #119 of 522
Green tie? I would personally have opted for a light blue shirt, but it looks amazing nonetheless. Maybe another PS to stay away from the white-on-white or a TV-fold would help?
post #120 of 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by clapeyron View Post

 

i intended to wear a pale blue shirt with this but opted for white last minute and ended up actually preferring it over blue. sartorially speaking how terrible is this?

 

1000

 

1000

 

I do think a pale blue shirt would have worked better here. It would have softened up the contrast between jacket, shirt, and tie, creating a slightly less jarring effect. The white shirt isn't "wrong" here in the technical sense, but it's very stark. The outfit you've put together here is a very after-6pm outfit, and in broad daylight, it would come off a bit severe.

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