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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 332

post #4966 of 8972
1/26/13 at 8:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan 
Hmm. What do you mean by not worsted? A blazer should be made out of a worsted cloth.

A blazer, if anything, should distinctly not be worsted.

Without some texture (hopsack, fresco, even flannel), it looks like a suitcoat. Blazers also like patch pockets and patch pockets on a worsted cloth always looks wrong (Phat Guido notwithstanding).
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post #4967 of 8972
1/26/13 at 8:34am
I think people are mistaking what worsted means. You can have a textured worsted, like worsted flannel (which would have a defined twill weave, btw). Worsted does not automatically mean shiny suit fabric.

http://kws.atlantia.sca.org/Woolen_vs_Worsted_Explained.pdf
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post #4968 of 8972
1/26/13 at 8:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

A blazer, if anything, should distinctly not be worsted.

Without some texture (hopsack, fresco, even flannel), it looks like a suitcoat. Blazers also like patch pockets and patch pockets on a worsted cloth always looks wrong (Phat Guido notwithstanding).

Hopsack and fresco are worsted cloths. They just have more open weaves.

I think a flannel blazer is an oddball garment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I think people are mistaking what worsted means. You can have a textured worsted, like worsted flannel (which would have a defined twill weave, btw). Worsted does not automatically mean shiny suit fabric.

http://kws.atlantia.sca.org/Woolen_vs_Worsted_Explained.pdf

I am not mistaking anything. I understand the difference. And I am also familiar with worsted flannels. I own two suits made of the stuff. Yes, you can find the twill weave, but you have to look closely. From normal viewing distance (say, three to five feet away), you shouldn't be able to see it.

Now look at the "flannel" separates at Land's End. That is clearly not a worsted flannel. It has none of the brushed texture you would expect to find over the twill base.
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post #4969 of 8972
1/26/13 at 8:58am
What are we talking about? This?

http://www.landsend.com/pp/mens-tailored-wool-flannel-coat~227397_-1.html

Without feeling it, that looks like it could be worsted flannel to me.
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post #4970 of 8972
1/26/13 at 9:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

What are we talking about? This?

http://www.landsend.com/pp/mens-tailored-wool-flannel-coat~227397_-1.html

Without feeling it, that looks like it could be worsted flannel to me.

Yes. Look at the close-up of the cloth. If you were told nothing, would you say it were a worsted flannel? I sincerely doubt it. And if it is a worsted flannel, and barely brushed with barely any flannel texture at all, it is only technically worsted flannel, and certainly would not suffice for a classic "grey flannel suit."
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post #4971 of 8972
1/26/13 at 9:11am

Some people, even those with massive amounts of excellent knowledge, would do well with a nice tall cool glass of polish with a sidecar of tact once in a while.

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post #4972 of 8972
1/26/13 at 9:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post


Yes. Look at the close-up of the cloth. If you were told nothing, would you say it were a worsted flannel? I sincerely doubt it. And if it is a worsted flannel, and barely brushed with barely any flannel texture at all, it is only technically worsted flannel, and certainly would not suffice for a classic "grey flannel suit."

 


I would assume that it would be terribly presumptuous for one to clearly tell fabrication from the computer screen.

 

But then again you are foo... you are always right.

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post #4973 of 8972
1/26/13 at 9:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Yes. Look at the close-up of the cloth. If you were told nothing, would you say it were a worsted flannel? I sincerely doubt it. And if it is a worsted flannel, and barely brushed with barely any flannel texture at all, it is only technically worsted flannel, and certainly would not suffice for a classic "grey flannel suit."

Yea, I've seen swatches of worsted flannel with degrees of nappy-ness (is that a PC term?). Some look like the Lands End one. I assume that's just a super up-close shot. Look how big the twill weave is. If you zoomed in on some worsted flannel, it would look like that.

Anyway, regarding charcoal pants - whatever you guys think of Foo's delivery, I think he's more or less right. I don't think it's bad to own one or two pairs in the closet. I do. But they get worn maybe two or three times a year? Most well dressed gentlemen I know also rarely charcoal pants. That doesn't mean you'll look bad in charcoal pants, it simply means that FME, most well dressed men I know rarely wear them.
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post #4974 of 8972
1/26/13 at 9:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Anyway, regarding charcoal pants - whatever you guys think of Foo's delivery, I think he's more or less right. I don't think it's bad to own one or two pairs in the closet. I do. But they get worn maybe two or three times a year? Most well dressed gentlemen I know also rarely charcoal pants. That doesn't mean you'll look bad in charcoal pants, it simply means that FME, most well dressed men I know rarely wear them.

