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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 804

post #12046 of 12603
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

just would like to note, if people are only supposed to post their absolute best, and most peoples best may not even "qualify" for this thread, and the OG posters continue not to post fits, then yes this thread will surely die soon.

An honorable death is better than a meaningless life.
post #12047 of 12603
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

I struggle to reconcile SF's insistence on loud sportcoats with its insistence that sobriety is the prerequisite for good taste.
I'm not sure there is a contradiction.
post #12048 of 12603
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I'm not sure there is a contradiction.

Sportcoats can be a much purer expression of individual taste than sedate dark suit and tie combos. A true test of good taste, in many cases. But this thread seems uncomfortable with them, for reasons that escape me, just as single-minded insistence on loud sportcoats and rustic cloths escapes me.

Also, you should go into that tobacco fresco thread and tell them what a mistake it is. As a suit, I mean.
post #12049 of 12603
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

An honorable death is better than a meaningless life.

yes, but trying to continue a meaningful life would be even better no?
post #12050 of 12603
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

Sportcoats can be a much purer expression of individual taste than sedate dark suit and tie combos. A true test of good taste, in many cases. But this thread seems uncomfortable with them, for reasons that escape me, just as single-minded insistence on loud sportcoats and rustic cloths escapes me.

Also, you should go into that tobacco fresco thread and tell them what a mistake it is. As a suit, I mean.

Well, hmmm.

So, these thoughts are unformed but not unresponsive.

First is the obvious point about context. Suits are for work and coats for play. Very broadly speaking. So, it makes sense that the former should be more sedate than the latter. There is a place for loud suits but it's typically not in a corporate office.

Second, there is nothing wrong with quieter jackets. I reach for plain blue a lot of the time. Another go-to is brown herringbone which looks solid from 20 feet. Donegals are another example of classic coats on the quiet end. What I don't like are "neither fish nor fowl" cloths: the faux luxe super smooth jacektings with overly subtle patterns, but too busy to be suitings, that dominate RTW high end jacketings.

Third, I do think it's necessary for jacketings to have some texture, and all the more important when it's a solid color.
post #12051 of 12603
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post


Also, you should go into that tobacco fresco thread and tell them what a mistake it is. As a suit, I mean.

While I concede that brown linen looks better than brown fresco, I think brown fresco is a reasonable compromise for the sake of easier maintenance and cooler wear. Is your position that brown fresco is such an abomination that compromise is unacceptable?
post #12052 of 12603
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Well, hmmm.

So, these thoughts are unformed but not unresponsive.

First is the obvious point about context. Suits are for work and coats for play. Very broadly speaking. So, it makes sense that the former should be more sedate than the latter. There is a place for loud suits but it's typically not in a corporate office.

Sure, but this isn't the CBD thread. My point is that the Good Taste thread seems preoccupied with suits in an age when the majority of men don't wear suits. That's odd. There's nothing inherently more tasteful in wearing a suit than a sportcoat, especially if a suit isn't appropriate for the occasion.
Quote:
Second, there is nothing wrong with quieter jackets. I reach for plain blue a lot of the time. Another go-to is brown herringbone which looks solid from 20 feet. Donegals are another example of classic coats on the quiet end. What I don't like are "neither fish nor fowl" cloths: the faux luxe super smooth jacektings with overly subtle patterns, but too busy to be suitings, that dominate RTW high end jacketings.

Third, I do think it's necessary for jacketings to have some texture, and all the more important when it's a solid color.

Agree that it's important for a sportcoat not to look too suity, but I think SF tends to take that to unnecessary extremes. It's pretty easy to tell, most of the time, when you know what to look for. I'm sure in 1935 guys didn't want others to think they were trying to pass off their only suit coat as a sportcoat, but these days even having the suit borders on the unusual.
post #12053 of 12603
Thread Starter 
speculative, but even factoring in the decline of the suit, there are probably multiple times more men who wear a suit every day or most days than who wear a jacket. So, that's probably the reason why the thread has more suits.
post #12054 of 12603
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

While I concede that brown linen looks better than brown fresco, I think brown fresco is a reasonable compromise for the sake of easier maintenance and cooler wear. Is your position that brown fresco is such an abomination that compromise is unacceptable?

I almost hate to tackle this as I preach appreciating diversity, but I was taught, growing up, that that color is inappropriate for a worsted suit. This too may be a holdover from the days of smaller wardrobes, when a fellow's only suit might be the wrong suit, but that shade of solid dark brown was the mark of a guy who didn't know better. It's one of my strongest clothing prejudices, for right or wrong.

Setting that aside, it strikes me as an odd beast. It's too brown for business, too brown for stylish casual, too smooth and unrumpled to be dégagé. It's a business suit that's all wrong for business, yet too timid to leave the office.
post #12055 of 12603
Let me start with the disclaimer that just because the Italians or Brits do it, it doesn't make it in good taste. Good, glad that's out of the way!

That said, my experience has been that Brits favor the bold, tweedy patterns for their odd jackets that are most relished on this board while Italians (particularly Milanese) favor much more subdued checks and plaids in smoother cloths paired with grey (often charcoal, perish the thought) trousers.

I'm not sure one is better or more tasteful than the other and as with most things, it's in the execution. I have swung back and forth and have come to believe that most who wear odd jackets and trousers as a stand in for a suit will usually tilt toward the Milanese approach while those whose aim is less formal will swing the British way.

As an aside, it's kind of amusing that Nirvana around here seems to be British style cloths with soft Italian tailoring...anyway I digress.
post #12056 of 12603
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

speculative, but even factoring in the decline of the suit, there are probably multiple times more men who wear a suit every day or most days than who wear a jacket. So, that's probably the reason why the thread has more suits.

Maybe I'm remembering wrong, but I recall whole conversations about whether sportcoats are even welcome here. Which strikes me as odd, considering how many Whnay. has posted. Personally, I'd like to see the boundaries of good taste in tailored clothing explored as fully as possible.
post #12057 of 12603
Quote:
Originally Posted by aportnoy View Post

Let me start with the disclaimer that just because the Italians or Brits do it, it doesn't make it in good taste. Good, glad that's out of the way!

That said, my experience has been that Brits favor the bold, tweedy patterns for their odd jackets that are most relished on this board while Italians (particularly Milanese) favor much more subdued checks and plaids in smoother cloths paired with grey (often charcoal, perish the thought) trousers.

Do you think this is still the case in the UK? Or is it an iGent idyll, yearning for the days of tweed-suited lords overseeing their country estates? The stuff I see on SF is often much louder the typical gear I see IRL, at least on those not sporting other markers of a forum poster/fashion follower.
post #12058 of 12603
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

Do you think this is still the case in the UK? Or is it an iGent idyll, yearning for the days of tweed-suited lords overseeing their country estates? The stuff I see on SF is often much louder the typical gear I see IRL, at least on those not sporting other markers of a forum poster/fashion follower.

I think you're right about that...It's a days-gone-by thing at least based on what I've seen in London on my latest visits. It's probably also perpetuated by the fondness for boldness of many English RTW makers like Paul Smith, Bowtang and even Turnbull, to a certain extent.
post #12059 of 12603
Loud tweed is uncommon in the UK in my experience, even amongst the landed classes. Dull brown with a subtle red overcheck is probably the one I see the most. Flick through here http://lookatmyfuckingredtrousers.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Toff for a reasonably representative sample of the sort of tweed jacket worn by country toffs these days.
post #12060 of 12603
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

One of my favorites. I
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