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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 336

post #5026 of 13589
I understand. But take that picture of Beppe (sorry, don't know his last name): he wears dark grey pants, red socks and suede shoes, and looks smashing. I wouldn't be convinced by a description of what he wears, at all.

(I'm not saying that combination will look smashing on anyone.)
post #5027 of 13589
Beppe doesn't need a last name. Only people who are subject to laws need a full name.

Edit: Nevermind. Jesus was subjected to laws.
post #5028 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Beppe doesn't need a last name. Only people who are subject to laws need a full name.

Edit: Nevermind. Jesus was subjected to laws.

rotflmao.gif
post #5029 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I think people are mistaking what worsted means. You can have a textured worsted, like worsted flannel (which would have a defined twill weave, btw). Worsted does not automatically mean shiny suit fabric.

http://kws.atlantia.sca.org/Woolen_vs_Worsted_Explained.pdf

Since nearly all cloth nowadays is made with worsted yarns, in my experience that term has evolved into a descriptor for hard finished plain weaves or twills.

If I told a tailor I wanted a worsted, I can't imagine he'd ever hand me a fresco or worsted flannel book.
post #5030 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by NOBD View Post

I understand. But take that picture of Beppe (sorry, don't know his last name): he wears dark grey pants, red socks and suede shoes, and looks smashing. I wouldn't be convinced by a description of what he wears, at all.

(I'm not saying that combination will look smashing on anyone.)

Stylistically speaking, in law or otherwise, there are usually exceptions to a principle. It's really about how cogently you articulate that exception, and if you're the one who's game enough, and succeeds.

Lovelace, you're quite right -- At the tailors, trousers are usually cut with break, and on the vertically challenged, a whisper of break. For those who do not visit the tailors, well, I don't really notice, but I haven't noticed either their socks or shoes. That probably speaks to the degree of break on their trousers.
post #5031 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tirailleur1 View Post


I'm a mid-grey guy myself. But I do have a charcoal suit.

thats partly the reason, foo said charcoal pants dont work is because they look like orphaned suit pants.


also, foo you look great in that picture with you and MR.
post #5032 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post


It is entirely appropriate to wear cuff links with a blazer.

Blazers straddle the gap between the formality of a suit and the casualness of a sports coat.

I thought Italians had an aversion to cuff links though.

Beppe "just plain Beppe" Modenese used to design jewellery so that could largely explain his always wearing cufflinks.

But I'm with you - I'll occasionally wear FC with a blazer though not with other odd jackets.
post #5033 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by etkl View Post
Now we're done. At least I am. Going to see 56 and Up.If you don't know, it's the latest in a series of movies about a group of people from a cross-section of British society as they grow up and grow old. You should see it. You might learn something but I seriously doubt it.

That's been a wonderful series.

post #5034 of 13589
I agree that the guy in that pic looks great. But he's breaking quite a few rules beginners (incl me) ought to abide. In addition to the ones mentioned, I think the brown suede chukkas are a little discordant w/ the FC shirt, shiny tie and PS and the blazer. I'd wear the bottom half w/ an oxford shirt, tweed sport coat, and knit tie. But again, he looks great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Truly? I see zero evidence of a brushed nap. Every worsted flannel I've examined has a much less obvious weave due to having a fuzzier, brushed surface.

Anyway, like I said, even if the cloth is technically a worsted flannel, does it look like what you'd want for a classic "grey flannel suit?"
Really? I have to disagree. You can make the case fresco is often singled out as its own species, but hopsack is soundly established within the "worsted" genre.
Hopsack is worsted. I just don't think people have that in mind when using the term.

The LE looks like flannel to me, but I think flannel comes in various degrees of fuzziness. Here's a pic of three flannels and a cavalry twill:
AppleMark

At center is the flannel blazer. I would call it woolen, but it isn't nearly as fuzzy as the Drapers flannel (light gray). It is much more fuzzy than the Daks pants in dark charcoal. The lighter charcoal pants are cavalry twill, just for comparison to show an obvious twill.

And to compare w/ some other weaves and shades of gray, here's the same four fabrics plus a Crispaire fresco (bottom left) and a worsted plain weave (top right).
AppleMark
post #5035 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovelace View Post

That's been a wonderful series.
Agreed. If youhaven't seen it, I'll let you know if this this is as good as the others. There is a certain amount of mystery and anticipation in seeing each one.
post #5036 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by etkl View Post


Agreed. If youhaven't seen it, I'll let you know if this this is as good as the others. There is a certain amount of mystery and anticipation in seeing each one.

