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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 395

post #5911 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Well this is my approach:

All single vents are fail
A hook vent is a single vent
Therefore, a hook vent is fail.

Nah, it's the right thing to do in some cases.
post #5912 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

It's this:

http://www.ivy-style.com/the-hook-vent-trademark-of-the-ivy-leauge-look.html

I don't understand why it's desirable though.

Great article. I hadn't seen that. The only argument for it is subjective. It is part of a coherent, traditional aesthetic that either appeals to you or doesn't. I suspect it doesn't register with you, as you are not used to seeing it, which is fine.
post #5913 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Great article. I hadn't seen that. The only argument for it is subjective. It is part of a coherent, traditional aesthetic that either appeals to you or doesn't. I suspect it doesn't register with you, as you are not used to seeing it, which is fine.

I don't think you give it enough credit. For reasons pointed out earlier, it has real, objective advantages over a regular single vent.
post #5914 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

It's infinitely better than a regular single vent. As pointed out, it's less likely to show trouser when you walk, and more importantly, it looks a hell of a lot more finished.
Not really. The overlap between this and a regular single vent should be the same, or at least can be. The amount of over/underlap doesn't really depend on where the step is placed. It is simply as wide as the patternmaker calls for it to be.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I don't think you give it enough credit. For reasons pointed out earlier, it has real, objective advantages over a regular single vent.

Trust me on this. I have been over this with a tailor who sketched the patterns out to show me. It makes no real difference. It is just a stylistic difference.
post #5915 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

It's infinitely better than a regular single vent. As pointed out, it's less likely to show trouser when you walk, and more importantly, it looks a hell of a lot more finished.

To me these advantages don't make up for the asymmetry which seems awkward. Maybe I'm just not used to it. But I will just continue on with double vented jackets anyway, so it's irrelevant.

Maybe once I get a really tweedy jacket I will get a single vent on it.
post #5916 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Great article. I hadn't seen that. The only argument for it is subjective. It is part of a coherent, traditional aesthetic that either appeals to you or doesn't. I suspect it doesn't register with you, as you are not used to seeing it, which is fine.

Yea I just kind of don't get it. I have a feeling it's one of those things that comes together with all these other details of the trad look. If you put it on an Italian jacket or something it would just look silly.
post #5917 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Not really. The overlap between this and a regular single vent should be the same, or at least can be. The amount of over/underlap doesn't really depend on where the step is placed. It is simply as wide as the patternmaker calls for it to be.
Trust me on this. I have been over this with a tailor who sketched the patterns out to show me. It makes no real difference. It is just a stylistic difference.

Okay, okay. Still looks more finished though.
post #5918 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Could be. Princeton Soft is the model name. It has a patch breast pocket, patch and flap hip pockets. Lapped seams. And a single hook vent. yay!! Also, darts. The versions I have seen are unlined, except for maybe the shoulders. The chest has light fusing under the French facing. I think it is made in a variety of fabrics. I have never seen cotton/linen, but that doesn't mean anything.

I love it and it is a good example of how RTW can excel.

this is mine. wore it in a fit pic not too long ago.


post #5919 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Well this is my approach:

All single vents are fail
A hook vent is a single vent
Therefore, a hook vent is fail.

 

my approach:

 

is the coat an overcoat?

 

yes? single vent.

no? double vent.

 

I once made the mistake of letting a tailor argue me into getting a ventless double breasted blazer. looks. like. shit.

post #5920 of 12602
Thread Starter 
You can do a flap pocket coat with double edge stitching. I don't see it much any more but it used to be common in the US on tweed and camel hair. My first harris (RTW) coat had this.
post #5921 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

You can do a flap pocket coat with double edge stitching. I don't see it much any more but it used to be common in the US on tweed and camel hair. My first harris (RTW) coat had this.

Sounds odd.
post #5922 of 12602
Thread Starter 
No different than what English tailors still typically do for overcoats.
post #5923 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I point stuff like this out to my daughter all the time. It is an example of why fashion is evil. I can assure you that when Polo first developed the Princeton Soft model, there was no washed denim model. Just stuff like what I described. But then some idiot said "we can't make a tan linen burlap model - we did that last year" so someone said "let's do denim!!!! That's new!!" "No. Let's do 'washed denim' It's like vintage, only clean." And there you have it.

its also an example of why mr RL is a billionaire. smile.gif

not saying its good, but its hard to fault the guy for doing it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Well, fair warning: anyone who posts a washed denim, flap-patch-pocketed, hook-vented blazer in the good taste thread gets zero foo points forever. I don't care if you die then come back as the Duke of Windsor and post an outfit that makes me cry it's so good. Zero foo points.

that is a bit vindictive dont you think, though the chance of that transpiring is highly unlikely.
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Well this is my approach:

All single vents are fail
A hook vent is a single vent
Therefore, a hook vent is fail.

you must have a flat butt.
post #5924 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

No different than what English tailors still typically do for overcoats.

On flapped patches or just plain flapped welts? It's the latter I have trouble conceiving of. Seems like it would look super strange.
post #5925 of 12602
I try to stay clear from single vents. If I am ever to wear single vent I prefer them on blazers or suits of the casual variety
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