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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 390

post #5836 of 12663
There is an extent to which experimentation in RTW makes sense. But there are basics that you can be assured of needing, like a navy blazer.

Or a cream silk square.
post #5837 of 12663

Even a basic navy blazer could result in a disaster for a newbie going bespoke. If one can afford a reputable tailor who can give solid advice, it's less of a problem - but that's not always the case. If I were to go bespoke there is no way I could afford Rubinacci or NSM, for example - I'd have to go with my current tailor, which is quite skilled at making stuff but is awful when it comes to styling details. I have to rely on myself for that.

post #5838 of 12663
You have a point when it comes to budget. But all the buying and selling of "lesser" things must add up. I would rather have one nice bespoke navy blazer than three our four random RTW jackets.

If someone were to give you a more-or-less "fool-proof" set of guidelines for ordering something like a blue blazer, would you do it?
post #5839 of 12663
Thread Starter 
NSM costs like 1/3 of Rubinacci.

Anyway, I thought there were good tailors in Spain? I don't know who they are, admittedly ...
post #5840 of 12663
Yes, what are the guidelines for a blue blazer.
post #5841 of 12663

I guess I would, yes - it's a jackpot, because a first bespoke attempt might go well as much as it might go wrong, but I guess I would.

post #5842 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

The tie is wool.

i like it. looks red in the pic though on my monitor, not orange.
post #5843 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

NSM costs like 1/3 of Rubinacci.

panta is a great value for custom clothing as well, plus you get solid advise and input along the way. ed is awesome.
post #5844 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by driftking View Post

Yes, what are the guidelines for a blue blazer.

This is not the only way, but it will be correct and you won't regret it later:

Navy hopsack (wool, of course)
Notched lapels
Patch pockets
Double-stitching
3-roll-2 buttoning
Brown horn buttons
Double vents
post #5845 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

NSM costs like 1/3 of Rubinacci.

Anyway, I thought there were good tailors in Spain? I don't know who they are, admittedly ...

 

Still out of my price range, IIRC.

 

My current tailor is not one of the "good ones", but he charges around €1000-1200 for a bespoke jacket made of most Holland & Sherry cloths (he's got some Scabal books too), which is something that helps tremendously. I must admit that I'm not sure if it's decent bespoke though - I need to see more samples of his work.

 

The problem with Spanish tailoring is that, from what I've seen around (there are lots of bespoke-wearing people where I work at) the jackets are usually rather constructed, with a very rigid canvas, and the chest is leaner than I'd like. No drape to be seen. Tailors here are always reticent to change their in-house style, but there may be something different around. I need to look for it.

post #5846 of 12663
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by driftking View Post

Yes, what are the guidelines for a blue blazer.
it should be made in Naples, or look like it was.
post #5847 of 12663
Foo, the trouble with the approach you're suggesting is that it would require noobs to exercise the restraint that so many of our posters have demonstrated they lack, or have no interest in.
post #5848 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

it should be made in Naples, or look like it was.

Scary thing is, I can't tell if you're being facetious.
post #5849 of 12663
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

Foo, the trouble with the approach you're suggesting is that it would require noobs to exercise the restraint that so many of our posters have demonstrated they lack, or have no interest in.

I know, I know. But someone has got to be the voice of reason, no?
post #5850 of 12663
The problem is that quality does not necessarily always transpose to price in a linear manner, certainly not with bespoke. I am sure that there are old chaps tucked away in Italian towns who will make you a coat that is as good as NSM for half the price. But one doesn't find them easily, and once you do (and post it on SF), prices will triple in a couple of years.
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