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whnay.'s good taste thread - Page 718

post #10756 of 12819

Thanks for your thoughts. On the shoes, yeah, I didn't know what I was doing so I went overboard. I haven't decided whether to strip them and start over, or to just wait til it naturally fades. Either way I don't mind wearing them as is. Would just prefer it different.

post #10757 of 12819
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post

As does Vanda and Kent Wang

both excellent suggestions!
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CM - i cant tell from the pic, is the tie navy or black?
post #10758 of 12819
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

CM - i cant tell from the pic, is the tie navy or black?

 

Black

post #10759 of 12819
good answer. smile.gif
post #10760 of 12819
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tropicalist View Post


Actually a pink shirt, green tie combination is not uncommon and works well, but agree the other way round does not work. Color psychology is a very complex subject and related to deepest sexual impulses- evolution predisposes women to like men in shades that make them look large and aggressive (navy, red) and for men to like women in shades that emphasize signs of ovulation - black, pastels with a lot of rouge and lipstick

Coming back to topic, when I was growing up it was not at all uncommon to pair navy trousers with a camel hair serge blazer and navy and gold regimental tie. Do try it. It is an uncommon but beautiful combination with its roots in police and some public school uniforms. Infact if you do have a camel hair blazer, there are precious few trousers it will go with except navy. The same can be said for some exotic tweeds eg in heather and green herringbone, rust etc.


Pink shirt, green tie is great -- but that pink and that green would not be -- and I'm either much too hip or much too square for a green shirt with a pink tie. I don't know if I buy your gendered explanation of color theory, but then again, I could probably talk about gender or color for hours, so I'll skip it. I don't buy anything that tries to explain aesthetics through genetics, though I wouldn't disagree with your point there if it were in cultural terms.

 

I wear my camel jacket with dark green or lake blue moleskins, rust cords, or (gasp) jeans in blue or white. Again, I think it takes a lighter shade of navy. My blue molies are a touch light, but a pair of navy cords I had was a touch dark. Something in the middle is needed. With the combination you're describing, what color shoes would one wear?

 

CM -- the shoes are kind of fly, but the rest of the rig isn't ("fly" isn't a good or bad thing, and could be the opposite of "good taste."). This is absolutely not  "good taste" advice, but if the trousers were darker, the shirt were a really loud Jermyn St kind of thing, and the square were white, the combination would work great with the boots. Also, if your jacket is going to be on the short side, it needs to have a more dramatic cut. A sack this short reads as Thom Browne material (or at least Black Fleece). Even if it had a sort of Neapolitan cut, it would need a smidge more length to look truly flattering. I'm of the opinion that a jacket should, at the shortest, come close to reaching the bottom of the fork of one's trousers.

 

I also think the dramatic contrast with the light gray trousers would be better served with more contrast up top.

post #10761 of 12819

Black ties have been discussed on a couple of threads, none with any really thoughtful folks weighing in. A number of people opined that a black tie was never the optimal look for any given outfit, some folks saying that a black tie was all but needless while others simply argued that a black tie was great for small tie rotations due to its versatility (and it had been established ad nauseum that versatility =/= optimality).

 

Anyway, I like CM's black tie look, and I thought I'd drop this here. Probably not in good taste (can linen with a sheen and patterned pants be in good taste?), but I thought it was an example of a look where black was the optimal choice. Since this is the place to discuss color...

 


(top left is original, several of the other options look ok until yousee the picture full res)

post #10762 of 12819
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMartNJ View Post

A serious question for Manton, Doc and the usual suspects but what is the wisdom on cardigans with SCs or is that a non-starter? I almost exclusively wear a navy jacket with mid-greys or khakis, blue or blue/white stripes shirt and a dark neat or grenadine. I was thinking a tan/natural for grey pants days and grey for khaki pants days.