Definitely agree, though like you, I am not as vehement as foo.gif. I have a couple of pairs, and don't wear them often. Mid-grey is where its at.
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post #4975 of 8972
1/26/13 at 9:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


Yea, I've seen swatches of worsted flannel with degrees of nappy-ness (is that a PC term?). Some look like the Lands End one. I assume that's just a super up-close shot. Look how big the twill weave is. If you zoomed in on some worsted flannel, it would look like that.

Anyway, regarding charcoal pants - whatever you guys think of Foo's delivery, I think he's more or less right. I don't think it's bad to own one or two pairs in the closet. I do. But they get worn maybe two or three times a year? Most well dressed gentlemen I know also rarely charcoal pants. That doesn't mean you'll look bad in charcoal pants, it simply means that FME, most well dressed men I know rarely wear them.

That is different from CHARCOAL PANTS ARE BAD AND ALL OF YOU ARE IGNORANT PLEBS LISTEN TO ME

 

I personally wouldn't necessarily wear charcoal pants myself, but I have seen them executed well. You might rarely wear yours. But I am sure that there are many things in your closet that your rarely wear as well.

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post #4976 of 8972
1/26/13 at 9:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post


Definitely agree, though like you, I am not as vehement as foo.gif. I have a couple of pairs, and don't wear them often. Mid-grey is where its at.


I'm a mid-grey guy myself. But I do have a charcoal suit.

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post #4977 of 8972
1/26/13 at 9:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick R View Post

Can I presume navy would have the same fault? If you kill navy and charcoal from your pant options, what are good staple colors to use?
Unfortunately, i agree w/ Foo on this too, but not quite as dogmatically. I have owned navy pants and rarely wore them, so I gave them away. I own and like dark charcoal pants in light and heavy weights, but I rarely ever wear them w/ coat and tie. The lightweight ones are worn often with a barong. The heavyweight ones with sweaters.

 

I don't wear charcoal pants with coat and tie. But they are great with lighter colored sweaters.

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post #4978 of 8972
1/26/13 at 9:31am
It stands as good advice though: if you're just starting to build a wardrobe, you should not buy navy or charcoal trousers before having a bunch of lights and mid-greys in the closet, in different weaves and weights. You may be the exception to this rule and look great in those trous, but one things is for sure: you will be building an unorthodox wardrobe, and then find it difficult to use a lot of the other advice given on here. That seems like it will just make things harder on yourself for no reason.
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post #4979 of 8972
1/26/13 at 9:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Yea, I've seen swatches of worsted flannel with degrees of nappy-ness (is that a PC term?). Some look like the Lands End one. I assume that's just a super up-close shot. Look how big the twill weave is. If you zoomed in on some worsted flannel, it would look like that.

Anyway, regarding charcoal pants - whatever you guys think of Foo's delivery, I think he's more or less right. I don't think it's bad to own one or two pairs in the closet. I do. But they get worn maybe two or three times a year? Most well dressed gentlemen I know also rarely charcoal pants. That doesn't mean you'll look bad in charcoal pants, it simply means that FME, most well dressed men I know rarely wear them.

I have no quibble with your experience or tone but my experience is quite the opposite and I wear regularly wear charcoal pants, for example, with a black and white glen plaid sportcoat. Moreover every swatchbook of trousering I've ever seen includes variations of charcoal in worsted and/or flannel.
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post #4980 of 8972
1/26/13 at 9:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

It stands as good advice though: if you're just starting to build a wardrobe, you should not buy navy or charcoal trousers before having a bunch of lights and mid-greys in the closet, in different weaves and weights. You may be the exception to this rule and look great in those trous, but one things is for sure: you will be building an unorthodox wardrobe, and then find it difficult to use a lot of the other advice given on here. That seems like it will just make things harder on yourself for no reason.

Absolutely agree with this.

Charcoal trousers can work--with a light grey SC (which is hard to pull off in and of itself), or sometimes with sweaters. But yeah, they are not particularly versatile, are hard to do well, and I rarely wear mine for these reasons. And like you, I would not advise newbies to buy them. Mid grey, mid grey, mid grey, maybe some shade of brown.

Honestly, mine probably get worn the most when I do something dumb like mistakenly take all my mid-greys to the cleaners at the same time. Whoops.
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