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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 153

post #2281 of 12606
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

It's not really that monochrome, the suit is blue gray, or really gray with a blueish cast, and the tie is sort of a gunmetal brown, sort of brown with a grayish case, I honestly don't know what to call the color of the tie.

Ok, colours on my screen don't reflect that, scrap everything I said then. I would still like it better with a less hardcore ps but this last point is highly debatable in the case of well balanced outfits. The label notch seems to be a little high but we don't really discuss that here, especially considering the angles people use. Width is really nice and not retro because you don't dress glaringly retro, I think most would look like 70s horrrorshows with suits such as these.
post #2282 of 12606

Manton: I don't know exactly how to explain that to you (sorry but english is not my primary language).

What I'm saying is that the collar has been setted too high and, also if it grips to your neck without any problems, this doesn't mean that the collar is right: that is not a regional style.

Rubinacci for example is from the same region but the difference is there, you can notice this difference.

I don't want to criticise your jacket, I don't know who made it, but (from what I'm seeing) I'm pointing out that the collar has been setted improperly (the lapels are way too long because of that - the starting point near the neck is too short: trust me, that is not the regional style).

post #2283 of 12606
Thread Starter 
I have a long neck so I need a high collar. Low collars look terrible on me. They did a nice job with that collar, and indeed with all my collars. nearly all the Naples tailors that I have seen cut a high gorge, higher than anywhere else in Italy or on Savile Row.

The tailor was Solito.
post #2284 of 12606

"I have a long neck so I need a high collar. Low collars look terrible on me. They did a nice job with that collar, and indeed with all my collars.

The tailor was Solito."

 

This sounds like a new rule to me: usually we don't set collars so high because a person has a long neck. Low collars are bad either, there are right measurements for every person's body. You have to know how to proportionate these things. Proportions are the main point in making a great suit.

Some people think this collar setting is right, but you know, we have a very different method based on the old Domenico Caraceni and a very very long experience in these things.. for us these are just "patchings" when you don't know how to behave with some body's conformations.

Sorry.

post #2285 of 12606
Thread Starter 
Are we talking about the gorge or the collar height or both?

Anyway, I like the suit and I love that tailor.
post #2286 of 12606
M, Try Musella for a suit. I think he is going to NY to visit clients. His clothes look more refined than Solito and Steed, may or may not be your thing.
post #2287 of 12606
Thread Starter 
I cannot be parted from my drape. Or, in Italian, drappa.
post #2288 of 12606

Please understand that I'm not trying to get you as one of my customer, but our aim is also to educate the personal style. If you are happy with it, then continue that way. 

By the way "drape" is in italian "taglio" or "linea" ;)

post #2289 of 12606
Attempting to make up for yesterday's fail:



better?
post #2290 of 12606
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post #2291 of 12606
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Attempting to make up for yesterday's fail:

better?


I think the jacket demands very sedate items around it. The square is too much and the tie pattern is muted but still, its a pattern and this would have benefited from a solid tie I think. Dark brown or grey solid wool tie would have worked here, and no square or something quieter
post #2292 of 12606
Thread Starter 
o/o's coat shirt and tie work together well, the square does not and the no socks is icky.
post #2293 of 12606
and while we're bashing unbel, I really dislike that shirt collar on you, you need to go a bit higher and longer
post #2294 of 12606
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Attempting to make up for yesterday's fail:

better?

Very retro-looking + dunno if it is because you are craning your neck but it would seem you need a higher shirt collar. The arrangement is generally pleasant and I'd thumb it up in another thread but I am not sure it is in "good taste" to be so 70s referential in a 2012 outfit. PS has a nice colour.
post #2295 of 12606
Thread Starter 
rags has said that he switched shirtmakers and his new shirts, which he has posted, are much better. So the problem has been corrected.
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