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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 393

post #5881 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Dude, he makes the same jacket for everybody: notched lapels, three-roll-two, double vents, and patch pockets plus double stitching if no matching trousers. It's not rocket science. Mariano's advice on style only comes into play when you start doing crazy stuff outside the realm of normalcy. Like my overcoat. For wardrobe staples, his contribution is not styling, but overseeing the fitting process.

But this part is really important. And I don't think there is a set of 4-5 rules that's going to guarantee you a perfect result. Unless you pay up and go to a top tailor.
post #5882 of 12663
It speaks to the perils of bespoke clothing that he is necessary at all.
post #5883 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

But this part is really important. And I don't think there is a set of 4-5 rules that's going to guarantee you a perfect result. Unless you pay up and go to a top tailor.

Yes, the fitting process is absolutely crucial. But so is surgery when you have certain kinds of illnesses. In either case, you must let the professionals do their work. Your role is to pick the right professional.
post #5884 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Wait, so that we're clear, we're talking about one jacket, with a breast pocket that is a patch, and hip pockets that are simply welted, flapped pockets, as on a suit? If so, yes, I'm having a hard time fathoming it.
No. Flap on patch hip pockets. That is what I wrote. Not regular welted flap pockets.
post #5885 of 12663
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post #5886 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

No. Flap on patch hip pockets. That is what I wrote. Not regular welted flap pockets.

Then that makes a lot more sense.

But that is one heavily committed blazer.
post #5887 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by Balfour View Post


Do the cognescenti regard patch pockets as essential?  I know they are very popular here, but do people regard a blazer with flapped pockets as wrong?

Definitely not.
post #5888 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

Definitely not.

This is you being English.
post #5889 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Yes, the fitting process is absolutely crucial. But so is surgery when you have certain kinds of illnesses. In either case, you must let the professionals do their work. Your role is to pick the right professional.

Agreed. But we have already established that the "right professional" is out of RD's price range. I thought the argument was whether you could take a "foolproof" set of instructions, given to you by some sage but not understood by you (RD, not talking about you, this is just a hypothetical), to a lesser professional and come out with something good. My vote is no, or at least probably not.

Also if you're talking about a complete n00b, then they can't be trusted to pick the "right professional" even if they have the money. They need a set of rules for that too.

And if you're going to spend that much money, wouldn't you want to develop your own taste first and get something that you really know and enjoy rather than just have something that will get a few :foo:s on SF?
post #5890 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Really? I have several for summer. PRL makes an unconstructed one in linen called the "Princeton Soft" It is near perfect and is no doubt a copy of a classic trad model his buyers found (I commend people to ebay and Saks to hunt some down). It also has lapped seams, which I left out of the specs. I also have a bunch of fresco suits made up the same way from Chipp2/Winston Tailors.

i think i may have just bought that very same jacket, in khaki. they had none in navy when i was there. is it a cotton/linen blend?
post #5891 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

And if you're going to spend that much money, wouldn't you want to develop your own taste first and get something that you really know and enjoy rather than just have something that will get a few :foo:s on SF?

I carefully regulate inflation levels to ensure that a foo.gif remains quite valuable.
post #5892 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

i think i may have just bought that very same jacket, in khaki. they had none in navy when i was there. is it a cotton/linen blend?

Could be. Princeton Soft is the model name. It has a patch breast pocket, patch and flap hip pockets. Lapped seams. And a single hook vent. yay!! Also, darts. The versions I have seen are unlined, except for maybe the shoulders. The chest has light fusing under the French facing. I think it is made in a variety of fabrics. I have never seen cotton/linen, but that doesn't mean anything.

I love it and it is a good example of how RTW can excel.
post #5893 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I carefully regulate inflation levels to ensure that a foo.gif remains quite valuable.
It's like a taxi medallion. I have already seen signs of a healthy secondary market.
post #5894 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Could be. Princeton Soft is the model name. It has a patch breast pocket, patch and flap hip pockets. Lapped seams. And a single hook vent. yay!! Also, darts. The versions I have seen are unlined, except for maybe the shoulders. The chest has light fusing under the French facing. I think it is made in a variety of fabrics. I have never seen cotton/linen, but that doesn't mean anything.

I love it and it is a good example of how RTW can excel.
From ebay:
Here is a hideous version done in washed denim. I am showing it because the washing shows the detail very well:



This is a more normal one in cotton, which is nicer, though it doesn't seem very useful to me:


Mine are in a khaki linen burlap, a linen navy herringbone and a silk/linen large glencheck
post #5895 of 12663
Great, now someone is going to buy the denim one.
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