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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 783post #11732 of 141151/9/14 at 7:10ampost #11733 of 141151/9/14 at 7:10ampost #11734 of 141151/9/14 at 7:10amThread Starterpost #11735 of 141151/9/14 at 7:19amQuote:Quote:post #11736 of 141151/9/14 at 7:29amThanks for the feedback. Local tailor who I met through a church connection. He says he spent some time at Davies and Son years ago, but I have no way of knowing whether that's true.
The button point is two inches above my navel, and slightly higher than the first suit (.75"). Looking at the pics, I think I shouldn't have asked him to raise it. He says my arms and legs are relatively long compared to a short torso.
There's too much jacket below the top button. I can't move the button now, but I think I'll have him shape the quarters slightly to compensate and then have the button point lowered for the next one.post #11737 of 141151/9/14 at 10:28amThis is an interesting mix of details. The fronts are formed from the geometry of the pattern used. The shoulder is crooked and the fronts are falling in a bit of an open line. Sort of an old school default English styling. Not sure if you reshaped the front edges below the bottom button if you would maintain an homogeneous look. Your original lower button position would be better than the higher position used here. 3/4" at the buttoning point is a mile.
The proportion of the shoulder/chest/waist is right on the line of making you look rounder or stocky. I think I would extend the shoulder a small amount to broaden the upper body and look more balanced with the lapel. The seam of the sleeve and shoulder looks too vertical. The drape could be tweaked a bit.
This is a clear example of the way English cutting systems place the inseam of the sleeve. The seam is way out over your knuckles and causing this ^ shape at the hem of the sleeve. This drives me nuts! I think it is the proportion of the under sleeve to the top sleeve they use. Sleeves look like they hang a touch to the front.
Not to be all negative, it's a pretty clean jacket. It definitely has an English pedigree of styling. Don't try to make it look Italian.post #11738 of 141151/9/14 at 10:47am
Thanks Despos. I'll take your advice to him. I should not have asked him to raise the button point, oh well. I noticed the sleeve seam v too and thought that would be easy to clean into a straight line, but I hadn't considered widening the shoulders. I think that would be more flattering since I am stocky. You say the sleeves hang to the front: is that why the inside of the sleeve hugs my wrist and the outside of the sleeve is well away?
Thanks for the insight.post #11739 of 141151/9/14 at 12:02pmYes, I noticed what you are experiencing about the sleeve. The sleeve hem is easy to correct at the hem but the issue reflects what is going on at the top of the sleeve. The way it is cut and balanced to the armhole and then sewn into the armhole.
Think we are on the same page about what aesthetic/silhouette you are looking for.post #11740 of 141151/9/14 at 1:37pmpost #11741 of 141151/9/14 at 1:41pmQuote:
It would be more flattering if the sleeve seam and the break line of the lapel (the edge of the lapel against his shirt) were somewhat more parallel. To my eye at least
I Love Lucy is on the tube right now. Man, Ricky haz the drape!post #11742 of 141151/9/14 at 1:45pmpost #11743 of 141151/9/14 at 3:37pmpost #11744 of 141151/9/14 at 4:18pmQuote:
Had your eye exam lately?Quote:
Ricky haz it, teh drape!post #11745 of 141151/9/14 at 6:11pm
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