Or a cream silk square.
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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 390
Styleforum Top Pickspost #5837 of 139622/8/13 at 7:15am
Even a basic navy blazer could result in a disaster for a newbie going bespoke. If one can afford a reputable tailor who can give solid advice, it's less of a problem - but that's not always the case. If I were to go bespoke there is no way I could afford Rubinacci or NSM, for example - I'd have to go with my current tailor, which is quite skilled at making stuff but is awful when it comes to styling details. I have to rely on myself for that.post #5838 of 139622/8/13 at 7:17amYou have a point when it comes to budget. But all the buying and selling of "lesser" things must add up. I would rather have one nice bespoke navy blazer than three our four random RTW jackets.
If someone were to give you a more-or-less "fool-proof" set of guidelines for ordering something like a blue blazer, would you do it?post #5839 of 139622/8/13 at 7:21amThread Starterpost #5840 of 139622/8/13 at 7:24ampost #5841 of 139622/8/13 at 7:26ampost #5842 of 139622/8/13 at 7:31ampost #5843 of 139622/8/13 at 7:32ampost #5844 of 139622/8/13 at 7:34am
This is not the only way, but it will be correct and you won't regret it later:
Navy hopsack (wool, of course)
Brown horn buttons
Double ventspost #5845 of 139622/8/13 at 7:35amQuote:
Still out of my price range, IIRC.
My current tailor is not one of the "good ones", but he charges around €1000-1200 for a bespoke jacket made of most Holland & Sherry cloths (he's got some Scabal books too), which is something that helps tremendously. I must admit that I'm not sure if it's decent bespoke though - I need to see more samples of his work.
The problem with Spanish tailoring is that, from what I've seen around (there are lots of bespoke-wearing people where I work at) the jackets are usually rather constructed, with a very rigid canvas, and the chest is leaner than I'd like. No drape to be seen. Tailors here are always reticent to change their in-house style, but there may be something different around. I need to look for it.post #5846 of 139622/8/13 at 7:35amThread Starterpost #5847 of 139622/8/13 at 7:36ampost #5848 of 139622/8/13 at 7:37ampost #5849 of 139622/8/13 at 7:37amQuote:
I know, I know. But someone has got to be the voice of reason, no?post #5850 of 139622/8/13 at 7:38amThe problem is that quality does not necessarily always transpose to price in a linear manner, certainly not with bespoke. I am sure that there are old chaps tucked away in Italian towns who will make you a coat that is as good as NSM for half the price. But one doesn't find them easily, and once you do (and post it on SF), prices will triple in a couple of years.
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