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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 392

post #5866 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post


This is not the only way, but it will be correct and you won't regret it later:

Navy hopsack (wool, of course)
Notched lapels
Patch pockets
Double-stitching
3-roll-2 buttoning
Brown horn buttons
Double vents


Do the cognescenti regard patch pockets as essential?  I know they are very popular here, but do people regard a blazer with flapped pockets as wrong?

post #5867 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

I don't disagree with this as a general proposition, but I like to wear tweed in the city - pretty much every weekend - and that is when I get the most of my English-style shirts. I like the way patterned shirts and patterned tweeds go together, and while I sometimes wear Jermyn Street style shirts with suits in the English City Gent way, more often, I wear them with tweeds.
Like today - I am wearing a fancy check brushed cotton shirt (six colors on white ground) with a gun club sportcoat (the original LL Gun Club), a cream cashmere/silk sweater vest and a black grenadine tie. While the brushed cotton of the shirt makes it not for suits, even if it were in regular cotton, I would be more likely to wear it with a tweed sportcoat (also, it has a button down collar, but the point is still the same)

Do you wear pattered cotton poplin under your Tweeds?
post #5868 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

This is not the only way, but it will be correct and you won't regret it later:

Navy hopsack (wool, of course)
Notched lapels
Patch and flap pockets
Patch breast pocket
Double-stitching
3-roll-2 buttoning
Brown horn buttons
Single-hook vent
FTFY, though I don't have one like this (unless you count linen hopsack)
post #5869 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post

Do you wear pattered cotton poplin under your Tweeds?
Yes. Often, though OCBDs are the most common. I only have two brushed cotton shirts, one of which is an identical replacement of a worn-out one, so those are probably in third place.
post #5870 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Balfour View Post


Do the cognescenti regard patch pockets as essential?  I know they are very popular here, but do people regard a blazer with flapped pockets as wrong?

Not wrong, per se, but patch pockets clearly delineate it as an odd jacket, as opposed to one belonging to a suit. Also, if you do flap pockets, you have to give up on the double-stitching as well. That leaves only the buttons to distinguish, which means you need to go metal or MoP to clearly signal the jacket is a blazer. I find that option less versatile. Also, with the patch pockets, I can always switch to blazer-exclusive buttons later if I like. It doesn't work the other way around.
post #5871 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

But finding "two equally well-fitting coats" is no easy thing--particularly on a limited budget. For the price you're talking, I'd look for the guy who can give me the best fit possible, and forget about house style.

I admire your faith in bespoke, something you share with Vox. But even if I disregard all the horrible custom and semi-custom stuff that's overrun the forum, the tailors in my parts make terribly dowdy clothes for aged businessmen. Low gorge, low notch, a cut so voluminous it might as well be RTW. As such, I think focusing on fit at the exclusion of cut and style is a terrible mistake.
post #5872 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post


I thought it was closer to $2k for a SC, and I believe that is CMT.

Still, the prices are very reasonable. I've been tempted for quite some time to take the plunge.

What is CMT? I still think $2k for a sportcoat is reasonable. I have seen some MTM coats go for $1500.

post #5873 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

FTFY, though I don't have one like this (unless you count linen hopsack)

But this could lead to a jacket with a patch breast pocket and flapped hip pockets . . . a strange beast on the UWS.
post #5874 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

Even a basic navy blazer could result in a disaster for a newbie going bespoke. If one can afford a reputable tailor who can give solid advice, it's less of a problem - but that's not always the case. If I were to go bespoke there is no way I could afford Rubinacci or NSM, for example - I'd have to go with my current tailor, which is quite skilled at making stuff but is awful when it comes to styling details. I have to rely on myself for that.

 
How much is the retail price for a Rubinacci or NSM? eh.gif
post #5875 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

I admire your faith in bespoke, something you share with Vox. But even if I disregard all the horrible custom and semi-custom stuff that's overrun the forum, the tailors in my parts make terribly dowdy clothes for aged businessmen. I think focusing on fit at the exclusion of cut and style is a terrible mistake.

This is something I've struggled with. Atlanta is chalk full of the tailors you describe. Sure they'll say that they can do a natural shoulder with chest drape and a nipped waist, but I'd rather not gamble on it. Adding insult to injury, a place like Mashburn is too over-styled. Surrounded on both sides with no safe play.

While I admire those on the forum capable of maintaining relationships with overseas or out-of-town tailors, I know (from a cost and time standpoint) this isn't a possibility for me. So I'm left ready to step out, but with no real options. I'm sure I'll just pull the trigger on a local guy, but the uncertainty of the result always has me second-guessing myself.
post #5876 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Yes. Often, though OCBDs are the most common. I only have two brushed cotton shirts, one of which is an identical replacement of a worn-out one, so those are probably in third place.

I do it myself, but it never seems quite right. Poplin seems too refined for Tweed.

Acorn do some nice brushed cottons. I should order some.
post #5877 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

But this could lead to a jacket with a patch breast pocket and flapped hip pockets . . . a strange beast on the UWS.
Really? I have several for summer. PRL makes an unconstructed one in linen called the "Princeton Soft" It is near perfect and is no doubt a copy of a classic trad model his buyers found (I commend people to ebay and Saks to hunt some down). It also has lapped seams, which I left out of the specs. I also have a bunch of fresco suits made up the same way from Chipp2/Winston Tailors.
post #5878 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post

I do it myself, but it never seems quite right. Poplin seems too refined for Tweed.

Acorn do some nice brushed cottons. I should order some.
That's what I use. I am sorry I don't recall the line names or I would tell you which I have.
post #5879 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

This is something I've struggled with. Atlanta is chalk full of the tailors you describe. Sure they'll say that they can do a natural shoulder with chest drape and a nipped waist, but I'd rather not gamble on it. Adding insult to injury, a place like Mashburn is too over-styled. Surrounded on both sides with no safe play.

While I admire those on the forum capable of maintaining relationships with overseas or out-of-town tailors, I know (from a cost and time standpoint) this isn't a possibility for me. So I'm left ready to step out, but with no real options. I'm sure I'll just pull the trigger on a local guy, but the uncertainty of the result always has me second-guessing myself.

It's true, bespoke is a slow, pricey process. Can't change that. But for long-term planners, the time shouldn't be a problem. You don't need anything right now. Cost is another matter--but I suspect many can afford more than they think when they consider all their more frivolous purchases.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post

I do it myself, but it never seems quite right. Poplin seems too refined for Tweed.

Acorn do some nice brushed cottons. I should order some.

Nothin' wrong with poplin and tweed together. With shirtings, the pattern and color are what really define.
post #5880 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Really? I have several for summer. PRL makes an unconstructed one in linen called the "Princeton Soft" It is near perfect and is no doubt a copy of a classic trad model his buyers found (I commend people to ebay and Saks to hunt some down). It also has lapped seams, which I left out of the specs. I also have a bunch of fresco suits made up the same way from Chipp2/Winston Tailors.

Wait, so that we're clear, we're talking about one jacket, with a breast pocket that is a patch, and hip pockets that are simply welted, flapped pockets, as on a suit? If so, yes, I'm having a hard time fathoming it.
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