 

I've seen it. I'm British, it was shown here last year, about May-ish as I recall.

 

I've seen all of them. From 28up 'live' due to my age and the earlier ones when they have been repeated.

 

Britain has changed hugely since 7up was first broadcast, and as such its a unique social record.

 

It represents the power of film, and film at its very best.

 

I hope you enjoy it.

post #5037 of 13589

I have been reading the posts with interest...Looking back, I think most of the animus is against perceived tone and the absolutism rather than content.


That, and the notion that one's ideas are more correct due having some historical grounding.

post #5038 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

I agree that the guy in that pic looks great. But he's breaking quite a few rules beginners (incl me) ought to abide. In addition to the ones mentioned, I think the brown suede chukkas are a little discordant w/ the FC shirt, shiny tie and PS and the blazer. I'd wear the bottom half w/ an oxford shirt, tweed sport coat, and knit tie. But again, he looks great.

Yes, the "but again" part is what really matters. smile.gif To me, at least.
post #5039 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

You can find a gray flannel suit and Harris tweed odd jacket at Macy's, Land's End, Men's Wearhouse, etc. I know you don't shop at these places, but a quick Googling isn't too much to ask, is it?

I just searched each of those places. First of all, none have a Harris tweed jacket. Of the three, none have any tweed jackets at all, except for possibly Land's End--but even those look likely to be worsted facsimiles.

As for grey flannel suits: none have any flannel suits at all except for (possibly) a Calvin Klein suit that Macy's calls "charcoal flannel" and is neither grey nor appears to be anything close to actual flannel. Land's End has separates it calls "flannel" but that are also clearly not flannel. Look at the close-up of the cloth. See the highly-defined twill weave? That is worsted, and not even worsted flannel, which would have a heavily brushed appearance and a much less obvious twill weave.

Honestly, if you think you found bonafide flannel or tweed at any of those places, it can only be because you don't actually know what flannel and tweed are. That is how ass-backwards and ignorant this forum has become.

Man, you are real piece of work. I have two woolen flannel suits and two worsted flannel suits, none of which I assure you is anything other than RTW. I have three Harris tweed jackets, all of which are RTW. One of the suits I bought at Nordstrom. If you went to the sites of the mentioned retailers, you're unlikely to find these in their current collections because they're showing clothes for spring!

You seriously suggest that Brooks Brothers, J Press, Ralph Lauren, Hickey Freeman, ad nauseum are 1) not RTW and 2) not selling any flannel or Harris tweed? You have crawled so far into your bubble of bespoke that you've lost touch with reality.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I wear French cuffs with my odd jackets regularly. Sure, I can see why a barrel cuff would be more fitting, but I think the difference is marginal relative to everything else. Your shirt style, choice of tie and square, etc., are infinitely more important.

"Do as I say, not as I do."
post #5040 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Man, you are real piece of work. I have two woolen flannel suits and two worsted flannel suits, none of which I assure you is anything other than RTW. I have three Harris tweed jackets, all of which are RTW. One of the suits I bought at Nordstrom. If you went to the sites of the mentioned retailers, you're unlikely to find these in their current collections because they're showing clothes for spring!

You're the one who said examples could be found at those websites, you dimwit. You didn't specify that a time machine was necessary to successfully execute the query.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch 
You seriously suggest that Brooks Brothers, J Press, Ralph Lauren, Hickey Freeman, ad nauseum are 1) not RTW and 2) not selling any flannel or Harris tweed? You have crawled so far into your bubble of bespoke that you've lost touch with reality.
"Do as I say, not as I do."

Look for Harris tweed jackets at Brooks and Hickey. You are almost sure not to find them--certainly not reliably. Yes, I've looked in the past. J. Press always has them, but they are hardly reflective of mainstream retail. Ralph Lauren I am not familiar with.

You missed the point I was making to Doc, which was simply that the rarity of an item in RTW says nothing about its status as a classic staple. Medium and light grey woolen flannel suits are remarkably difficult to find at retail, even though that are surely classic as classic gets.
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