Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF AUG 24, 2015 Last post on 5/28/16 at 9:36am in Classic Menswear
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF JUL 6, 2015 Last post on 7/12/15 at 5:06pm in Classic Menswear
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF APR 20, 2015 Last post on 4/26/15 at 5:41pm in Classic Menswear
- HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) Last post on Yesterday at 11:58 pm in Classic Menswear
- Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) Last post on 10/19/16 at 2:44am in Classic Menswear
How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?
Last edited: 5/16/13
- What Should I Ask My Groomsmen to Wear?Last edited: 9/2/13
- Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for Under $800Last edited: 4/26/16
- What to Wear to (Almost) Any WeddingLast edited: 4/25/16
- What shade of grey should my wedding suit be?Last edited: 3/24/16
- Allen Edmonds
- The Armoury
- Batch Mens
- Craftsman Clothing
- David Fin
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- Falcon Garments
- Freemans Sporting Club
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- H. Stockton
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Blake
- H.N. White
- John Elliott
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- Meermin Mallorca
- MILER Menswear
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- Pierpont Leather
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Ring Jacket
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Uncle Otis
- Vanda Fine Clothing
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Yellow Hook Necktie
- Your MadeInItaly
whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 783post #11732 of 141221/9/14 at 7:10ampost #11733 of 141221/9/14 at 7:10ampost #11734 of 141221/9/14 at 7:10amThread Starterpost #11735 of 141221/9/14 at 7:19amQuote:Quote:post #11736 of 141221/9/14 at 7:29amThanks for the feedback. Local tailor who I met through a church connection. He says he spent some time at Davies and Son years ago, but I have no way of knowing whether that's true.
The button point is two inches above my navel, and slightly higher than the first suit (.75"). Looking at the pics, I think I shouldn't have asked him to raise it. He says my arms and legs are relatively long compared to a short torso.
There's too much jacket below the top button. I can't move the button now, but I think I'll have him shape the quarters slightly to compensate and then have the button point lowered for the next one.post #11737 of 141221/9/14 at 10:28amThis is an interesting mix of details. The fronts are formed from the geometry of the pattern used. The shoulder is crooked and the fronts are falling in a bit of an open line. Sort of an old school default English styling. Not sure if you reshaped the front edges below the bottom button if you would maintain an homogeneous look. Your original lower button position would be better than the higher position used here. 3/4" at the buttoning point is a mile.
The proportion of the shoulder/chest/waist is right on the line of making you look rounder or stocky. I think I would extend the shoulder a small amount to broaden the upper body and look more balanced with the lapel. The seam of the sleeve and shoulder looks too vertical. The drape could be tweaked a bit.
This is a clear example of the way English cutting systems place the inseam of the sleeve. The seam is way out over your knuckles and causing this ^ shape at the hem of the sleeve. This drives me nuts! I think it is the proportion of the under sleeve to the top sleeve they use. Sleeves look like they hang a touch to the front.
Not to be all negative, it's a pretty clean jacket. It definitely has an English pedigree of styling. Don't try to make it look Italian.post #11738 of 141221/9/14 at 10:47am
Thanks Despos. I'll take your advice to him. I should not have asked him to raise the button point, oh well. I noticed the sleeve seam v too and thought that would be easy to clean into a straight line, but I hadn't considered widening the shoulders. I think that would be more flattering since I am stocky. You say the sleeves hang to the front: is that why the inside of the sleeve hugs my wrist and the outside of the sleeve is well away?
Thanks for the insight.post #11739 of 141221/9/14 at 12:02pmYes, I noticed what you are experiencing about the sleeve. The sleeve hem is easy to correct at the hem but the issue reflects what is going on at the top of the sleeve. The way it is cut and balanced to the armhole and then sewn into the armhole.
Think we are on the same page about what aesthetic/silhouette you are looking for.post #11740 of 141221/9/14 at 1:37pmpost #11741 of 141221/9/14 at 1:41pmQuote:
It would be more flattering if the sleeve seam and the break line of the lapel (the edge of the lapel against his shirt) were somewhat more parallel. To my eye at least
I Love Lucy is on the tube right now. Man, Ricky haz the drape!post #11742 of 141221/9/14 at 1:45pmpost #11743 of 141221/9/14 at 3:37pmpost #11744 of 141221/9/14 at 4:18pmQuote:
Had your eye exam lately?Quote:
Ricky haz it, teh drape!post #11745 of 141221/9/14 at 6:11pm
- What Should I Ask My Groomsmen to Wear?
- › The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Part II... 1 minute ago
- › Formula 1 - F1 - Current Season Discussion 1 minute ago
- › Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2016 - News, Pictures, Sizing,... 2 minutes ago
- › The Official Alden Thread for 2016 - Share reviews, sizing, advice,... 2 minutes ago
- › Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread. 3 minutes ago
- › J. Crew Slim Bowery 4 minutes ago
- › How many miles did you run today? 8 minutes ago
- › The Walking Dead (AMC) 8 minutes ago
- › Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread 10 minutes ago
- › Herring Shoes - Experiences? 12 minutes ago
- › Allen Edmonds Leeds 2.0 Derby Men's Shoes Size US 10 D Walnut... by Lobster33
- › Dr. Martens Unisex Original 10 Eye Steel Toe Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Chippewa Men's Super Logger Waterproof Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Mosey Life Working Girl Travel Laptop Tote by sprout2
- › Allen Cox Brief trunks by sprout2
- › Sutor Mantellassi Men's C 567 Oxford by sprout2
- › Alden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Longwing by smfdoc
- › Alden Black Shell Cordovan Plain Toe by smfdoc
- › Florsheim Vincent Wingtip Oxford by smfdoc
- › Allen Edmonds Lasalle Dress Shoes by Lobster33
- › Five Menswear Trends for Fall
- › Don’t “Just Buy a New One”,...
- › Why Pay Such A Premium For Sunspel Or James...
- › In the Details: Lucian Föhr
- › A Sunday Drive: Styleforum Spring GMTOs
- › Should I dryclean my jeans, and if not, how...
- › The 5 Most-Hyped Handbags of the Moment
- › Eight Vignettes in Search of a (Wedding) Theme
- › The Kent Wang Cufflink Giveaway
- › Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for...