whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 201

Thanks, guys.

To provide some contrast to the soft DB from yesterday, here's a much more traditional structured DB (note that the tailor has yet to fix the sleeves). A print tie with stars in honor of the election today.

unbelragazzo - that looks pretty good.

stitches - I think the blue shirt is far too dark. Unfortunately, the tie is a bit too bold for my taste as well.

Thanks, guys. This is my first suit from the maker, and it appears he favors a DB buttoning point much higher than I typically prefer. Thus, I have opted to button as shown (to the lowest point). Given this, the maker will tweak the internal anchor button a bit, so the coat falls better (unbelragazzo - this is the 'pulling' you referred to).

Fwiw, I typically button my DBs the traditional way. This suit is just an aberration.

Quote:

Originally Posted by unbelragazzo 

Also, ET - do you like the bellied lapels or straighter lapels more? Is bellied always associated with a softer construction? I know it's A&S, as well as Steed's style, but idk if that's just coincidence or if there's some aesthetic or practical necessity behind associating the lapel shape and the construction.

From what I have seen, bellied = softer construction. The suits I have from Dege, Welsh (the grey above), and M&M all have the straighter lapels. Anderson and Mina always have the bellied (and pics would indicate that Mahon and Steed do as well). I'm happy with both - I enjoy the differences, and try not to get too proscriptive in these matters.

Sorry, no clue if there is some practical notion equating lapel shape with construction. Maybe Despos or Jeffrey could comment?

ET, may I ask how did you get the lapel to roll like that if the suit was intended to be worn as a 6x2? I try to button my only DB coat (which is also a 6x2) as a 6x1 but the roll is unsightly.

RDiaz - I didn't tweak, or re-press, the lapels. I just simply buttoned to the lower button. Not sure what the my tailor did different to yours - would you have a pic?