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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 555

post #8311 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Balfour View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by clapeyron View Post
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Clapeyron:  On the second outfit, is that a suit or an odd jacket?  I'm assuming a suit but the colour of the jacket looks darker on my monitor in the first picture at least.

 

Love the green (grenadine?) tie.

 

 

I am wearing a suit coat as odd jacket. I believe the flannel fabric and the oxhorn buttons make the suit versatile enough to allow for this.

 

the tie is by far my favourite item. http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-piccola-silk-ties/forest-green-piccola-grenadine-silk-tie-11.html

post #8312 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by clapeyron View Post


the tie is by far my favourite item. http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-piccola-silk-ties/forest-green-piccola-grenadine-silk-tie-11.html

I also have his forest green grenadine, but mine is grossa:

http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-grossa-solid-silk-ties/forest-green-grenadine-silk-tie-16.html
post #8313 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

For a suit? That is going to wind up a very casual suit with limited usefulness. As long as you are okay with it, then no problem.

It seems that it's common for SF'ers to get it backwards. They get odd jackets that are too subtle and quiet, and suits that are too loud and strange. What is up with that?


I'm guessing this is because the louder the jacket is, the harder it is to match (especially for us newer folks); wouldn't have to worry about matching with a loud/strange suit.

post #8314 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by steffenbp11 View Post

Very nice Jp. Especially the tie. I have looked all over for a woollen in that colour and width. Care to share the maker ? Will have to buy one like this come fall...

Thank you. Tie is Cappelli. Panta, had them as well. Might want to check with them as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

you guys need to get some bigger, more obnoxious patterns.

I want a Russell plaid.

I might not be a big obnoxious pattern wearer. But too early to tell.
post #8315 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post


I'm guessing this is because the louder the jacket is, the harder it is to match (especially for us newer folks); wouldn't have to worry about matching with a loud/strange suit.

You mention you wouldn't have to worry with a suit so I assume you're talking about matching with pants? I don't think being loud would make a SC hard to match... as long as there's enough contrast and you pick a color that goes well with the predominant color on the SC you're fine smile.gif

post #8316 of 12602

This is an odd jacket with gray trousers:

 

post #8317 of 12602
Question: Stylistically speaking, should DB jackets have pockets placed a bit lower than single breasted?
post #8318 of 12602

What would be a good trouser to match a light-colored linen jacket (like this one: http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Madison-Fit-Two-Button-Linen-Sport-Coat/MM00194,default,pd.html?dwvar_MM00194_Color=LTBR&contentpos=1&cgid=0217 )

 

Or am I headed in the wrong direction by even considering this color?

post #8319 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Question: Stylistically speaking, should DB jackets have pockets placed a bit lower than single breasted?


On all my jackets, single or double breasted, with patch or flap pockets, they are placed on the same height as the lowest button. same goes for the height of the twin vents.

post #8320 of 12602
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Question: Stylistically speaking, should DB jackets have pockets placed a bit lower than single breasted?
No, I don't see why. I like pockets lined up with the bottom button but not all tailors do this. Solito, eg, puts them lower. Various others put them higher.
post #8321 of 12602
The right way to do it is to find the optimal buttoning axis (where your middle row would be in a 6x2), then position the other buttons accordingly. If the bottom row happens to fall inline with the hip pockets, so be it. If not, no matter.
post #8322 of 12602
That makes sense.
post #8323 of 12602
Thread Starter 
Since the placement of the pockets is entirely at the discretion of the tailor, I see no reason why--once the buttoning point is established--he can't simply line up the pockets with the button.
post #8324 of 12602
Because then the pockets could move too low or too high relative to the jacket hem. The way my DB jackets are made, the pockets are at the same distance from the hem no matter the button configuration. I asked Mariano about this, and he explained it as such: the pockets must stay at a certain position to be correct. Only the buttons move.
post #8325 of 12602
I remember Frank telling me a while back that if he drops the length of the hem 1" he will drop the pocket placement somewhat less than that to keep them more or less on the hips.
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