whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 395

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH 

Well this is my approach:

All single vents are fail
A hook vent is a single vent
Therefore, a hook vent is fail.

Originally Posted by unbelragazzo 

It's this:

http://www.ivy-style.com/the-hook-vent-trademark-of-the-ivy-leauge-look.html

I don't understand why it's desirable though.

Originally Posted by dopey 

Great article. I hadn't seen that. The only argument for it is subjective. It is part of a coherent, traditional aesthetic that either appeals to you or doesn't. I suspect it doesn't register with you, as you are not used to seeing it, which is fine.

Originally Posted by mafoofan 

It's infinitely better than a regular single vent. As pointed out, it's less likely to show trouser when you walk, and more importantly, it looks a hell of a lot more finished.

Originally Posted by mafoofan 

I don't think you give it enough credit. For reasons pointed out earlier, it has real, objective advantages over a regular single vent.

Originally Posted by mafoofan 

It's infinitely better than a regular single vent. As pointed out, it's less likely to show trouser when you walk, and more importantly, it looks a hell of a lot more finished.

Originally Posted by dopey 

Great article. I hadn't seen that. The only argument for it is subjective. It is part of a coherent, traditional aesthetic that either appeals to you or doesn't. I suspect it doesn't register with you, as you are not used to seeing it, which is fine.

Originally Posted by dopey 

Not really. The overlap between this and a regular single vent should be the same, or at least can be. The amount of over/underlap doesn't really depend on where the step is placed. It is simply as wide as the patternmaker calls for it to be.
Trust me on this. I have been over this with a tailor who sketched the patterns out to show me. It makes no real difference. It is just a stylistic difference.

Originally Posted by dopey 

Could be. Princeton Soft is the model name. It has a patch breast pocket, patch and flap hip pockets. Lapped seams. And a single hook vent. yay!! Also, darts. The versions I have seen are unlined, except for maybe the shoulders. The chest has light fusing under the French facing. I think it is made in a variety of fabrics. I have never seen cotton/linen, but that doesn't mean anything.

I love it and it is a good example of how RTW can excel.

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH 

Well this is my approach:

All single vents are fail
A hook vent is a single vent
Therefore, a hook vent is fail.

Originally Posted by Manton 

You can do a flap pocket coat with double edge stitching. I don't see it much any more but it used to be common in the US on tweed and camel hair. My first harris (RTW) coat had this.

Originally Posted by dopey 

I point stuff like this out to my daughter all the time. It is an example of why fashion is evil. I can assure you that when Polo first developed the Princeton Soft model, there was no washed denim model. Just stuff like what I described. But then some idiot said "we can't make a tan linen burlap model - we did that last year" so someone said "let's do denim!!!! That's new!!" "No. Let's do 'washed denim' It's like vintage, only clean." And there you have it.

Originally Posted by mafoofan 

Well, fair warning: anyone who posts a washed denim, flap-patch-pocketed, hook-vented blazer in the good taste thread gets zero foo points forever. I don't care if you die then come back as the Duke of Windsor and post an outfit that makes me cry it's so good. Zero foo points.

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH 

Well this is my approach:

All single vents are fail
A hook vent is a single vent
Therefore, a hook vent is fail.

Originally Posted by Manton 

No different than what English tailors still typically do for overcoats.