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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 10

post #136 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post

oldog
I don't mind it but the solid silk square in red betrays the 11th commandant of taste - thall shall not wear solid silk squares other than white (or cream!)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I never said I was opposed to solid silk squares. That's Nay's unprincipled war.

I guess it is a war since there's a commandant involved. But that may be a typo. If the intended word is commandment, then the rule is based in religion and, therefore, highly principled. I must say, however, that I am unfamiliar with the 11th commandment as I get the Word from the Old Testament, otherwise known as Apparel Arts. There, solid silk squares are blessed, e.g.:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
solidsquare1.gifsolidsquare2.jpgsolidsquare10.jpgsolidsquare11.jpgsolidsquare4.jpgsolidsquare6.jpgsolidsquare7.pngsolidsquare9.jpg
post #137 of 13401
gdl is always well turned out. I find his combos simultaneously sedate and surprising.

smaller and more discreet patterns seem to be a safe path to 'good taste' at least for me. as one who doesn't have a huge wardrobe of shirts/ties, I tend to go for small patterns that sorta look solid. it's not really adventurous or creative, but I know I won't totally blunder too bad by mixing patterns.

also, whnay, you left a sleeve button undone. devil.gif j/k
post #138 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Gdl, 1 and 6 are the best in my judgment, with the caveat that I think you really need to change-up the square. Do you generally tend toward small, neat patterns? The small scale tends to be all over your outfits, particularly in your ties and squares. I would go larger on one or the other, and vary the motifs between them more, too.

Yes, my squares are generally either plain (often beige), small-scale patterns (ginghams, dogtooth, dots, etc..) or moghul-like. Where we diverge here is that I do not subscribe to the different-scale theory between tie and square. I believe that guideline only applies to juxtaposed items (shirt/tie, shirt/coat, coat/square) where this can have a jarring visual effect. To the contrary, I like similar scale patterns that are broken by a different one (see Biz.1. and Biz caz.2. for examples). I also like wearing large motif moghuls with a patterned/striped tie. Both approaches work for me - which should come as no surprise since that's what I decide to do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

I particularly don't like nine. Brown tie and brown square?

Yeah I agree that one was far from ideal
post #139 of 13401
Thread Starter 
Cpt @ 113

First pic: not feeling this. Contrast this with the awesome Barbera pic of a light jacket with dark trou in another thread. Possibly if the pants were darker or the jacket lighter this would work. As it is, they are both medium hued for what they are and it doesn’t work. As ever, a dark blue tie would be better and might save the situation. The tie you have does not contrast enough. The figures look matchy and the ground is too close. It’s an OK attempt at 3-pattern combo but a solid tie would be better.

Second pic: kind of a Mad Men aesthetic here. I really don’t like white shirts with odd jackets, except in the case of a blazer worn at night. With gray, no. Blue shirt instantly solves that problem. The tie is great.

Third pic: it’s fine. Push the square down a tad. A darker tie would be better. Nothing wrong here though.

Gdl’s mega-post:

1. Don’t like the square, everything else is good.
2. What color are the stripes in the shirt? If burg, bad. If blue, good.
3. Very good.
4. Tie does not move me, I don’t like geometric prints. Colors are nice.
5. Not crazy about the tie but overall it’s nice
6. Very good except for that damned square (again)
7. Wretched jacquard shirting; tie and suit a bit close in tone, make the suit light gray and it’s great.
8. Good
9. Tie & square too matchy.
10. Good

I like all the biz-cas pics, especially the last jacket, which is gorgeous.

Nay @ 129: better. Really good actually. But the square doesn’t work. I would reserve that square for combos that are otherwise super-sedate and that need some pop. As it is, you already have plenty of interest, a white square would be better. Button your goddamned sleeve.

Levi May @ 135: Colors and patterns are fine. Push down your square to show less. Your shirt collar is not working for you. Looks too tight and the points are not long enough. That’s a high collar band, which is nice, but the points need to be long enough to reach down and touch your clavicle.

Unbelragazzo @ 136: But for the sucky square, everything is nice. Foo will tell you it’s too boring, but it is in good taste.
post #140 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

OK, I'll play...

This is boring, but in good taste.
post #141 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

like it better here except for the parrot in your chest pocket.

Yeah, shirt and tie are already pretty amped up, so the square pushes the whole toward the garish.

Agree with the gdl love. Even when he's wearing something I wouldn't, I usually appreciate what he's doing.
post #142 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Unbelragazzo @ 136: But for the sucky square, everything is nice. Foo will tell you it’s too boring, but it is in good taste.

