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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 783

post #11731 of 13589
'Nother new suit. Just finished. Something seems wrong about the quarters. Too closed maybe? I'm thinking about taking it back and ask him to shape the quarters a little more and maybe .5 inch shorter too. Would appreciate some opinions on that.

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post #11732 of 13589
They don't look too closed to me. I suspect the photo is distorting the proportions, but if it's accurate, I would say that the buttoning point is a bit high.
post #11733 of 13589
Don't shorten it. The quarters could be shaped below the second button, but that is personal preference really. Looks nice. Who did it?
post #11734 of 13589
Thread Starter 
tdude, the main issue to my eye is that the button point appears too high.
post #11735 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

They don't look too closed to me. I suspect the photo is distorting the proportions, but if it's accurate, I would say that the buttoning point is a bit high.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

tdude, the main issue to my eye is that the button point appears too high.

bigstar[1].gif
post #11736 of 13589
Thanks for the feedback. Local tailor who I met through a church connection. He says he spent some time at Davies and Son years ago, but I have no way of knowing whether that's true.

The button point is two inches above my navel, and slightly higher than the first suit (.75"). Looking at the pics, I think I shouldn't have asked him to raise it. He says my arms and legs are relatively long compared to a short torso.

There's too much jacket below the top button. I can't move the button now, but I think I'll have him shape the quarters slightly to compensate and then have the button point lowered for the next one.
post #11737 of 13589
This is an interesting mix of details. The fronts are formed from the geometry of the pattern used. The shoulder is crooked and the fronts are falling in a bit of an open line. Sort of an old school default English styling. Not sure if you reshaped the front edges below the bottom button if you would maintain an homogeneous look. Your original lower button position would be better than the higher position used here. 3/4" at the buttoning point is a mile.

The proportion of the shoulder/chest/waist is right on the line of making you look rounder or stocky. I think I would extend the shoulder a small amount to broaden the upper body and look more balanced with the lapel. The seam of the sleeve and shoulder looks too vertical. The drape could be tweaked a bit.

This is a clear example of the way English cutting systems place the inseam of the sleeve. The seam is way out over your knuckles and causing this ^ shape at the hem of the sleeve. This drives me nuts! I think it is the proportion of the under sleeve to the top sleeve they use. Sleeves look like they hang a touch to the front.

Not to be all negative, it's a pretty clean jacket. It definitely has an English pedigree of styling. Don't try to make it look Italian.
post #11738 of 13589

Thanks Despos.  I'll take your advice to him.  I should not have asked him to raise the button point, oh well.  I noticed the sleeve seam v too and thought that would be easy to clean into a straight line, but I hadn't considered widening the shoulders.  I think that would be more flattering since I am stocky.  You say the sleeves hang to the front: is that why the inside of the sleeve hugs my wrist and the outside of the sleeve is well away?

 

Thanks for the insight.

post #11739 of 13589
Yes, I noticed what you are experiencing about the sleeve. The sleeve hem is easy to correct at the hem but the issue reflects what is going on at the top of the sleeve. The way it is cut and balanced to the armhole and then sewn into the armhole.
Think we are on the same page about what aesthetic/silhouette you are looking for.
post #11740 of 13589
I see what despos means about the sleeve seam being too vertical, but it seems to be parallel with the lapel roll. That's a thing, right? Or is it just my eye?
post #11741 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I see what despos means about the sleeve seam being too vertical, but it seems to be parallel with the lapel roll. That's a thing, right? Or is it just my eye?

It would be more flattering if the sleeve seam and the break line of the lapel (the edge of the lapel against his shirt) were somewhat more parallel. To my eye at least

I Love Lucy is on the tube right now. Man, Ricky haz the drape!
post #11742 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post


I Love Lucy is on the tube right now. Man, Ricky haz teh drape!

Corrected for pronunciation.
post #11743 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Teh drape, Ricky has it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Corrected for pronunciation.

Corrected for grammar.
post #11744 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I see what despos means about the sleeve seam being too vertical, but it seems to be parallel with the lapel roll. That's a thing, right? Or is it just my eye?

Had your eye exam lately?

Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Teh drape, Ricky has it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Corrected for pronunciation.

Corrected for grammar.

Ricky haz it, teh drape!
post #11745 of 13589
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday View Post

Working's fine for killing time, but it's a shaky way to make a living.

+1000

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