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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 391

post #5851 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

The problem with Spanish tailoring is that, from what I've seen around (there are lots of bespoke-wearing people where I work at) the jackets are usually rather constructed, with a very rigid canvas, and the chest is leaner than I'd like. No drape to be seen. Tailors here are always reticent to change their in-house style, but there may be something different around. I need to look for it.

House style is a thing of marginal difference relative to fit and features. I'd take a well-fit Huntsman over a so-so-fit Rubinacci any day.
post #5852 of 12602
@Foo's guideline , my current blazer failed miserably, although it fits me very well.
post #5853 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I know, I know. But someone has got to be the voice of reason, no?

If they could exercise that restraint, they could look great in RTW. There's no shortage of blazers, even at discount prices.

If they can't manage that, well ...
post #5854 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

You have a point when it comes to budget. But all the buying and selling of "lesser" things must add up. I would rather have one nice bespoke navy blazer than three our four random RTW jackets.

If someone were to give you a more-or-less "fool-proof" set of guidelines for ordering something like a blue blazer, would you do it?

 

The thing of it is, the Zen analogy applies. You have to develop the muscle memory yourself. No shortcuts.

Someone could tell you a playbook of what to do, but almost no one (we are too haughty) would be willing to submit to it wholesale.

And even if you did, could you embody these newfound "correct" clothes? Or would you be completely out of your own skin in somebody else's ideas?

No, we have to learn to embody it. RDiaz will be familiar with a Spanish proverb: Mono vestido de seda mono se queda. (A monkey dressed in silk stays a monkey, viz., you can dress them up, but you can't take them out, or something along those lines.)

First you have to learn how to evolve from an ape.

 

All the same, I like your laundry list for a blazer.

post #5855 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post


House style is a thing of marginal difference relative to fit and features. I'd take a well-fit Huntsman over a so-so-fit Rubinacci any day.

 

 

Yup, but considering two equally well-fitting coats, I don't really like the Spanish school of tailoring. If I were to spend big bucks on one of the good tailors here, I'd rather look somewhere else - I love Steed's silhouette, for example. Problem is, I don't think I will ever be able to afford a Steed jacket. Their MTM, well, maybe...

post #5856 of 12602
I don't believe such rules exist. If it were so easy to do, people like Rubinacci wouldn't be making loads advising on these kinds of decisions.
post #5857 of 12602
Thread Starter 
Diaz, I have heard that about Spanish tailoring. Still, why not give it a shot? Foo does have a point about fit v. cut. Also, you might be able to get them to make changes on the margins.

Finally, since you are a Spaniard in Spain, no harm in looking the part, eh?
post #5858 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

NSM costs like 1/3 of Rubinacci.

Anyway, I thought there were good tailors in Spain? I don't know who they are, admittedly ...

So NSM would start at 2k for a suit? That is actually very reasonable. It looks like they come to NYC every few months.

 

Edited because I realized the November date was past, not in the future.

post #5859 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

So NSM would start at 2k for a suit? That is actually very reasonable. It looks like they come to NYC every few months.

Edited because I realized the November date was past, not in the future.

I thought it was closer to $2k for a SC, and I believe that is CMT.

Still, the prices are very reasonable. I've been tempted for quite some time to take the plunge.
post #5860 of 12602
one of my biggest regret (obviously before SF) was a Bespoke opportunity in London; when I was single and before having to pay for kids college. I always thought it was beyond my means, due to buying shitty stuff, but knowing what I know now, smart buying and saving...although I'm slowly planning for a comeback
post #5861 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

Yup, but considering two equally well-fitting coats, I don't really like the Spanish school of tailoring. If I were to spend big bucks on one of the good tailors here, I'd rather look somewhere else - I love Steed's silhouette, for example. Problem is, I don't think I will ever be able to afford a Steed jacket. Their MTM, well, maybe...

But finding "two equally well-fitting coats" is no easy thing--particularly on a limited budget. For the price you're talking, I'd look for the guy who can give me the best fit possible, and forget about house style.
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

I don't believe such rules exist. If it were so easy to do, people like Rubinacci wouldn't be making loads advising on these kinds of decisions.

Dude, he makes the same jacket for everybody: notched lapels, three-roll-two, double vents, and patch pockets plus double stitching if no matching trousers. It's not rocket science. Mariano's advice on style only comes into play when you start doing crazy stuff outside the realm of normalcy. Like my overcoat. For wardrobe staples, his contribution is not styling, but overseeing the fitting process.
post #5862 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

The problem with fancier shirts per the English city tradition is that they are very limiting unless one dresses in the English city tradition. Of course, you can put together a good outfit with a boldly colored and patterned shirt, but it will be much harder to use that shirt across the rest of your wardrobe if you like to, say, wear tweed in the city. That's why the blue shirt should still be viewed as a close-to-universal staple....
I don't disagree with this as a general proposition, but I like to wear tweed in the city - pretty much every weekend - and that is when I get the most of my English-style shirts. I like the way patterned shirts and patterned tweeds go together, and while I sometimes wear Jermyn Street style shirts with suits in the English City Gent way, more often, I wear them with tweeds.
Like today - I am wearing a fancy check brushed cotton shirt (six colors on white ground) with a gun club sportcoat (the original LL Gun Club), a cream cashmere/silk sweater vest and a black grenadine tie. While the brushed cotton of the shirt makes it not for suits, even if it were in regular cotton, I would be more likely to wear it with a tweed sportcoat (also, it has a button down collar, but the point is still the same)
post #5863 of 12602
But you are advanced and not to be mimicked.
post #5864 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Diaz, I have heard that about Spanish tailoring. Still, why not give it a shot? Foo does have a point about fit v. cut. Also, you might be able to get them to make changes on the margins.

Finally, since you are a Spaniard in Spain, no harm in looking the part, eh?

 

Guess so. That is why I wanted to give it a shot with my current tailor if I am convinced by more samples of his work. He has fitted me for MTM already and kinda knows what I need in terms of fit (silhouette and styling not so much), so it may work, and at a good price. I think I've even convinced him to remove shoulder pads from future commissions (something he was very stubborn with), so heck, I may be on to something lol8[1].gif

post #5865 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

But you are advanced in age and so not to be mimicked.
FTFY
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