Sucky because of the fold or just sucky? I think the fold is shitty in that pic, but I still like the square. Since you didn't spank me too hard, here are a few more, the first featuring the sucky square, and some more adventurous pieces, perhaps not in good taste.



post #143 of 13401
^^

I don't like the first two ties and a cream jacket is hard to pull off.

I found some old pics (with dreaded pocket squares eek.gif), man I have gained a lot of weight frown.gif

P1010772.jpg

P1010767.jpg

P1000345.jpg

edited.jpg

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P1080765.jpg

087.jpg
post #144 of 13401
Since gdl opened up the door for casual tailored outfits, I'll offer this one. I'm purposefully not posting tweedy-patterned-coat-with-gray-pants-and-light-blue-shirt-and-solid-navy-tie pics or navy-or-gray-business-suit-with-blue-solid-or-subtly-patterned-shirt-and-soporific-navy-business-tie pics because we all know they're tasteful. I'm more interested in how far we can push past safe before we diverge from tasteful, which is why Parker's comment about gdl being both sedate and unexpected rings true as to what makes his outfits exceptionally good.



Detail:
post #145 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

This is boring, but in good taste.

It's safe but I like it. I really like dark maroon/burgundy ties. What type of square would you have used instead?
post #146 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post

More of a distant shot - still blah?
lOTRAl.jpg
I am sympathetic. Sometimes, I forget to button the buttons on my fly.
post #147 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

It's safe but I like it. I really like dark maroon/burgundy ties. What type of square would you have used instead?

Oh, I was just echoing Manton's prediction of what I would say. I don't think I'd necessarily change anything, though I'd like to see pattern at leas on one more element. Triple solids bug me.
post #148 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

I thought I kinda said that, I do put in time into thinking about what goes in the closet and trying to put together a cohesive wardrobe (not always successful) so that I don't have to think about it once I grab something. So I guess what I am saying is I think a lot about the process of buying things but very little about the process of wearing them. I grab a jacket, shirt, tie and pants and can't recall when I have gone back to the closet to change something. Obviously, every outfit has not been a home run. I don't fuss with tie knots, making sure things are perfectly pressed etc.
You don't spend a ton of time in front of a mirror I would guess.

This plus eleventy-billion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

It's like driving stick. It becomes easier and more natural over time, but you'd be a fool to stop thinking about it altogether.
I start by picking my suit (or jacket) for the day. That choice is what drives all the others. Then I pick a shirt. Between the two, I have no trouble finding a pair with enough variance in scale and which will go together color-wise. The only thing that might be lacking is contrast variance (say between a navy blue suit and a dark blue bengal stripe shirt). Still, that's no problem since i can alway "fill in the gap" with my square or tie. Thus, I could probably pick my shirt blind.
Once the shirt and suit are picked, I think about where I can add some variance in texture, contrast, color, etc., or fill in the space where I already have two extremes present. That dictates the tie or square I pick. Which I start with is a matter of whim. Doesn't really matter. Whatever one fails to do, I use the other for. Done.
By the time I've gotten to the end, there is likely enough balanced variance across the board. If not, I re-think the square or tie. I never go back and change the shirt or suit. They are never the offending agents, and are the hardest to switch. 99% of the time, if I switch out anything, it is the pocket square. The other 1% of the time, it's the tie.
The whole decision process takes maybe 15 seconds.

Interesting -- I start with the trousers (which dictate socks), then shirt, then tie, then coat and finally shoes. Obviously suits mean step 1 is also step 4.
post #149 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Like Ed said, #1 coat is a tough task, and this doesn't overcome that difficulty. I don't like the tie at all. #2 would be be fine with a regular spread collar, sufficiently high with longer points and the right amount of tie space. #3 tie looks too business-y to me (better for a worsted wool suit), and I don't like the pocket square fold. Shirt collar is ok but bland. Very nice colors though, and I like the cloth on the shirt and suit.

Your only picture from the first post is very nice in a safe way.
post #150 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by eg1 View Post

Interesting -- I start with the trousers (which dictate socks), then shirt, then tie, then coat and finally shoes. Obviously suits mean step 1 is also step 4.

Well, I think it's key to "lock down" at least one element. For me, and it seems for many, this is the shirt. Each of my shirts is wearable with pretty much any jacket or suit I can throw at it.

I do the same with odd trousers. Light grey is infinitely matchable, as long as the cloth is season appropriate.
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