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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 535

post #8011 of 12577
Why am I not surprised that the shoulder expression came up!

I was applying your principle on page 8-9, last line in which you write that 'Higher shoulder pads are an absolute boon to the diminutive man, because the raised collar and shoulder line increase the sense of height more than any other mode ...' biggrin.gif

And since I'm diminutive ...

More seriously, apart from that reason, it's hard to find tailors on the Row who will give you a soft shoulder like A&S does, and also, I have relatively straight shoulders, thus even a moderate padding (yes, it not heavily padded, except the ends because of my curved back) makes it seem as if it's built up.

Interesting however, that with these shoulders, you won't find the 'bump' alluded to on the other threads.
post #8012 of 12577
Am I the only one thinking that the lining would make up as a good tie?
post #8013 of 12577
post #8014 of 12577
Thread Starter 
It's really the width that threw me. They look way extended.
post #8015 of 12577
What's wrong with the shoulder? That's the way straight, extended shoulders are supposed to look. And the sleeve hangs nicely from them.
post #8016 of 12577
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

What's wrong with the shoulder? That's the way straight, extended shoulders are supposed to look. And the sleeve hangs nicely from them.

The ugliness is in the transition from collar to shoulder. It is not smooth and streamlined, but abrupt.
post #8017 of 12577
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

The ugliness is in the transition from collar to shoulder. It is not smooth and streamlined, but abrupt.

Can you expand a little more on that? I'm not sure what you mean by transition from collar to shoulder. Do you mean the sleeve-head is disrupting the 'transition'?


More generally -- the shoulders are extended (and it could be taken in a whisker, I think). I think it's fairly common in England, but because A & S doesn't pad up the ends, it sort of droops/hang down so it's less prominent.

A better shot
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #8018 of 12577
You are hard to please. He is going to need a surgeon to make you happy. A tailor won't be enough.
post #8019 of 12577
Quote:
Originally Posted by bboysdontcryy View Post

Can you expand a little more on that? I'm not sure what you mean by transition from collar to shoulder. Do you mean the sleeve-head is disrupting the 'transition'?
No. He doesn't like the high collar stand rising straight from the shoulder line and wants it to transition in a slope towards the shoulders.
post #8020 of 12577
To me the shoulders look like the standard strong shoulder style.
post #8021 of 12577
Thread Starter 
Looks less wide in the second pic.
post #8022 of 12577
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

You are hard to please. He is going to need a surgeon to make you happy. A tailor won't be enough.

Not at all.
post #8023 of 12577
Here's what I mean:

collarshouldertransition_zpsd099befb.jpg

Just because a shoulder is straight, built-up, and structured, doesn't mean it should hit the collar at a hard angle. Rather, they should curve gently into each other. That could have to do with how much padding is used in the shoulder, how the collar is shaped/cut, how the shoulder is cut, etc. But I don't see how one could assume one's own body is creating such a harsh, abrupt transition. We already know the shoulder line itself is artificial, so we also know it didn't have to be made exactly the way it was.
post #8024 of 12577
The one on the right looks ridiculous. Why would you want to pad someone's neck?
post #8025 of 12577
Might have been the way the coat has been cut, or in part due to the shirt collar, or it might be because it'll hug my collar better and since I don't have a wide shoulder, it needs to anchor somewhere. I don't have an answer since that's something I never actually noticed. I'll check with the cutter when I swing by.

Did a quick search to see if it's the case on English coats that have a military-esque. Seems like it's deliberate, but I don't know for sure. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Also, an old German picture.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

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