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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 652

post #9766 of 14157




post #9767 of 14157
Good fit, good proportions, (very nice BD roll). The yellow doesn't look bad, but I'm also not a huge fan of it.
post #9768 of 14157
post #9769 of 14157
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

You're probably right. We all fail to heed our better angels, at least sometimes.


I hear you on that one.

post #9770 of 14157
looks good, diaz, but i guess its just really hard to make yellow work in anything "business-ey."
post #9771 of 14157

Someone had made a post (Donuts) saying the roped shoulders on RDiaz's blazer demand a strong cutaway. I think the collar looks fine with it. And if not a button down, still definitely not a cutaway... 


Anyone care to educate me?

post #9772 of 14157

That comment was based on the idea that the coat's silhouette determines its use. So, a strong shoulder (pagoda-ish + strongly roped) fits into more formal settings thus the combination with a BD would be incoherent. Honestly, it makes sense to me.

post #9773 of 14157

I don't think that makes sense. So if I want to wear a more casual ensemble I need to switch to a shoulder expression that isn't flattering at all?

post #9774 of 14157
post #9775 of 14157
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


full fit (Click to show)
nice. who makes the tie?
post #9776 of 14157

You can't fool us. You took a pic of an italian businessman and photoshopped your face over it!

post #9777 of 14157



It's not practical, I agree with you 100% on that, especially if you consider that commissioning multiple garments for each point in the formality spectrum is even more unpractical. However, saying that it's too orthodox arguing that there's only one shoulder shape that is flattering for you isn't a bit close minded too? I mean, you know yourself way better than any of us, but, perhaps, trying a straight shoulder with a bit less os roping would be a way to keep flattering your body and still dropping the formality. What do you think?

post #9778 of 14157

I think the jacket's neck + roped sleevehead is giving the impression of a concave curve at the shoulder, but it's actually pretty straight and almost unpadded. My shoulders are very narrow so the roping helps widening them a little by creating some extra pufiness at the sleevehead, without the need for much shoulder extension. For my next commission I'm probably gonna try less or no roping (will likely switch to a new tailor as well). It's not going to be as flattering, but might probably look good enough.

post #9779 of 14157

I see, those photographs really gave me the impression of a pagoda-ish shoulder line. From my personal experience, I'd advise you to don't be so focused on the "flattering" part. I also have very sloped shoulder and I was a bit concerned about it at first, but, after understanding my life style, my tailor went with a bit of padding to level up, extended the shoulder line and kept an almost convex shoulder line with just a bit of roping, so as to not be incoherent with my life style and still be as flattering as possible. Good luck with your new tailor.

post #9780 of 14157

I actually like the look of a sloping shoulder (as long as it's not excessive), which is why I ask for very little padding. It's width that needs some "tailors magic" to avoid a pear look smile.gif


I really wish I could stay with this tailor because honestly, for the price I paid, a jacket with this exact same pattern, lapels half an inch narrower and the slightly long front balance fixed would be as good as it gets. But he sends the forms to the factory, then the factory does whatever they please. Maybe I could just stick with him and if the same thing happens again, demand a remake. Or maybe try his "semi-bespoke" service, which offers a basted fitting, then the garment is sent back to the factory for finishing. I've been thinking over this a lot recently; I still need to lose a lot of weight, so bespoke is perhaps too much wasted €€€, and starting over with a new MTM tailor could be worse than trying to get things right with my current one. What a dilemma.

Edited by RDiaz - 8/20/13 at 10:13am
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