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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 933

post #13981 of 14123
^ True. A what not to do tutorial can be helpful from time to time.
post #13982 of 14123
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldog/oldtrix View Post
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yM6nW.jpg
 

 

OK this is exactly my kind of tailoring. 


Edited by stylexchangemtl - 11/3/15 at 11:15am
post #13983 of 14123
















post #13984 of 14123

For me, the strike rate is below 50% in that batch. My favorite is no. 3.

post #13985 of 14123
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

For me, the strike rate is below 50% in that batch. My favorite is no. 3.

Can you give detail on the others?
post #13986 of 14123
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post


Can you give detail on the others?

Not that I was invited to this party, but:

 

1. Shirt isn't timeless good taste. It's very contemporary, and then the moderate gorge and swelled edge on the suit are rather classic. Don't like the mottled tie here.

2. This is my favorite of the lot.

3. Good.

4. Not sure about the peak lapels in an otherwise quite conservative combination, and if that's a satin stripe it's right out for me.

5. Tie is quite '80s. Is this a suit or an odd jacket?

6. Nice tie/jacket, but a softer shoulder would be better, and the shirt collar is not there for me. BD would be better.

7. Nice (unless the tie is satin). But you knew that. This is a good shirt collar.

8. Shirt might be too businesslike for a woolen (or maybe cashmere?) sportcoat and a cashmere (or maybe woolen?) tie. But who's to say, in this photo?

9. I don't like this tie much, and, again, my corny-as-hell Ivy ass would like to see a BD collar.

 

Also, on odd jacket fits, the pants can blow it right up.

post #13987 of 14123
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post

Can you give detail on the others?

Id venture a guess that the shirt in #1 and the lapels in #3 4 are not in good taste for the purposes of this thread. Also, I'm sorry but a tweed odd jacket needs button down collars. For something like fresco I can see pulling off a semi spread, but not with the fabric in #6. I'd argue the paisley tie also needs a button down collar, but that's just me--no styfo orthodoxy to back that up.

You put #2 shirt with #5 tie and #6 jacket and you might have something.
post #13988 of 14123
Quote:
Originally Posted by grade View Post


Id venture a guess that the shirt in #1 and the lapels in #3 are not in good taste for the purposes of this thread. Also, I'm sorry but a tweed odd jacket needs button down collars. For something like fresco I can see pulling off a semi spread, but not with the fabric in #6. I'd argue the paisley tie also needs a button down collar, but that's just me--no styfo orthodoxy to back that up.

You put #2 shirt with #5 tie and #6 jacket and you might have something.


Surely #1 and #3 are the same jacket?

 

And tweed doesn't demand a BD collar, but it does demand a casual-ish shirt. While BD will get you there, so will an un-tethered collar in tattersall, or, controversially, oxford cloth.

post #13989 of 14123
Oops, meant jacket #4.
post #13990 of 14123
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post


Surely #1 and #3 are the same jacket?

And tweed doesn't demand a BD collar, but it does demand a casual-ish shirt. While BD will get you there, so will an un-tethered collar in tattersall, or, controversially, oxford cloth.

So yeah, it demands a casual shirt, as you said. But for me, appropriately casual tattersalls and oxford cloths also need button down collars to be coherent. I admit this is one of my idiosyncrasies, fwiw. smile.gif
post #13991 of 14123
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post

Not that I was invited to this party, but:

1. Shirt isn't timeless good taste. It's very contemporary, and then the moderate gorge and swelled edge on the suit are rather classic. Don't like the mottled tie here.
2. This is my favorite of the lot.
3. Good.
4. Not sure about the peak lapels in an otherwise quite conservative combination, and if that's a satin stripe it's right out for me.
5. Tie is quite '80s. Is this a suit or an odd jacket?
6. Nice tie/jacket, but a softer shoulder would be better, and the shirt collar is not there for me. BD would be better.
7. Nice (unless the tie is satin). But you knew that. This is a good shirt collar.
8. Shirt might be too businesslike for a woolen (or maybe cashmere?) sportcoat and a cashmere (or maybe woolen?) tie. But who's to say, in this photo?
9. I don't like this tie much, and, again, my corny-as-hell Ivy ass would like to see a BD collar.

Also, on odd jacket fits, the pants can blow it right up.

Thanks for the feedback. Fully agree on the shirt with the tweed being inappropriate. For what it's worth, that's the only photo that didn't make it out of the house. I changed out of it in favor of the shirt in #2 as I recall, but didn't retake the photo.

No satin ties in my closet, just the lighting. #1 is cotton flannel herringbone, #2 is linen, #3 is linen, #4 is silk, #5 is ancient madder, #6 is 50/50 wool/silk, #7 is silk basket-weave (hard to see), #8 is wool, and #9 is cotton.

The beige sportcoats are hopsack for the coarser one, and cotton for the smoother one.

All are odd jackets except for the peak lapelled grey one, and the gray one in #5 is herringbone lambswool, so has a nice flannel-like nap. #8 is camel hair herringbone, that looks solid at more than a few feet away.

I can see how the paisley in #5 is a bit out dated, but it is the first ancient madder I ever owned, and it's a good quality one from Robert Talbott, so I won't be getting rid of it.

Sounds like the shirts just need to be swapped out for more optimal matching for the most part.

I do disagree on the peak lapels being poor taste. To me they are just different.

Interestingly, Vox's blog posted a picture of Cary Grant and Jimmy Stewart both in single breasted peak lapel suits today. Granted, they are a bit lower and wider...


Edited by MoneyWellSpent - 11/5/15 at 8:03pm
post #13992 of 14123
Quote:
Originally Posted by grade View Post

Id venture a guess that the shirt in #1 and the lapels in #3 4 are not in good taste for the purposes of this thread. Also, I'm sorry but a tweed odd jacket needs button down collars. For something like fresco I can see pulling off a semi spread, but not with the fabric in #6. I'd argue the paisley tie also needs a button down collar, but that's just me--no styfo orthodoxy to back that up.

You put #2 shirt with #5 tie and #6 jacket and you might have something.

I would have thought the shirt in #1 would be fine in a blazer context. Certainly not with a suit.
post #13993 of 14123
Meant to include this one earlier. Hopsack again, with linen/silk blend tie. Tie is a brown ground (with a little black), and the color in the pattern that looks purple is actually a light blue that doesn't photograph well.

post #13994 of 14123

Aw, dude, no. Not sportcoats. That glen plaid is just not a jacketing. And I'm not convinced about the gray flannel herringbone.

 

I like madder paisley, but that pattern cries out for a vest or a sweater or something to hide behind a little.

 

Peak lapels on a single-breasted don't strike me as automatically beyond the pale.

 

And @grade, I live in idiosyncratic clothes (in colloquial terms, I dress funny). But I'm both broader (in some ways) and narrower (in others) than what I'd call "good taste."

post #13995 of 14123
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post

Aw, dude, no. Not sportcoats. That glen plaid is just not a jacketing. And I'm not convinced about the gray flannel herringbone.

I like madder paisley, but that pattern cries out for a vest or a sweater or something to hide behind a little.

Peak lapels on a single-breasted don't strike me as automatically beyond the pale.

And @grade
, I live in idiosyncratic clothes (in colloquial terms, I dress funny). But I'm both broader (in some ways) and narrower (in others) than what I'd call "good taste."

Yeah, I've know that the glen plaid is walking the line on being an odd jacket, and I know that this thread falls to the camp that it can't be. I don't think it's quite that cut and dry. I wear it as an odd jacket with more formal accessories, as can be seen in the picture. So I'm not trying to make it "country."

The grey herringbone, however, is a "staple" odd jacket, no?
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