Is this post a joke? You need to know if it is ok to wear a sweater with a SC? Of course it's ok, better with no tie and a white bd shirt but doable with a tie and stripped shirt although a little busy IMHO.
post #10763 of 12819
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

i dont know i would go that far, but i like F/W fabrics so much more than S/S fabrics. and i like cooler weather much more than warmer.

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From Friday
full fit (Click to show)
eac24478-c878-4454-99de-9d397e044647_zps8e4af5e4.jpg

This is very good. You have come a long way Stitchy.
post #10764 of 12819
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

Continuing experiment in pseudo SF groupthink. Was a cloudy day so picture quality suffered a bit. Thoughts?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





 









Is that a black belt paired with brown shoes? cry.gif
post #10765 of 12819
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

This is very good. You have come a long way Stitchy.

thanks you kindly, Axelman. Nice to see you posting.

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clags, black ties are awesome. period.
post #10766 of 12819
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post
 

CM -- the shoes are kind of fly, but the rest of the rig isn't ("fly" isn't a good or bad thing, and could be the opposite of "good taste."). This is absolutely not  "good taste" advice, but if the trousers were darker, the shirt were a really loud Jermyn St kind of thing, and the square were white, the combination would work great with the boots. Also, if your jacket is going to be on the short side, it needs to have a more dramatic cut. A sack this short reads as Thom Browne material (or at least Black Fleece). Even if it had a sort of Neapolitan cut, it would need a smidge more length to look truly flattering. I'm of the opinion that a jacket should, at the shortest, come close to reaching the bottom of the fork of one's trousers.

 

I also think the dramatic contrast with the light gray trousers would be better served with more contrast up top.

 

The shoes were a gamble. I really like them, but may not have been the best choice for this fit.

post #10767 of 12819
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willin View Post


Is that a black belt paired with brown shoes? cry.gif

 

No.

post #10768 of 12819
Sartoria Vanni Korea had a photo of a good, modern take on the tweed + tie / old British guy look that a some people are attempting with the cooler weather.

(Ignore the square - tie matching)

tumblr_mv5wvtmL5w1s60689o1_1280.jpg

tumblr_mv5wvtmL5w1s60689o2_1280.jpg

I think the key is avoiding an optical illusion shirt - tie pairing. The tie is functionally a solid in that regard to it can go with the busy-ish checked shirt even with the bold (or at least pronounced) windowpane on the jacket.

BTW seems like the Korean tailors are just killin it recently.
post #10769 of 12819
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Black ties have been discussed on a couple of threads, none with any really thoughtful folks weighing in. A number of people opined that a black tie was never the optimal look for any given outfit, some folks saying that a black tie was all but needless while others simply argued that a black tie was great for small tie rotations due to its versatility (and it had been established ad nauseum that versatility =/= optimality).

Anyway, I like CM's black tie look, and I thought I'd drop this here. Probably not in good taste (can linen with a sheen and patterned pants be in good taste?), but I thought it was an example of a look where black was the optimal choice. Since this is the place to discuss color...





(top left is original, several of the other options look ok until yousee the picture full res)

I like black ties. It seems as if the default for a perfectly neutral tie is navy and while a navy tie is rarely a bad idea, when it comes to solids, especially when worn with a dark blue jacket, black adds just a little more visual interest and loses nothing.

I can't imagine versatility being a bad thing in and of itself.

Black ties (sadly) aren't common enough to remotely approach hackneyed.

A repp or (even though I think they're universally tacky I'll include) satin black tie is about as dressy as you can get outside of real formalwear so I'd reserve those for dark suits, usually with a white shirt, white linen square and black oxfords.

A black knit is a way around that limitation. The obvious texture / see-through-ness soften the look considerably. I don't like how grenadines pill as soon as you look at them but I'd put them closer to repp since the texture is less obvious and the overall effect more smooth / shiny.

In that photo, I feel like the jacket is just a little too light / electric blue for a black tie. The trousers look solid and that's a good thing.
post #10770 of 12819
Big C dropping knowledge today.
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