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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 379

post #5671 of 12602
I agree the jacket is no good, but I don't think you're going to get him to stop wearing it or cut it into ties.

That said--yes, I'd take one of those ties too.
post #5672 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by acridsheep View Post

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I may not have the "taste" requiered for this thread, but I read a few pages ago that good taste might be something would inspire you to copy... and this color combination is one I would like to copy. Nice shoes acridsheep!

post #5673 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I would avoid putting your two patterns on your tie and square. It tends to further distinguish them as ornaments, which you don't want to do.Putting them on jacket and square can also be problematic, as it blocks off one part of your outfit as patterned and the other as not.

So, do you dislike the 'Italian Background' (at least to me defined as a light blue shirt w/ a navy tie (both solid), often used to compliment a heavily patterned SC), or is it just that you feel it can usually be improved upon?
post #5674 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

So, do you dislike the 'Italian Background' (at least to me defined as a light blue shirt w/ a navy tie, often used to compliment a heavily patterned SC), or is it just that you feel it can usually be improved upon?

I wrote about just that here.

The short answer to your question is that I would probably add a pattern to the tie or shirt in that instance.
post #5675 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I wrote about just that here.

The short answer to your question is that I would probably add a pattern to the tie or shirt in that instance.
That is a good article/post/entry, but I don't think it really addresses the Italian look, which tends to be almost mod-like in its austerity. For the reasons you explain, the illustration is great. But those same reasons also make it something else to begin with.
post #5676 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

That is a good article/post/entry, but I don't think it really addresses the Italian look, which tends to be almost mod-like in its austerity. For the reasons you explain, the illustration is great. But those same reasons also make it something else to begin with.

I suppose the genesis of my analysis is that I don't think this is true. Yes, we do imagine an "almost mod-like" austerity when we think of the Italian business uniform. And one does see it in Italy. However, the real commonality is that everyone uses blue for the background or dominant color of their shirts and ties 90% of the time--not that they always wear solid versions of either. The Italian icons of stylish dress use the palette, but extend it, and they only very rarely do all solids like people might picture in their heads.

Anyway, the ultimate point is that the color-block look is really not something to endeavor for. Talented Italians don't epitomize it, so it's odd that we do.
post #5677 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

stitch, the jacket is the problem. It has super limited usefullness. It's really a creature of the early 60s. Sell it to DocHolliday.

Ah but for those lapels. They don't even fit in the picture.

Tough coat to wear.
post #5678 of 12602
Thread Starter 
actually my first thought on seeing that post was "No actual Italian ever wears the contrast collar, what's going on here?" Iaccoca, being American, doesn't count.
post #5679 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

No, this is not going in the right direction. The pattern density of the tie and jacket are extremely close. Just look at the size and spacing of the details and changes in color. Also, the shirt looks very purple--not an appropriate shade for a countrified outfit.

yes, i noticed that. i would have worn a chocolate grenadine, but i dont have one yet. should have paired it with a more light blue, blue shirt as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

stitch, the jacket is the problem. It has super limited usefullness. It's really a creature of the early 60s. Sell it to DocHolliday.
It almost demands a white shirt, or very pale blue or pink--so pale you have to double take to notice there's a color. Saturated colors are not good for that jacket.
The fabric would make a nice tie though. You can probably get four ties out of the two back panels. I will take one, thx.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I agree the jacket is no good, but I don't think you're going to get him to stop wearing it or cut it into ties.
That said--yes, I'd take one of those ties too.

lol, if i make the ties ill let you know. $200 a pop fair price?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

Ah but for those lapels. They don't even fit in the picture.

Tough coat to wear.

doc, you interested in teh jacket? you can fix the lapels. also, the angle is making them look larger than they are i think.
post #5680 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

actually my first thought on seeing that post was "No actual Italian ever wears the contrast collar, what's going on here?" Iaccoca, being American, doesn't count.

Mariano does. And Feltri, apparently.

The point is that the "uniform" is not nearly as "uniform" as people think. Some people fight the man or the system. Well, I'm fighting the cartoon.
post #5681 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

stitch, the jacket is the problem. It has super limited usefullness. It's really a creature of the early 60s. Sell it to DocHolliday.

It almost demands a white shirt, or very pale blue or pink--so pale you have to double take to notice there's a color. Saturated colors are not good for that jacket.

The fabric would make a nice tie though. You can probably get four ties out of the two back panels. I will take one, thx.

If this happens, I'm in for a tie.

post #5682 of 12602
Thread Starter 
Mariano wears them with morning dress, at least I saw him in a pic once, but with regular suits? That is something I have never, ever seen in Italy.

I disagree a little with your assessment of the Italian businessman in this respect. I don't think their ties are as universally blue as you do. I see lots of other colors, typically very muted, dark burg, bottle green, etc. never bright but not always blue.
post #5683 of 12602
You are absolutely right, the ties are not always blue. But blue is the most common color, and we are essentially on the same page: my point is that it's a mistake to think of the "Italian uniform" as being so simple as people generally imagine. It isn't. To the extent well-dressed Italian men follow it, you're not going to see so much of the all-solid combinations people come up with on the internet to mimic them. What's blue often is not merely blue.

Mariano reported to me that he wears white collared shirts with suits when he wants to be very businessy. Though I've never seen him do it. I just have no reason to disbelieve him.
post #5684 of 12602
Looks like a very fine lined shirt here.

post #5685 of 12602
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Excellent--except for the black shoes. Great square execution. I'm not taking this into account for scoring, but since this is bespoke, I'd be remiss not to point out a couple of things: the waist nipping is rather accute, and all that empty chest space is calling for a top row of vestigial buttons. Both are easy fixes. Otherwise, the tailor (Steed) has done a wonderful job. Some would say the sleeves could be shorter, but you are still showing a sliver of cuff. So it's a matter of personal preference.

Thank ou for showing how to do a cream square right! Folks, this is how effective and easy it can be. Also, notice how it's stuffed.

This score would likely be a notch higher if not for the shoes.

Final score: foo.giffoo.giffoo.gif

Yay! I agree on the shoes and I was requested to wear black shoes as it was an event I was working. Otherwise it's mostly always brown for me. I plan to wear it as is this season and see if we need to add buttons later. I like the unique flair the 4 button adds. I like the waist as is and I believe Edwin agrees as he pins it!
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