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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 809

post #12121 of 13401
not sure if disheveled or steezy. confused.gif
post #12122 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

Clags have you got your coat off BnTailor yet? Apart from their silly tie dicks and clip on braces, they cut some very nice stuff.

Not yet. Having a third fitting on Friday next week (I think it'll be a forward fitting). Pants may be done though.
post #12123 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post




No collar stays can be cool but you have to do it right. The collar should be convex.

Like so

The collar band is too low on Pliny's shirt and the collar ends up concave.

Proper respect for the zero tie space though.

 

But the shape on the latter pic is both. Or like a "S-shape". I never got my collars to be that way, they always ended up like in the first pic - I didn't like that, because even the longest pointed collars I have never reached under the lapel. Now I iron my collars a certain way to achieve that S-shape - hence no collar stays.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Not yet. Having a third fitting on Friday next week (I think it'll be a forward fitting). Pants may be done though.

 

Have you ever found out if and in what way they're connected to Liverano?

post #12124 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stugotes View Post
 

Have you ever found out if and in what way they're connected to Liverano?

Outside of having met him a few times, there is no connection. It's an unusual blend of influences. They have backwards facing shoulder seams (which is something associated with A&S, right?) with Neapolitan shoulders and a Florentine cut (assuming Liverano is representative of a Florentine cut)

post #12125 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post



comments welcome, thank you

I find it very creative. It has a distinct edge, that is orchestrated quite tactfully.
post #12126 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

yrunases.jpg

The ideals of Regency in the 21st century. You capture a timeless purity in style.
post #12127 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post





This is lovely. It takes great technique to exercise such keen harmony. Do you think a pocket square that was lighter, warmer/ softer would bring greater harmony to the rest of this well cultivated outfit?
post #12128 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post
 


I tend to agree.

 

Is that a suit or a sportcoat?

SC

 

Quote:   Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Originally Posted by Tibor View Post


This is lovely. It takes great technique to exercise such keen harmony. Do you think a pocket square that was lighter, warmer/ softer would bring greater harmony to the rest of this well cultivated outfit?

 

not sure about lighter or softer.. That square does an ok job of filling the contrast gap between jacket and tie  IMO  + reasonable variation in pattern density, but agree, shades of gold and blue may have been more of a color complement than lemon  and lite green

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibor View Post


I find it very creative. It has a distinct edge, that is orchestrated quite tactfully.

 

 

Thanks Tibor-  kind of u to say so :satisfied: .  Can't take full credit tho-

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

In answer to the question, this is what you wear when you meet Tom Wolfe for lunch. Suit = wool fresco, shirt = linen cotton, tie = pure linen, square = silk, socks = cotton lisle, shoes = calf.

post #12129 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibor View Post

The ideals of Regency in the 21st century. You capture a timeless purity in style.

why thanks!
post #12130 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post
 


I tend to agree.

 

Is that a suit or a sportcoat?

SC

 

Quote:   Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Originally Posted by Tibor View Post


This is lovely. It takes great technique to exercise such keen harmony. Do you think a pocket square that was lighter, warmer/ softer would bring greater harmony to the rest of this well cultivated outfit?

 

not sure about lighter or softer.. That square does an ok job of filling the contrast gap between jacket and tie  IMO  + reasonable variation in pattern density, but agree, shades of gold and blue may have been more of a color complement than lemon  and lite green

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibor View Post


I find it very creative. It has a distinct edge, that is orchestrated quite tactfully.

 

 

Thanks Tibor-  kind of u to say so :satisfied: .  Can't take full credit tho-

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

In answer to the question, this is what you wear when you meet Tom Wolfe for lunch. Suit = wool fresco, shirt = linen cotton, tie = pure linen, square = silk, socks = cotton lisle, shoes = calf.

 

I like yours better.

post #12131 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibor View Post

I find it very creative. It has a distinct edge, that is orchestrated quite tactfully.

Collar looks limp. Tie dimple off center.
post #12132 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stugotes View Post

But the shape on the latter pic is both. Or like a "S-shape". I never got my collars to be that way, they always ended up like in the first pic - I didn't like that, because even the longest pointed collars I have never reached under the lapel. Now I iron my collars a certain way to achieve that S-shape - hence no collar stays.

I have a tough time imagining how that would work but I guess you might just be more handy with an iron (and copious amounts of starch) than I am.

The collar points have to be fairly long and the collar band quite high for the no-collar stay look to work. You usually only get that with bespoke.
post #12133 of 13401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post


I have a tough time imagining how that would work but I guess you might just be more handy with an iron (and copious amounts of starch) than I am.

The collar points have to be fairly long and the collar band quite high for the no-collar stay look to work. You usually only get that with bespoke.

 

Yes, I have my shirts made with the biggest (= longest points) collar, but not unusually high.

 

I just wash them, let them hang dry and then iron, no use of any starch. I just tried out the way of ironing the collar I described and had it figured out quite fast and I wouldn't say I'm an ironing expert :satisfied: I will post pictures if you're interested in how that "technique" works out.

post #12134 of 13401

Tried to fix the collar issues mentioned above

post #12135 of 13401
First signs of spring in NYC prompted me to dust off the linen. Suit is W. Bill linen, shirt is linen/cotton - both are from Frank. Tie is Vanda. Second picture is of poor quality but gives a bit of a sense for the silhouette.



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