Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF AUG 24, 2015 Last post on 8/29/15 at 4:46pm in Classic Menswear
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF JUL 6, 2015 Last post on 7/12/15 at 5:06pm in Classic Menswear
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF APR 20, 2015 Last post on 4/26/15 at 5:41pm in Classic Menswear
- HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) Last post on Today at 12:16 am in Classic Menswear
- Noodles' Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) Last post on Yesterday at 10:19 pm in Classic Menswear
How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?
Last edited: 5/16/13
- What Should I Ask My Groomsmen to Wear?Last edited: 9/2/13
- How to Build an Amazing Work Wardrobe for $1200Last edited: 11/24/15
- Deals of the Week: October 5th, 2015Last edited: 10/6/15
- Fall Styles for the Tailored ManLast edited: 10/14/15
- The Armoury
- Buttons 'n' Threads
- David Fin
- David Reeves Bespoke
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- Falcon Garments
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- Gordon Yao, Hong Kong
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Carter Neckwear
- H.N. White
- Howard Yount
- John Elliott + Co
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- M Classic 101
- Meermin Mallorca
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- Oak Room
- Paul Evans
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Ring Jacket
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Temple of jawnz
- Uncle Otis
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Wrong Weather
- Wurkin Stiffs
- Yellow Hook Necktie
whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 783
Styleforum Top Pickspost #11732 of 139961/9/14 at 7:10ampost #11733 of 139961/9/14 at 7:10ampost #11734 of 139961/9/14 at 7:10amThread Starterpost #11735 of 139961/9/14 at 7:19amQuote:Quote:post #11736 of 139961/9/14 at 7:29amThanks for the feedback. Local tailor who I met through a church connection. He says he spent some time at Davies and Son years ago, but I have no way of knowing whether that's true.
The button point is two inches above my navel, and slightly higher than the first suit (.75"). Looking at the pics, I think I shouldn't have asked him to raise it. He says my arms and legs are relatively long compared to a short torso.
There's too much jacket below the top button. I can't move the button now, but I think I'll have him shape the quarters slightly to compensate and then have the button point lowered for the next one.post #11737 of 139961/9/14 at 10:28amThis is an interesting mix of details. The fronts are formed from the geometry of the pattern used. The shoulder is crooked and the fronts are falling in a bit of an open line. Sort of an old school default English styling. Not sure if you reshaped the front edges below the bottom button if you would maintain an homogeneous look. Your original lower button position would be better than the higher position used here. 3/4" at the buttoning point is a mile.
The proportion of the shoulder/chest/waist is right on the line of making you look rounder or stocky. I think I would extend the shoulder a small amount to broaden the upper body and look more balanced with the lapel. The seam of the sleeve and shoulder looks too vertical. The drape could be tweaked a bit.
This is a clear example of the way English cutting systems place the inseam of the sleeve. The seam is way out over your knuckles and causing this ^ shape at the hem of the sleeve. This drives me nuts! I think it is the proportion of the under sleeve to the top sleeve they use. Sleeves look like they hang a touch to the front.
Not to be all negative, it's a pretty clean jacket. It definitely has an English pedigree of styling. Don't try to make it look Italian.post #11738 of 139961/9/14 at 10:47am
Thanks Despos. I'll take your advice to him. I should not have asked him to raise the button point, oh well. I noticed the sleeve seam v too and thought that would be easy to clean into a straight line, but I hadn't considered widening the shoulders. I think that would be more flattering since I am stocky. You say the sleeves hang to the front: is that why the inside of the sleeve hugs my wrist and the outside of the sleeve is well away?
Thanks for the insight.post #11739 of 139961/9/14 at 12:02pmYes, I noticed what you are experiencing about the sleeve. The sleeve hem is easy to correct at the hem but the issue reflects what is going on at the top of the sleeve. The way it is cut and balanced to the armhole and then sewn into the armhole.
Think we are on the same page about what aesthetic/silhouette you are looking for.post #11740 of 139961/9/14 at 1:37pmpost #11741 of 139961/9/14 at 1:41pmQuote:
It would be more flattering if the sleeve seam and the break line of the lapel (the edge of the lapel against his shirt) were somewhat more parallel. To my eye at least
I Love Lucy is on the tube right now. Man, Ricky haz the drape!post #11742 of 139961/9/14 at 1:45pmpost #11743 of 139961/9/14 at 3:37pmpost #11744 of 139961/9/14 at 4:18pmQuote:
Had your eye exam lately?Quote:
Ricky haz it, teh drape!
- whnay.'s good taste thread
- What Should I Ask My Groomsmen to Wear?
- › John Elliott + Co - official affiliate thread 10 seconds ago
- › Official Sales Alert thread 37 seconds ago
- › Skoaktiebolaget - Carmina, EG, GG, Bonafe, Saint Crispin's -... 59 seconds ago
- › Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc... 1 minute ago
- › Pie? Or Cake? A Poll 2 minutes ago
- › The Suits of Spectre (2015), the latest Bond film 3 minutes ago
- › The Official Wine Thread 4 minutes ago
- › The Ultimate Toronto Thread 4 minutes ago
- › Ongoing Bespoke Projects 5 minutes ago
- › ***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing,... 7 minutes ago
- › Alden Snuff Suede Flex-Welt Chukka Boot by mediahound
- › Alden Indy Boot 405 by Beancounter Tom
- › Alden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Chukka by mediahound
- › Berlin & Son - Heritage Oxford by Mike87
- › Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro Auto by Mrvaerk
- › Human Scales Braided Dark Brown Belt by Mrvaerk
- › Human Scales Carlos Red Stripe Sweater by Mrvaerk
- › Carmina for Epaulet Grey Suede Steinbeck Boot by Patek
- › Human Scales Denny Suede Double Monkstraps by Mrvaerk
- › Brathwait - The classic slim wrist watch by Mrvaerk
- › The Huckberry x Styleforum Holiday Gift Guide
- › In Passing: Style on the Streets of Toronto
- › Black Friday 2015: The Styleforum Sales List
- › How to Build an Amazing Work Wardrobe for $1200
- › Gifts for the Stylish Man
- › The Best of The Proper Kit in N.Y.C.
- › On the Road: Shop the Styleforum x No Man...
- › On the Road: Styleforum x No Man Walks Alone
- › An Interview with G. Bruce Boyer
- › The 2015 Buyer's Guide: Accessories